Everyday wheels

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BroDeal said:
I'll have to back the above up and say that my Eurus have been rock solid, even if they do have few spokes. Of course, they have decent hubs, unlike most of the prebuilt stuff.

Everyone should have at least one set of custom built, traditional wheels, though. It's not like a set is very expensive.

Yes to custom, even, and especially, everyday wheels. Roads can be rough around here and often spend miles on the dirt roads. Hard packed of course. So I built myself a set of Velocity Major Toms on DT 340's, Challenge P-R 27 tubi. They are smooth and strong Bro
WE have our P-R of the midwest here called Cone-Azalia.
 
Oct 25, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
60mm is more than enough, just make sure your training wheels are heavier than your Boras, otherwise you're not gaining anything from a training perspective by having 2 sets of wheels if they're close in weight.

I think I remember some sorta articles and advice on here that training with a heavier bike does not make much difference in terms of race day...? I would love to hear from some training folks on this..so should I train on my 22 pound lemond...and then race on my 17 pound trek? is this a real difference maker?
 
Oct 25, 2010
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everyday wheels? christ...just buy a pair of mavic open pros with 36 spoke count and ultegra hubs...not made by any special hand, but a machine...run you about 250 and will last you for years...a decade almost...I have three sets and they have all been running hardcore 5000 miles a year and beaten to s#it for years...true them yourself and take abit of care and they are best training wheels in the world...of course now I expect to someone to jump out of the woodwork and tell me how wrong I am am and they need to be handmade ect ect Bs bs bs...:eek:
 
Mar 19, 2009
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The Gnome said:
everyday wheels? christ...just buy a pair of mavic open pros with 36 spoke count and ultegra hubs...not made by any special hand, but a machine...run you about 250 and will last you for years...a decade almost...I have three sets and they have all been running hardcore 5000 miles a year and beaten to s#it for years...true them yourself and take abit of care and they are best training wheels in the world...of course now I expect to someone to jump out of the woodwork and tell me how wrong I am am and they need to be handmade ect ect Bs bs bs...:eek:

Not wrong at all, great wheels can come out of machines, it's because whoever finished them off in terms of final tension and true did a good job. An Open Pro/Ultegra wheel set is always laced by hand, brought up to tension in the machine, then finished off by hand, lower quality wheels are not.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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The Gnome said:
I think I remember some sorta articles and advice on here that training with a heavier bike does not make much difference in terms of race day...? I would love to hear from some training folks on this..so should I train on my 22 pound lemond...and then race on my 17 pound trek? is this a real difference maker?

Rotational wheel weight has a huge impact on performance and training, more so than the total weight of the bike, but that helps too. Say you race on a 1300g set, get a 1800g+ set with heavy rims, lots of spokes, and heavy duty wire bead clinchers rolling on a daily basis and race day you're going to feel the benefits for sure. Acceleration becomes almost effortless on the race set.
 
Oct 25, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Rotational wheel weight has a huge impact on performance and training, more so than the total weight of the bike, but that helps too. Say you race on a 1300g set, get a 1800g+ set with heavy rims, lots of spokes, and heavy duty wire bead clinchers rolling on a daily basis and race day you're going to feel the benefits for sure. Acceleration becomes almost effortless on the race set.

accelleration minus gut and minus BS..and I cant believe you care about wheel rotanational ect BS weight...colorado must be hurting via minn...
 
Oct 25, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Rotational wheel weight has a huge impact on performance and training, more so than the total weight of the bike, but that helps too. Say you race on a 1300g set, get a 1800g+ set with heavy rims, lots of spokes, and heavy duty wire bead clinchers rolling on a daily basis and race day you're going to feel the benefits for sure. Acceleration becomes almost effortless on the race set.

RD...you always get off on this stuff...why is that? it is pretty much like old skateboard stuff from the 70's via being cool...I just dont get it my friend...you always have to be the guy at the top of the creek...why the f>>> is that...?
 
For winter and general training, I'd say a set of open pros with record hubs, tied-and-soldered DT spokes will last you forever and will allow you to jump off the paved road onto that gravel side road you've always wanted to explore but never had the heart do it on your Zipps/Boras/Lightweights.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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The Gnome said:
RD...you always get off on this stuff...why is that? it is pretty much like old skateboard stuff from the 70's via being cool...I just dont get it my friend...you always have to be the guy at the top of the creek...why the f>>> is that...?

I build wheels for a living, you've been around long enough to know that. I read your BS comments before you deleted them. What's 70's about a Record hubset laced to H Plus Son SL 42's? It's "some kind of new", and they make the perfect training set for RR'ing. Try winding up that set into a 40mph sprint training everyday, then a set of Boras. I accept apologies in the form of the finest Belgian beers. :cool:
 
Jul 30, 2010
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For everyday wheels, I would highly recommend a set of handbuilt wheels. A good set of hubs and rims laced to your riding style/weight will last longer and be more servicable than any off the shelf mass produced made in China pap. Chances are that there is a wheel builder local to you that could build you some kick *** wheels that will last years and not cost an arm and a leg.
 
chasbo said:
For everyday wheels, I would highly recommend a set of handbuilt wheels. A good set of hubs and rims laced to your riding style/weight will last longer and be more servicable than any off the shelf mass produced made in China pap. Chances are that there is a wheel builder local to you that could build you some kick *** wheels that will last years and not cost an arm and a leg.

