| General Which tyres for Paris-Roubaix? Whose time trial bike is fastest? Suspension mountain bikes or singlespeeders? Talk equipment here. |

11-07-09, 06:28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: I'm right behind you
Posts: 309
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Single Speed Conversion
Hey all,
I've been thinking of turning my old road bike into a single speed, and was wondering if anyone has any advice/problems with doing this...
The frame is fine, wheels are okay, but the components have had it. Since there's really not much point having two road bikes, i though i'd turn the old one into a single speed.
Is it hard to convert these over?
I plan to buy maybe a 53 tooth track crackset, and 20 tooth rear cog just so it's a good cruising bike (i.e. cadence of 100 = 34kmh, cadence of 50 = 17kmh)..
I assume I will make it a free wheel rather than fixed, which just means once I buy a never brake set and new cables I should be on my way, right?
Oh and I heard that there can be issues with chain tension when converting a road bike to single speed, anyone know about that?
I am pretty useless mechanically (I just ride/race and hope my bike mechanic has got the bike in good condition) so any advice would be helpful on how plausible this is... thanks.
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11-07-09, 07:05
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: MidWest, USA
Posts: 836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
Hey all,
I've been thinking of turning my old road bike into a single speed, and was wondering if anyone has any advice/problems with doing this...
The frame is fine, wheels are okay, but the components have had it. Since there's really not much point having two road bikes, i though i'd turn the old one into a single speed.
Is it hard to convert these over?
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No
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
I plan to buy maybe a 53 tooth track crackset, and 20 tooth rear cog just so it's a good cruising bike (i.e. cadence of 100 = 34kmh, cadence of 50 = 17kmh)..
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I'd stay away from crack if I was you  Don't waste your money on a new crankset, just get a set of single speed chain ring bolts. Most important thing is to get the chainline as straight as possible. And are you using a single cog on the original wheel with a bunch of spacers, or are you going to have an SS wheel built?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
I assume I will make it a free wheel rather than fixed, which just means once I buy a never brake set and new cables I should be on my way, right?
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I never brake either  , but if you need 'em gofer it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
Oh and I heard that there can be issues with chain tension when converting a road bike to single speed, anyone know about that?
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All depends what your rear dropouts look like. Horizontal/vertical? If you are vertical, or semi vert, you'll have a hard time getting proper chain tension. Might have to invest in a chain tensioner like a Surly Singleator, or PAUL Melvin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
I am pretty useless mechanically (I just ride/race and hope my bike mechanic has got the bike in good condition) so any advice would be helpful on how plausible this is... thanks.
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Your mechanic will have a better idea since he can actually see it and put his hands on it. Posting a pic would've helped, but oh well. Good luck.
Last edited by RDV4ROUBAIX; 11-07-09 at 07:13.
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11-07-09, 12:29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: I'm right behind you
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDV4ROUBAIX
I'd stay away from crack if I was you Don't waste your money on a new crankset, just get a set of single speed chain ring bolts. Most important thing is to get the chainline as straight as possible. And are you using a single cog on the original wheel with a bunch of spacers, or are you going to have an SS wheel built?
I never brake either , but if you need 'em gofer it.
All depends what your rear dropouts look like. Horizontal/vertical? If you are vertical, or semi vert, you'll have a hard time getting proper chain tension. Might have to invest in a chain tensioner like a Surly Singleator, or PAUL Melvin.
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...yeh i should really proof-read my posts. Thanks for pointing that out haha, so yeh i'm guessing i meant " crank" and instead of "never" i assume i meant "new" - wow i'm quite surprised at my errors actually haha
About the underline, unsure at this stage about the wheel. Replacing with a single cog and spacers seems logical enough, rather than buying a new wheel.
Thanks for the names of chain tensioners, i'll look into them too, since i am pretty sure the dropouts are semi-vertical
This is just a little project for me, so it sounds like it shouldn't be too hard to get this done, cheers!
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11-07-09, 12:55
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 15
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It's a bit expensive, but well worth it:
White Industries Eno Hub. ~$150.
If you build up a 32 hole 3x wheel with this hub, you're looking at $225-$300.
I was able to build up the wheel myself with some spokes I bought on sale and an inexpensive rim. You might be able to switch the spokes and rim from an old wheel over to the hub if the flange heights and spacing are similar. Then only looking at $150 for hub, maybe $40 labor.
Maybe a bit steep for testing out a single speed, but well worth the investment. The hub will last 10 years. Could build an MTB wheel with it, too if the road doesn't work out for you.
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11-07-09, 13:50
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,280
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I agree with Willy_Voet in regards to the hub. Rather than ****** around with chain tensioners, the eccentric hub from White Industries allows easy adjustment of chain tension for a bike with horizontal dropouts (which I would presume your bike has being a road bike). The added bonus is that if you want to go from freewheel to fixie, then all you have to do is flip the wheel.
I have the White Industries ENO eccentric hub on my two current fixies (commuter/road and MTB), had it on my old commuter which was stolen, and am intending on buying one for this winter's fixie project.
Another hub option recently mentioned on BikeRadar is the SRAM Torpedo Variable Hub which allows you to switch from freewheel to fixed with a turn of a screwdriver rather than flipping the wheel. See http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/catego...e-hub-09-34541.
You also need to consider what kind of riding you want to do. If winter riding is likely, then you need hubs with sealed bearings.
__________________
"The bicycle has a soul. If you succeed to love it, it will give you emotions that you will never forget." Mario Cipollini
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11-07-09, 16:38
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: MidWest, USA
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I've had this same set up on my 2 speed Surly Cross Check for 10 years. 48t X 38t front chainrings, 18t freewheel, Paul Melvin tensioner. The Melvin allows for up to a 20t spread up front. I shift with an old SunTour barcon. Not a SS anymore, but if you have to deal with any decent size hills or want to hit some trails, that 2nd smaller gear is great.
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