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How do you keep your feet warm in winter?

Apr 11, 2009
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Sounds dumb, but I can't do it yet.

Ride today at 3 degrees celsius, windchill only -2 to -4 degrees at my riding speed, including descending. Feet again cold!

What I use:
- quite heavy duty neoprene winter booties/shoe covers
- removed the insole of shoes to give feet more room (roomier is warmer)
- wool socks
- covered by some sort of thin poly wind-resistant booties inside the shoe,
- and even more: on top of that, thin aero shoe covers, to keep even more air/wind out below the neoprene booties.

So I have four layers (though only the socks are thick) and feet are still cold! When I take the shoes off at the end of the ride, the front inside of the shoe inside is physically cold to the touch probably also from dampness of sweat. There's no doubt about that: the front of the shoe is cold. Toes going white. Aargh! :cool:

Thinking now of lining the toe section of shoe with tinfoil for reflective heat.

Any ideas? I want to ride till the snow arrives in Canada, mid-December where I am.

If you have products in mind, please include the weblinks. Much appreciated! (I'm thinking: can you get really thin wool socks also like gloves, covering individual toes you can wear inside regular wool socks. Bizarre, but maybe this will work, etc.)

Toes warming up
 
Apr 8, 2012
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There comes a point in temperature where booties and shoe covers just don't cut it. If you're willing to make the investment you need proper winter boots. I've tried Sidi and Gaerne boots in the past, but have settled on Lake. The MXZ302 is the warmest winter cycling boot on the market. I've had mine for more than 10 seasons now. They are plenty warm down to -15C wearing just thin wool socks.

http://www.lakecycling.com/footwear.html
lake-cycling-mxz302-winter-snow-boot.jpg
 
Sep 1, 2011
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Giuseppe Magnetico said:
There comes a point in temperature where booties and shoe covers just don't cut it. If you're willing to make the investment you need proper winter boots. I've tried Sidi and Gaerne boots in the past, but have settled on Lake. The MXZ302 is the warmest winter cycling boot on the market. I've had mine for more than 10 seasons now. They are plenty warm down to -15C wearing just thin wool socks.

http://www.lakecycling.com/footwear.html
lake-cycling-mxz302-winter-snow-boot.jpg

They look like my steel cap work boots!
I really can't give any good advice.
I live in Sydney, Australia the temps your talking about are already way below our coldest days. But crikey those boots. Never seen anything like that before.
 
Jun 20, 2009
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Ride faster :D:D:D

Seriously though, you can buy little foot warmer patches from EBay. They have some sort of iron filings that react with air (oxidation) to create warmth to 50deg.c. for up to 12 hours. Have only used the skin patches so can't comment on comfort for feet.
 
Nov 3, 2012
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The problem of cold feet during cold winter (and hands) cycling rides arises as a direct result of natural human physiological evolutionary processes. While you cycle in sub zero conditions the torso which contains the vital organs are protected when your body sends a signal to your extremities, feet, hands, limbs, which constricts the blood vessels in those areas. The constriction of the blood vessels aids the preservation of core body temperature. So in theory another solution to keeping your extremities somewhat warmer is to maintain the body's (torso) core temperature by keeping it as warm and dry as possible. That may mean adding a layer or two on your upper body depending on the weather conditions.
 
Sep 30, 2009
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What Scorpius said. Plus add good windlblock tights. If your torso is warm but your legs are cool, your body will sense that and vasoconstrict in the lower extremities. Your legs are doing the work and have quite a bit of muscle mass to keep you warm but your feet don't, so make sure you also have an unbroken chain of warmth from torso to feet.
 
Jul 23, 2009
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I wonder if individual physiology plays a role in this. I've ridden in extreme cold with a similar or lesser setup than the OP described. Maybe you just have cold feet, a circulation issue or something. I thought perhaps your feet were bound too tightly, but you addressed the roomier = warmer issue. Did removing the insole leave cleat holes against your sock, or a hard plastic/carbon shoe surface that would get really cold? Maybe the wind barrier inside the shoe is trapping sweat against the foot and that is making your feet cold. You may have to resort to the dreaded hot shot. Just lobbing some ideas out there, hope you figure it out because cold feet SUCK.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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twothirds said:
What Scorpius said. Plus add good windlblock tights. If your torso is warm but your legs are cool, your body will sense that and vasoconstrict in the lower extremities. Your legs are doing the work and have quite a bit of muscle mass to keep you warm but your feet don't, so make sure you also have an unbroken chain of warmth from torso to feet.

Not to hijack this thread, but I'd love to hear what people are wearing in cooler temperatures.

I find I really struggle once the temp drops into the low 40s F to wear clothing that doesn't a) make me feel like I'm in a sauna or b) having me stopping to warm up during a longer ride.

