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First time (re)build advice

Jun 4, 2010
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I'm about to embark on a total rebuild of an aluminium frame and am looking for any advice, hints, or warnings from those who might have a bit more mechanical know-how than I do.

OK so here's the plan:

Keep: the frame, stem, forks, handlebars, seatpost, saddle, clamp, hanger.

Lose: everything else, wheels included.

New: 10-speed 105 groupset (the old one was a 9-speed 105 group - i assume this wont be a problem)

Upgrade the wheels on my better bike and bring my mavic kysrium equipe over to the rebuild bike.


so any thoughts? what haven't i thought of? what will be difficult?

I've already learnt not to skimp on quality tools and youtube how-tos are my friends.
 
Jun 4, 2010
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oh yeah - i'm also looking to change from a standard to compact chainset.

the old set was pre hollowtech and i've just noticed the bcd seems to be 130 on both now
 
The 9 speed shimano groupsets were pretty sweet. They shifted better with the cables coming straight out, rather than being tortured to fit under the bar wrap. Any particular reason you want to swap to 10 speed, other than going compact?
 
May 11, 2009
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winkybiker said:
The 9 speed shimano groupsets were pretty sweet. They shifted better with the cables coming straight out, rather than being tortured to fit under the bar wrap. Any particular reason you want to swap to 10 speed, other than going compact?

This gives me another thought if you keep your old bars. Will they allow two sets of cables without them becoming uncomfortable?
 
Jun 4, 2010
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I was thinking changing to 10 speed just for parts compatibility with my other bike. No massive benefit there, I guess, other than complying a little with OCD tendencies.

Yes - the cable wiring in handlebars will likely cause an issue. So I might have to get some new ones too.

Now I see the 2014/15 105 groupset is 11 speed!

It's been a while since I've used something lower than 105. Weight is a non-issue for this bike, so it's more quality functioning that i'm after. Maybe I should consider sticking with a 9-speed.
 
May 11, 2009
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I had 9-speed on my CX bike - I found that I could use my 10-speed, Integra equipped, wheels except that I could not shift into the largest cluster cog.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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winkybiker said:
The 9 speed shimano groupsets were pretty sweet. They shifted better with the cables coming straight out, rather than being tortured to fit under the bar wrap. Any particular reason you want to swap to 10 speed, other than going compact?

Completely agree with this though I do like the 10 speed hood shape a lot more. The first 9 speed hoods were torture for my hands.

If you were staying with 9 speed, the last gen Tiagra shifters shared the better (imo) hood shape though the shifting action was so light it was hard to tell during winter riding (those were on a cross bike) if I actually upshifted sometimes.
 
10 speed 105 is ok, just don't use the standard cables - fork out the extra for Jagwire, don't bother with Gore.

Another option could be to wait for the new 11 speed 105 to come out, or make the jump to Campy Centaur, which is a great group for the $$$.
 

stutue

BANNED
Apr 22, 2014
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10 speed has the advantage over 11 speed in that prices for compatible chains and cassettes have come right down. Plus the 10 speed consumables are likely to last longer than 11 speed as historically more gears has meant shorter life.

You can pick up some absolute bargains with 10sp 105 now that it has been superseded. Its a no-brainer.

Another advantage over 9 speed is that you'll lose the annoying 'washing line' cabling coming out of the top of the shifters. Actually its really annoying if you use bar mounted lights.

Personally I wouldn't bother with expensive after market cable sets. Just change the outer cables more frequently. Its cheaper (less than £5 from bikeshop who uses bulk cable boxes) and will run smoothly.
 
Jun 4, 2010
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Okay - so I've finished the job, been for a few rides, and really couldn't be happier with the end result especially in terms of value for money and mechanical practice/ experience.

If anyone else is in a similar situation, I recommend giving it a go; even if you don't need a major overhaul, being able to set up and adjust your own drivetrain will mean you'll ride a better bike more often for less money.

I ended up going for shimano 105 5700 groupset (AU$450) and shimano rs31 wheels (AU$200) (decided i didn't need new ones for my better bike). So for AU$700 (not including tools) I've now got a bike that is better than the $1600ish bought 6-7 years ago.

I fit both cables under the bar tape without too much trouble and it isn't too lumpy even though the bars only have routing for one.

A couple notes for anyone trying the same thing:

Older parts probably mean you'll need different tools.

5700 105 crankset it way better than the 2006 105 crankset (octolink - i think)

http://vimeo.com/8613681 - this was handy; so were Global Cycling Network youtube videos.

If you've got more than one bike, make one a compact; if you've only got one, you still might want one.


Anyway - I'm well chuffed and set for the sth hemisphere winter.
 
Jun 4, 2010
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oh yeah - a couple more notes:

a repair stand is pretty handy and particularly useful in identifying unwanted noises.

don't over tighten parts/ bolts. I didn't use a torque wrench, but i'd previously learnt this one the hard way.