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Campy guys: critique my C10 chain install

Does this master link look okay? I don't have a Campy chain tool and this was only my second install of a C10.

rmasterlink.jpg

Inside

qmasterlink.jpg

Outside

What say you?
 
Aug 4, 2009
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I dont use a camp chain tool either if it feels OK even protrusion both sides and dosnt break apart when you wiggle it side ways it should be OK
Check it eregular but the C10 chain is stronger than most 10 speed chains so you will get pleanty of warning if something is about to come un done.

I have never had problems with C10 but some trouble with other narrow chains. like record ultra narrow and KMC narrow chains.
 
Aug 16, 2009
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Looks OK, I use a Weinman (sp?) master link, as I like the option of being able to pull the chain easily.
 
I'm antsy over this because I blew apart the only other C10 I'd ever pinned together this past Saturday eve. It only had about 5500 km on it -- same as the sprockets/chain rings -- and it came apart at the link next to the master link. I already had a replacement chain in my spares bin and couldn't bear the three or four days it would have taken to get a "real" Campy mechanic to mend it.

When it came apart I went over the handlebars and got lucky because the bike wasn't much hurt and the most bruised part of me was my ego. I'm looking to avoid a repeat because the next time neither I nor the bike might not be so fortunate.
 
Apr 5, 2010
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brianf7 said:
I dont use a camp chain tool either if it feels OK even protrusion both sides and dosnt break apart when you wiggle it side ways it should be OK
Check it eregular but the C10 chain is stronger than most 10 speed chains so you will get pleanty of warning if something is about to come un done.


If it doesn't break when you wiggle it sideways then it's ok? Are you kidding?

The instructions that come with the campy chains detail very well how to install them. Follow the instructions and pay attention to the amount of pin protrusion the specs list. Almost flush on the inside at a spec if I recall correctly of 0.1mm, and much more on the outside. It's correctly installed when you can just barely catch the inside ridge of the pin with your fingernail but can clearly see and catch the outside of the pin.
There is a feel when pushing the pin through just as you overcome the last inside ridge in the pin and then the final shoulder on the pin rests against the plate and gives you a little resistance. When you feel that, stop pushing and that's when the pin is in far enough.

So many complain about the cost of the campy chain tools. You'll know why they cost so much once you use one. Nothing compares. Chain is held securely, pins install perfectly straight. Sure, I've installed many campy chains with other than campy chain tools. Many have gone ok, a few have not as the pin goes in crooked without the upper restraining pins that campy chain tools have. What you end up having to do then to correctly install is buy the campy connector link to properly connect the chain. They are not cheap and after a few of those, you say to hell with it and just buy the correct tool.

When not using the campy tool, you need to pay very specific attention to make sure the guide pin goes in perfectly straight hence guiding the securing pin in perfectly straight. If it's even a little crooked, it can ovalize the hole in the plate as it enters and you have a compromised connection and possibly weakened link that's more susceptible to breakage. Imagine what could have happened if you'd gone over the bars into vehicular traffic? Not a chance in hell that's worth the risk of a questionable chain install in my opinion.


BTW, at 5500 km, you are riding with a chain that's probably stretched far beyond specs and at that point, you are rapidly and prematurely wearing out the rest of your drivetrain.
 
Oct 22, 2010
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My LBS installs Champy chains for free when I purchase one there.

No $200 tool for me. ;) And no, I'm not paying stupid for a chain from them.