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  #701  
Old 11-07-12, 14:27
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Originally Posted by Ruby60 View Post
I need to rebuild my PowerTap rear wheel. I was sprinting through an intersection and hit a pot hole (didn't see it...) HARD. Rim goes out of round and out of true, AND rim side mildly crushed inward. Since this is my PT wheel I did some work to make it rideable: working judiciously, I tapped out the braking sidewall so it's not too bad, then retrued the wheel, so overall it's not too bad and is rideable. But it's time to rebuild.
This wheel has been in constant use for at least 7 years... maybe 10 years!! Training and racing. I am 98 Kilos (on a good day) and consider myself to be a Crit rider and sprinter. I attribute it's longetivity to the following: 14g, 3X, brass nips, and laced to a 32 hole Velocity Aerohead OC rim.
Ok enough history.
I have a small stock of regular (not OC) Aerohead rims I could use, but I'm leaning towards getting another Aerohead OC rim. I would still build it with 14g straight, 3X and brass nips unless you pros would suggest something other.
So what would your opinion be concerning the OC vs the normal rim, and what spoke tensions would you recommend? ( I use a wheelsmith tensiometer)
Sorry for the long read...
Thanks
Aerohead OC is out of production, but there are still a few 'out there' Replaced by A23 OC, just coming into the system now.

If the older OC worked...also look at DT 440, another OC rim coming into the US.

http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/Ri...440-asymmetric

I think OC is a good idea for you, I would use double butted spokes tho-makes for a more durable wheel altho the last one sounds like it held up just fine.
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  #702  
Old 11-07-12, 17:04
Ruby60 Ruby60 is offline
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Thanks BK.
Just checked the Velocity site... yup, no Aerohead OC's, but as you suggested, the A23 OC's look good. And the DT's... I will definitely check into those...I like the idea of eyeleted rims, although I haven't had any issues with the Aeroheads developing cracks around the holes.
Which rim would be your preference?
Thanks again.

Last edited by Ruby60; 11-07-12 at 18:01.
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  #703  
Old 11-10-12, 03:16
Jukebox Jukebox is offline
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Originally Posted by Ruby60 View Post
Thanks BK.
Just checked the Velocity site... yup, no Aerohead OC's, but as you suggested, the A23 OC's look good. And the DT's... I will definitely check into those...I like the idea of eyeleted rims, although I haven't had any issues with the Aeroheads developing cracks around the holes.
Which rim would be your preference?
Thanks again.
The A23 is wider, which is nice because it spreads the tire out a bit more which helps handling. Eyelets certainly are nice, but as you mentioned Velocity rims are plenty strong without them.

Personally Id go with the A23, but neither is likely to be a bad choice.
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  #704  
Old 11-10-12, 13:44
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Originally Posted by Ruby60 View Post
Thanks BK.
Just checked the Velocity site... yup, no Aerohead OC's, but as you suggested, the A23 OC's look good. And the DT's... I will definitely check into those...I like the idea of eyeleted rims, although I haven't had any issues with the Aeroheads developing cracks around the holes.
Which rim would be your preference?
Thanks again.
I'm a big fan of DT. The roundest, flatest rims I have ever seen in my 27 years of wheelbuilding. I'm not a fanboy of wider rims either. They can make a small difference, I guess, but also create some problems with some frames and forks and aftermarket brakes due to their 23mm width.

I would personally choose the DT 440 for you, OC rear. double butted spokes like DT Comp or Sapim race..brass nipples. 3 cross all around.
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  #705  
Old 11-10-12, 16:37
Ruby60 Ruby60 is offline
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Thanks JB and BK. I'll check with my LBS for rim availability and costs. Will definitely use double butted spokes, brass nips, and 3X.
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  #706  
Old 11-13-12, 10:56
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I would appreciate any thoughts as to what may be the cause of a problem I'm having with a rear wheel. The rim was replaced and re-laced with the same spokes and hub. After around 200km of riding, a pinging sound started to occur when under load (climbing). It's not a high pitched sound but somewhat dull.

Anyway, I went back to the builder and he suggested the spokes may need a drop of oil where they cross (built two cross with DT Aerolite spokes, 24 spokes and Kinlin XR-270 rim). I had checked the spoke tension with my Park gauge and the non-drive side spokes seemed very low (not even registering on the gauge, i.e. zero, although with tyres mounted, while the drive side was between an 11 and 12 which equated to around 100kgf). I mentioned to the builder that the non-drive side spokes seemed to have little tension and he tightened then a little.

I put the wheel back on the bike and oiled the spoke cross-over points and it was fine for another 200km then today the pinging was back. Non-drive side spoke tension is 2-3 on the Park gauge and a few spokes are still close to zero. So, could the pinging be caused by too low spoke tension on the non-drive side? The wheel is still true.
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  #707  
Old 11-13-12, 13:37
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Originally Posted by biker jk View Post
I would appreciate any thoughts as to what may be the cause of a problem I'm having with a rear wheel. The rim was replaced and re-laced with the same spokes and hub. After around 200km of riding, a pinging sound started to occur when under load (climbing). It's not a high pitched sound but somewhat dull.

Anyway, I went back to the builder and he suggested the spokes may need a drop of oil where they cross (built two cross with DT Aerolite spokes, 24 spokes and Kinlin XR-270 rim). I had checked the spoke tension with my Park gauge and the non-drive side spokes seemed very low (not even registering on the gauge, i.e. zero, although with tyres mounted, while the drive side was between an 11 and 12 which equated to around 100kgf). I mentioned to the builder that the non-drive side spokes seemed to have little tension and he tightened then a little.

I put the wheel back on the bike and oiled the spoke cross-over points and it was fine for another 200km then today the pinging was back. Non-drive side spoke tension is 2-3 on the Park gauge and a few spokes are still close to zero. So, could the pinging be caused by too low spoke tension on the non-drive side? The wheel is still true.
Low spoke count, thin spokes, light rim...not surprised it's making some noise. How much do you weigh?

I'd say a beefier spoke on the RH side would help a lot. Say DT Comps or Sapim Race..then thin on the LH side and 110kgf on the RH side
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  #708  
Old 11-13-12, 20:38
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Originally Posted by Bustedknuckle View Post
Low spoke count, thin spokes, light rim...not surprised it's making some noise. How much do you weigh?

I'd say a beefier spoke on the RH side would help a lot. Say DT Comps or Sapim Race..then thin on the LH side and 110kgf on the RH side
I weigh 68kg and the wheel had covered 10000km before the rim was replaced without any pinging or trouble whatsoever. So ca n anyone help?
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  #709  
Old 11-14-12, 01:59
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42x16ss 42x16ss is offline
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I weigh 68kg and the wheel had covered 10000km before the rim was replaced without any pinging or trouble whatsoever. So ca n anyone help?
Wait, you are saying that the wheel was rebuilt with spokes that are 10000km old? That's your problem right there. They will be as flexy as spaghetti!
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  #710  
Old 11-14-12, 04:13
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Wait, you are saying that the wheel was rebuilt with spokes that are 10000km old? That's your problem right there. They will be as flexy as spaghetti!
Really? 10,000km and the spokes will be flexy like spaghetti? You didn't read 100,000km by mistake? The front wheel is as stiff as the day I bought it. The rear remains true but pings. I would like to know if your claim is correct.
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