Thanks.
 
Sep 30, 2009
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richwagmn said:
Not to hijack this thread, but I'd love to hear what people are wearing in cooler temperatures.

I find I really struggle once the temp drops into the low 40s F to wear clothing that doesn't a) make me feel like I'm in a sauna or b) having me stopping to warm up during a longer ride.

Thanks.

Torso: Wicking layer next the the skin(long sleeve), followed with a long sleeved, high neck fleece top, and a windblock/waterproof (ripstop-ish material) jacket with an "exhaust vent" in the upper back. This jacket also has adjustable sleeve openings via velcro and armpit zips. By leaving just enough room for a small draft to get through your sleeves, neck, and if need be, the armpits, you can bleed off enough steam without losing too much heat. Adjustability and layers are key to keeping warm and comfortable. If required, I can always add another long sleeve under the ripstop jacket if it's really cold.

Legs: Biemme windstopper bibtights. Wicking socks under a light pair of wool socks. Normal road shoes left slightly loose with Garneau windstopper booties.

Gloves: Depends on the weather. If it's not too windy but somewhat cold, A pair of AuClair insulated gloves. Windy but not too cold, a pair of Adidas Climawarm running gloves, and if it's really cold, a pair of specialized neoprene lobster gloves.

Head: Garneau skullcap with earwarmers under my helmet. If it's really cold, a cycling cap over the skully to cut the wind. Heavy beard keeps the face warm!
 
Oct 16, 2012
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Apart of keeping the torso warm, I noticed two important things:

The more room your feet have, the warmer it is, that’s right, but it is also vital to loosen the straps a little bit – quite inconvenient, when pedaling harder or sprinting, but the straps can block blood circulation. I rarely care in summer, but in winter, it’s hell.

Removing inner soles to gain space inside the shoe is a bad idea. That brings your foot in contact with parts of the shoe, that might have cooled down due to chilling wind effects or contact to the ground, especially the cleat area. I exchange soles in winter and use some with an aluminium foil bottom and lamb wool on top. That is quite a good insulation and they are not as thick as the usual soles.

Apart of that, winter boots are a good investment, neoprene booties (3 mm) are too.

And when I’m grown up, I buy me a pair of these:
http://www.heat-systems.de/index.php?project=schwarzRC (German)
 
Dec 21, 2010
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twothirds said:
What Scorpius said......

+1

As an old stockman always told me, "when your feet are cold, put a ruddy hat on!!!"

Works a treat, as 20% of heat-loss is through the skull/face area, also the neck is a source of significant heat loss at any decent cycling speeds.

I use a thin (1mm) neoprene skull-cap under the helmet, and a thick polar-fleece neck baffle that I can pull up and hook onto the helmet adjuster at the back, and then pulll up over my mouth, nose and ears.
The baffle also helps trapping moisture and warmth so the air you breathe in is not doing a dry-freeze job on your lungs.... helps a lot in keeping the body's core temps up.

I use standard neoprene booties with wool socks, shoes a bit looser than summer, and have no problems, even after a long descent at 70km/h, with one morning recently at -5C air temps.... (Madrid Sierra, >1100 metres)
 
Apr 11, 2009
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Thanks, folks, for all the ideas. Appreciated!

My upper body is fine (toasty warm; I just make sure the cycling jacket and wind vest have a good/moveable zipper to adjust temp on the fly). Nalini Pike jacket works for me. But per the "unbroken chain of warmth from torso to feet" comment, I needed warmer tights. That helped. Thanks.

Vasoldilation comment was convincing. Here I don't think humans were meant or evolved to seated exertion, because as soon as I stand on the pedals or get off the bike to stand, the feet warm up very FAST. Weight bearing distributes the blood in feet; spinning them like an eggbeater, when conditions are slightly cold, removes the blood from feet fast to muscles, I'm thinking.

Yes, tocque/head covering is key. Using Look Keo pedals (carbon), so metallic cleats not a big problem. Also, very loose shoe straps helped. Thanks.

Reversed my thinking to what is too hot to wear in shoes in summer: memory foam shoe insoles are very hot, and dirt cheap acrylic socks (re even Dollar store socks). Impossible to wear in summer! So I've been using both.

Below zero will try chemical foot warmers, one per shoe,and winter shoe suggestions if I continue out-of-season riding.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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GreasyMonkey said:
+1

As an old stockman always told me, "when your feet are cold, put a ruddy hat on!!!"

Works a treat, as 20% of heat-loss is through the skull/face area, also the neck is a source of significant heat loss at any decent cycling speeds.