Reality, what a concept.
 
Oct 25, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
I build wheels for a living, you've been around long enough to know that. I read your BS comments before you deleted them. What's 70's about a Record hubset laced to H Plus Son SL 42's? It's "some kind of new", and they make the perfect training set for RR'ing. Try winding up that set into a 40mph sprint training everyday, then a set of Boras. I accept apologies in the form of the finest Belgian beers. :cool:

nah, you are right...if I could get any here I would send you a few...
 
Mar 10, 2009
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I find it odd if not extremely ironic that the recommendation is to get custom hand made wheels for everyday riding and then mass produced wheels for the special days as it be.

Something is wrong there. :confused:
 
Aug 13, 2009
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Everyday wheels should be durable and easy to fix. No special tools or waiting 4 weeks when a spoke snaps. Have used dozens of wheels over the year but for my training wheels I always come back to custom. I am no lightweight, 195 pounds, and am super hard on equipment.

I have bought from RDV4ROUBAIX and Bustedknuckle and both make excellent wheels. I put over 50,000 miles on a paid of DT's Bustedknuckle made. One broken spoke and the occasional true that is all.

The Ambrosios RDV made recently for me are an absolute joy to ride and have already manged many miles of dirt roads. The best wheels I have ever had.

I assume that there are factory made wheels that would be durable, I have just not found them.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Race Radio said:
Everyday wheels should be durable and easy to fix. No special tools or waiting 4 weeks when a spoke snaps. Have used dozens of wheels over the year but for my training wheels I always come back to custom. I am no lightweight, 195 pounds, and am super hard on equipment.

I have bought from RDV4ROUBAIX and Bustedknuckle and both make excellent wheels. I put over 50,000 miles on a paid of DT's Bustedknuckle made. One broken spoke and the occasional true that is all.

The Ambrosios RDV made recently for me are an absolute joy to ride and have already manged many miles of dirt roads. The best wheels I have ever had.

I assume that there are factory made wheels that would be durable, I have just not found them.

Thanks for the nice compliments RR! Great to hear you're enjoying the wheels, especially the dirt road part. I'm a big proponent of gravel road riding and racing, there are many rolling my wheels that dare to go off pavement.

There are some decent mass produced wheels out there, but they don't generally work well for bigger, more powerful riders that are hovering around the .1 ton range. If the builds turn out good, it's usually the parts that are lacking, namely hubs. It's basically planned obsolescence because they are sacrificing hub bearing quality and design to save a few grams, where those grams don't make any bit of difference. They don't want their wheel sets to last 50k miles otherwise they'd go out of biz if people stopped buying new wheels every 3 seasons. Another big problem with the big wheel mfg's is that many are OEM oriented and utilize cheap labor to build their wheels, both here in the US and abroad, barley making a living wage, usually give them quotas to produce so many wheels per hour using machines, and the builders more often than not do not ride or race the product they build everyday. Wheels being the most dynamic part of a bicycle I'd want somebody building them that gives a shit, knowhatimean. ;)
 
Jul 30, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Thanks for the nice compliments RR! Great to hear you're enjoying the wheels, especially the dirt road part. I'm a big proponent of gravel road riding and racing, there are many rolling my wheels that dare to go off pavement.

There are some decent mass produced wheels out there, but they don't generally work well for bigger, more powerful riders that are hovering around the .1 ton range. If the builds turn out good, it's usually the parts that are lacking, namely hubs. It's basically planned obsolescence because they are sacrificing hub bearing quality and design to save a few grams, where those grams don't make any bit of difference. They don't want their wheel sets to last 50k miles otherwise they'd go out of biz if people stopped buying new wheels every 3 seasons. Another big problem with the big wheel mfg's is that many are OEM oriented and utilize cheap labor to build their wheels, both here in the US and abroad, barley making a living wage, usually give them quotas to produce so many wheels per hour using machines, and the builders more often than not do not ride or race the product they build everyday. Wheels being the most dynamic part of a bicycle I'd want somebody building them that gives a shit, knowhatimean. ;)

That is pretty much it in a nutshell...
 
Sep 16, 2011
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ElChingon said:
I find it odd if not extremely ironic that the recommendation is to get custom hand made wheels for everyday riding and then mass produced wheels for the special days as it be.

Something is wrong there. :confused:

Well, if you want a fancy aero carbon tubular wheel setup for racing, options are...lacking. You can go OEM on eBay, or there is Reynolds (more expensive), Zipp (overpriced) and top of the line Enve (VERY spendy).

Meanwhile, a set of pre-builts can be had for cheap, especially used if you buy them from a tri-dork or whoever; they barely use the stuff, already replacing it with the new Zipps that promised 18 seconds on a 40k TT. Their idiocy is your gain...

The point being, race specific wheels from a handful of manufacturers aren't bad when you aren't going to be putting them through abuse. Ideally, yes, every wheelset you buy should be handbuilt for your specific purposes, but that's always not going to align with your specific financial reality. I'm currently contemplating some Ritchey 50mm carbon tubies, lightly used (like 200 miles) and the price is hilariously cheap. Would I rather have some ENVE rims with DT 240s hubs and Sapim spokes? Yes, but I think my money is better spent on something else given the fact that these won't be primary wheels.