Advice on Groupset and frame from Ribble

[King Boonen]

Hi,

I'm looking to get my first road bike and was after some advice. I can obviously try things out to see what feels comfortable but I don't know how reliable things are and how easy to maintain they are.

I'm planning on buying a road bike which I'd like to be good enough for general riding, climbs on holidays to the Pyrenees, Alps etc. and possibly club runs but not racing.

I've chosen Ribble because I can buy through the bike to work scheme in the uk from them and I have much more control over what I get. Plus their prices are brilliant. Anything else in my price bracket has Sora and that's it.

I'm stuck between three groupsets and two frames in varying combinations.

I can afford their winter trainer with either Shimano Tiagra, Campagnolo Veloce or Sram Apex. I can afford their alloy sportive with Tiagra.

I'd like to get a bike that I realistically don't have to change anything on, except the obvious things like worn out parts, so I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice.

I'd like it to be as cheap as possible (the cheapest bike would be their winter trainer with Tiagra 9 speed which I'd like to avoid, 10 speed Tiagra on that frame is actually more expensive than Campagnolo Veloce) but will spend the extra money if it is worth while.

So what do you think? Which should I go for and why?

 

[purpletezza]

Go for the alloy frame as it is lighter than steel. At the cheap end of the market you are not getting anything above basic in steel or alloy. Go for Shimano as they have proven durability(compared to SRAM), parts are compatable across their range, widely available and are cheaper to replace than Campag. I wouldn't go near SRAM. 9/10 mechanical breakdowns I have seen at races and sportives have been SRAM. 9.9/10 gearing mishifts I have seen have been SRAM.

 

[King Boonen]

Ok thanks for the advice.

Both frames are 7005 Aluminium alloy so really it's only the geometry that's different I think, any advice on which to go for? If I go for Shimano the prices are pretty much the same for both. They vary alot with the other groupsets.

I've read very good things about Campagnolo. Would it not be worth the extra money? Is it true Shimano can't shift under load?

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Hi,

I'm looking to get my first road bike and was after some advice. I can obviously try things out to see what feels comfortable but I don't know how reliable things are and how easy to maintain they are.

I'm planning on buying a road bike which I'd like to be good enough for general riding, climbs on holidays to the Pyrenees, Alps etc. and possibly club runs but not racing.

I've chosen Ribble because I can buy through the bike to work scheme in the uk from them and I have much more control over what I get. Plus their prices are brilliant. Anything else in my price bracket has Sora and that's it.

I'm stuck between three groupsets and two frames in varying combinations.

I can afford their winter trainer with either Shimano Tiagra, Campagnolo Veloce or Sram Apex. I can afford their alloy sportive with Tiagra.

I'd like to get a bike that I realistically don't have to change anything on, except the obvious things like worn out parts, so I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice.

I'd like it to be as cheap as possible (the cheapest bike would be their winter trainer with Tiagra 9 speed which I'd like to avoid, 10 speed Tiagra on that frame is actually more expensive than Campagnolo Veloce) but will spend the extra money if it is worth while.

So what do you think? Which should I go for and why?

Campagnolo Veloce, stay away from sram anything. My experience with sram is that it ISN'T a premium group company, it's made as cheaply and lightly as possible and the result is that it is finicky and unreliable(breaks often). Second choice would be 5700(shimano 105 level stuff) if you can find that for the price point BUT Tiagra works/lasts well enough

 

[King Boonen]

Campagnolo Veloce, stay away from sram anything. My experience with sram is that it ISN'T a premium group company, it's made as cheaply and lightly as possible and the result is that it is finicky and unreliable(breaks often). Second choice would be 5700(shimano 105 level stuff) if you can find that for the price point BUT Tiagra works/lasts well enough

What is your experience if you don't mind my asking?

Also, they do the bike with a mix of Campagnolo xenon shifters/veloce drive train for £44 less (about $70ish). Is it worth the extra money for the Veloce shifters? It seems like it is.

 

[Throbbobank]

Some general comments on your questions that I hope help....