I use a thin (1mm) neoprene skull-cap under the helmet, and a thick polar-fleece neck baffle that I can pull up and hook onto the helmet adjuster at the back, and then pulll up over my mouth, nose and ears.
The baffle also helps trapping moisture and warmth so the air you breathe in is not doing a dry-freeze job on your lungs.... helps a lot in keeping the body's core temps up.

I use standard neoprene booties with wool socks, shoes a bit looser than summer, and have no problems, even after a long descent at 70km/h, with one morning recently at -5C air temps.... (Madrid Sierra, >1100 metres)

So dump the summer socks then? I sort of assumed the neoprene booties would do enough for insulation by themselves (which they obviously don't).
 
Apr 8, 2012
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richwagmn said:
So dump the summer socks then? I sort of assumed the neoprene booties would do enough for insulation by themselves (which they obviously don't).

Rich, you know I'm from your neck of the woods, most people here have no idea about the cold in MN. I used neoprene booties for years until I got proper winter boots. The problem with Neoprene is that it doesn't breathe, so once you get to a certain temp the condensation from your feet sweating starts to freeze, then it's quickly downhill. I used to really push it too, WBL to Stillwater and back,3 hours max for me in the neoprene. I can be out all day in sub-freezing temps with the Lake boots and be totally fine.
 
I read the thermometer before deciding. Here's my scale if it is below about 12 degrees...

10 degrees to 12 degrees: Regular short kit. Maybe some arm-warmers and/or light gilet if it isn't going to get any warmer during the day. No gloves or fingerless gloves.

5 degrees to 10 degrees: Short bibs, lightweight shoe covers, wicking L/S baselayer, S/S jersey (or LS jersey and lightweight gilet). Long gloves, but fairly light.

0 degrees to 5 degrees (like this morning): Long (non-padded) bibs (PI Amfib, usually) and padded undershorts or short bibs underneath, L/S wicking baselayer, S/S jersey, heavier gilet. Warm gloves. Medium-weight shoe covers. Maybe a light headband for the ears on the first descent. I always ditch it early, though - or I get too hot. I can cope with short bibs down to about 2 or 3 degrees if I know it will be warming up later.

-5 to zero degrees: As above but neoprene shoe covers and lobster-mit type very warm gloves. Headband to stop the ears getting cold.

If it is raining I tend to wear much the same, but slightly warmer for any given temperature. I just f*&^ing HATE rain shells (too flappy and sweaty). It's only water, people. The way I figure, it washes right off. I do have a heavy-weight thermal cycling jacket that is fairly waterproof that I will sometimes wear if it is very wet and below 5 degrees - or if it is snowing.
 
Giuseppe Magnetico said:
There comes a point in temperature where booties and shoe covers just don't cut it. If you're willing to make the investment you need proper winter boots. I've tried Sidi and Gaerne boots in the past, but have settled on Lake. The MXZ302 is the warmest winter cycling boot on the market. I've had mine for more than 10 seasons now. They are plenty warm down to -15C wearing just thin wool socks.

http://www.lakecycling.com/footwear.html
lake-cycling-mxz302-winter-snow-boot.jpg

Isn't Lake out of business? What is the best that is available?

My usual rule is that if it is below 35F (2C) I do something other than riding.
 
Apr 8, 2012
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BroDeal said:
Isn't Lake out of business? What is the best that is available?

My usual rule is that if it is below 35F (2C) I do something other than riding.

Lake was going through some kind of problem, I don't know the details on, but the indicator was no contact info on their website. Asked around, somebody mentioned they were changing ownership. All I know is that they're back and the contact list is complete. http://www.lakecycling.com/contact.html

I used to go indoors at about that same temp, on rollers for years, until I figured out how to stay warm on the bike. I almost relish going out in blizzard conditions when the streets are empty. That is soooooo much fun!!

Other boot I like is the 45 NRTH Wölvhammer. QBP was the distro for Lake for many years and it looks like they keyed of their design for this one. 45 NRTH is another Q brand that supports the fat bike and adventure crowd. Looks like the Lake boot on steroids.

45N_Wolvhammer_Release_Doc-3-600x419.jpg
 
Apr 11, 2009
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Giuseppe Magnetico said:
The problem with Neoprene is that it doesn't breathe, so once you get to a certain temp the condensation from your feet sweating starts to freeze, then it's quickly downhill.

Ha, ha, that seems to be my prob! Toasty feet for 30-40 mins, then it's downhill to a lower operating temp. It's the dampness that develops at the very front of the shoe. My boot covers now are non-neoprene. Slightly better.

Giuseppe Magnetico said:
...until I figured out how to stay warm on the bike.

Yeah, a bit of a detective game. Experiment a bit here, a bit there. Didn't think I could ride around zero or below before. Now I can...just! Great advice on boots. Thanks.

winkybiker said:
I just f*&^ing HATE rain shells (too flappy and sweaty).

