C59 Rear brake cable housing problem

I am half way through replacing the rear brake cable on my C59. The bike uses a continuous housing to the rear brake, not cable stops, but it goes inside the TT. Thinking I was being clever, I left the old inner cable in place to guide the new outer housing through the TT. Problem is that the new outer won't feed through. It hits something inside the TT a cm or two in from either end.

I'm not sure why there is anything in the TT at all. What it hits seems to be a bit loose and rattly.

Any assistance gratefully received.

Edit: I got it through. I made a "lead" out of the old housing by trimming the plastic and rounding-off the metal sheath and pushed it through using the old cable as a guide. Still a battle. The "lead" then allowed me to get the new housing through. But thanks anyway for all the suggestions that were about to come flooding in!
 
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King Boonen said:
I was just about to give you my fool-proof method for solving back brake issues as well!

Thanks anyway!

And then I couldn't get the front derailleur cable to exit the slot in the BB. ended up taking the crank off to get in there and feed it out. (The hole where the cable enters on the DT is too small for the "plastic tubing" solution. I was actually thinking if drilling it out a hair. There would still be plenty of meat in the socket to support the ferrule)

Do you have a foolproof way of threading the shifter cables through the SR shifters? It pops out the top once you've pushed it through the mechanism, and I can't figure out how to thread it back through the body of the shifter without getting a kink in it. The kink was (I think) why it wouldn't just slide down the inside of DT and out the BB slot.

And don't get me started on why the brake cable is so hard to thread through the shifter as well. 10 minutes of jiggling and poking at every conceivable angle and then it just randomly/magically appears, saying "what was all the fuss about"?
 
To be honest I don't have a foolproof method. As you'd solved the issue I was just going to suggest you should ride fixed and get rid of the rear brake :D It solves the shifter issue as well!

I've been told several methods, the inner cable method is the one most seem to use, threading the new outer form either end, or splashing out on the Park Tool IR-1 (which is mainly done by people with loads of cash or folks who work on other people's bikes for them). I'm not sure either of these would have helped if there is something in the top tube though. I could see that they may possibly reinforce the top tube close to the seat tube join if that's an area they feel is too weak, but then I wouldn't have thought that is necessary these days.

Don't get me started on threading cables. I have Tektro brake only drop levers on two bikes and I basically have to spend hours trying to get the cable through or unwrap the bars so I can thread the cable into the lever and then the outer seperately. No matter what I do I cannot get it to sit right, but then when it's threaded it's perfectly fine and does catch or rub at all.

Hopefully GM or BK can help you out on the lever question.
 
Apr 8, 2012
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From the big three Campagnolo mechanical has always been the easiest to set up, and I know winky wasn't born yesterday, so I don't get it.

winkybiker said:
But thanks anyway for all the suggestions that were about to come flooding in!

:lol: Maybe before the political hacks ruined this place.