1. Ribble are very good value for money - we have two in the household (Evo Pro and Ultra Lite)
2. Personally, I've never had any problems with Veloce - my wife, who had 105 before, has put Veloce on the new Evo Pro because she likes the intuitive nature of the shifting (I have had 105/Ultegra in the past but never SRAM so can't really comment)
3. Do take account of your ability to define components with Ribble - so, you're talking about a bike for the Alps? Well, consider an appropriate cassette 12-29 and medium cage derailleur
4. Do get the best wheels you can afford
5. You're financing the bike through the bike to work scheme - remember that you're getting some tax breaks on the finance and that your bike will be worth some money in the future. So, for example, my wife bought her first bike through the scheme about 2.5 years ago - we looked after it (good cleaning/lubing/servicing regime) and when she came to sell it on ebay a few weeks ago she got £500 for it - so effectively, although it was a £1,000 bike she'd only paid about £700 for it, meaning that she had paid £200 for 2 years of bike use.........
6. While I only urge you to enjoy your bike, get out, enjoy every minute and get/stay really healthy (what's that worth?)....do think about 5. above....a. don't scrimp on saving £50 now which after tax breaks may only be £35 which paid over 12 months is under 80p a week and b. look after your bike by some proper cleaning and maintenance and that £50 may still be worth £35 when you come to sell it

Hope this helps and enjoy your new bike

 

[rgmerk]

easy upgrades

Whatever you end up buying, there are a couple of near-essential upgrades in my book. Switch to better tyres - Continental Gatorskins are my favourite (non-racing) tyre. Punctures suck. You'll have a lot less of them compared to the cheap tyres that come standard on low-end road bikes. Second upgrade is replacing the brake pads with Kool-Stops, and choose the "salmon" pads if you live in a wet area. Cheap and improves the braking a lot. Swiss stops are good too, but pricey.

Oh, and if you don't have cycling shoes and clipless pedals, you'll want them. Toe clips hurt over any substantial distance.

 

[dsut4392]

Second upgrade is replacing the brake pads with Kool-Stops, and choose the "salmon" pads if you live in a wet area.

The OP said the bike was being bought under "the bike to work scheme in the uk", so that's a given;-)

 

[Boeing]

dont take advice form the internet forums here

 

[Bustedknuckle]

What is your experience if you don't mind my asking?

Also, they do the bike with a mix of Campagnolo xenon shifters/veloce drive train for £44 less (about $70ish). Is it worth the extra money for the Veloce shifters? It seems like it is.

Own a bike shop and I see, fix and warranty sram stuff all the time. I don't sell bikes with it, but I am a service oriented shop(sell about 55 bikes per year, average price about $4500, start with bike fit->frame->built at the shop).

Yep, Veloce, newer shape, is great gear.

 

[King Boonen]

Thanks everyone,

Looks like Veloce is the one I'll go with.

Boeing, what a strange response. The internet was designed to get advice and facilitate discussion.

About gearing, Throbbobank suggests a 12-29 cassette (for mountain climbs).

On the bike I'll get Ribble do:

12-25
11-25
12-23
13-26
13-29

Cranks are compact 34/50 or 39/53.

I fully expect that I'll end up owning a few cassettes but what should I start with? also what cranks? what does compact mean?

 

[JayKosta]

For recreational and exercise riding (not racing), I suggest the
13-29, with 34/50. This will be good for flat, and also mountain riding.
Don't worry about the 50-13 not being 'fast enough', it is fine for any non-racing situation.

'Compact gearing' is just the term used for that range of chainring choices - usually 50-34/36.
Current typical 'racing' chainrings are 53-39. In the old-days 52-42 was common.

If you plan on doing long rides in hills / mountains, you will be glad to have low gears available.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

 

[Throbbobank]

Sound advice from Jay which I echo - 50/34 cranks and 13/29 will get you up most climbs and certainly in the early days it's unlikely that you'll be cursing not having something more than your 50/13 gear as often as you'll be absolutely delighted that you aren't having to get off and push because of your 34/13

Rgmerk also makes a great point - not all tyres are the same so try and spend a bit of money on better ones than the standard ribble bike builder issue...add to that the inner tubes - the ones delivered as standard by ribble are (in my experience) horrendous, valves poor and prone to explode when inflate to 110 psi - just pay the £5.00 or whatever they charge for Continentals....

Are you starting to get the feeling that there are lots and lots of upgrades you can make? The great news is many aren't that expensive so make fantastic Christmas/Birthday "stocking fillers" for friends and family...just start making your list....

 

[Notso Swift]

I would definitely go compact for a newer rider... and for almost anyone not a PRO looking to do real mountains (Personally I would be on 11-25, but I do not know your ability)

An good call with Veloce, it is a level above the Shimano Sora.

My biggest tip is don't forget you pedals and shoes