Long sleeve waterproof or repellent jackets don't work for me. Flap, flap, etc. and I find the dedicated insulated cycling jackets far more wind repellent in any case. Sleeveless windvests do, but under other stuff when colder, because they're unobtrusive. I do an out and back course: climbing out to summit, descending back. I add the windvest inside on the way back.

Also, on my break at the top, I take as much off as I can, LOL, reverse sauna style. Turn the sleeves of Nalini Pike jacket and arm warmers inside out to dry out for 5-10mins. The tradeoff works: sure I get colder for a bit as it's windy at the top, but advantage is it dries clothes fast and this help before starting the fast descent. Windchill is terrible when wet. Dampness is what kills when cold. Just read the SAS survival guides, etc. These guys NEVER bed down near a stream or in a damp ditch. Canadian speaking here.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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Giuseppe Magnetico said:
Rich, you know I'm from your neck of the woods, most people here have no idea about the cold in MN. I used neoprene booties for years until I got proper winter boots. The problem with Neoprene is that it doesn't breathe, so once you get to a certain temp the condensation from your feet sweating starts to freeze, then it's quickly downhill. I used to really push it too, WBL to Stillwater and back,3 hours max for me in the neoprene. I can be out all day in sub-freezing temps with the Lake boots and be totally fine.

That explains the cold feet with neoprene. It always puzzled me. And damn if frozen toes on a ride doesn't suck.

Do you wear summer cycling socks with the boots or something warmer?

It does sound like I need a pair of boots. Anything that limits my time on my trainer is money well spent.
 
Apr 8, 2012
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richwagmn said:
That explains the cold feet with neoprene. It always puzzled me. And damn if frozen toes on a ride doesn't suck.

Do you wear summer cycling socks with the boots or something warmer?

It does sound like I need a pair of boots. Anything that limits my time on my trainer is money well spent.

Rich, it's winter, summer socks, really? C'mon dude, work with me here! :rolleyes: Use Smartwool socks, light or mid-weight in combo with a nice pair of winter boots and you'll be cursing yourself for not doing this years ago.

I used rollers in the off season for many years until I got the proper gear to ride outside in the cold. Riding a bike inside on a trainer or rollers is quite possibly the most boring thing you can subject a human to, don't know why anyone in their right mind would do that with all the fantastic gear available now.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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Giuseppe Magnetico said:
Rich, it's winter, summer socks, really? C'mon dude, work with me here! :rolleyes: Use Smartwool socks, light or mid-weight in combo with a nice pair of winter boots and you'll be cursing yourself for not doing this years ago.

I used rollers in the off season for many years until I got the proper gear to ride outside in the cold. Riding a bike inside on a trainer or rollers is quite possibly the most boring thing you can subject a human to, don't know why anyone in their right mind would do that with all the fantastic gear available now.

Picked up some Lakes today (and wool socks) and rode at 28f. Feet were perfect.

See, I do listen. ;)
 
Apr 8, 2012
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richwagmn said:
Picked up some Lakes today (and wool socks) and rode at 28f. Feet were perfect.

See, I do listen. ;)

Ha-ha! Nice!!! Enjoy adding another full season of cycling to your life. Don't forget to rest.. :)
 
Sep 29, 2012
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Parrot23 said:
Sounds dumb, but I can't do it yet.

Ride today at 3 degrees celsius, windchill only -2 to -4 degrees at my riding speed, including descending. Feet again cold!

What I use:
- quite heavy duty neoprene winter booties/shoe covers
- removed the insole of shoes to give feet more room (roomier is warmer)
- wool socks
- covered by some sort of thin poly wind-resistant booties inside the shoe,
- and even more: on top of that, thin aero shoe covers, to keep even more air/wind out below the neoprene booties.

So I have four layers (though only the socks are thick) and feet are still cold! When I take the shoes off at the end of the ride, the front inside of the shoe inside is physically cold to the touch probably also from dampness of sweat. There's no doubt about that: the front of the shoe is cold. Toes going white. Aargh! :cool:

Thinking now of lining the toe section of shoe with tinfoil for reflective heat.

Any ideas? I want to ride till the snow arrives in Canada, mid-December where I am.

If you have products in mind, please include the weblinks. Much appreciated! (I'm thinking: can you get really thin wool socks also like gloves, covering individual toes you can wear inside regular wool socks. Bizarre, but maybe this will work, etc.)

Toes warming up

I'm in Canada and I ride throughout the winter.

I wear wool socks, and booties, usually enough. If it is cold enough, then I put toe warmers in my shoes. I buy them by the box at WalMart. Crack them abuot 20 minutes before you plan to leave, then put them in your shoes, between the shoe and sock, they last about 5 hours.

I rode 2 hours today at 0* and bright sun. It was glorious.