• The Cycling News forum is still looking to add volunteer moderators with. If you're interested in helping keep our discussions on track, send a direct message to @SHaines here on the forum, or use the Contact Us form to message the Community Team.

    In the meanwhile, please use the Report option if you see a post that doesn't fit within the forum rules.

    Thanks!

Pro wheel builders, how much time?, how much variation in tension?

Feb 15, 2011
14
0
0
For those of you who’ve built 100s or 1000s of wheels, how long does it take you to build a wheel? What’s a typical variation in tension for the finished product? What’s your maximum acceptable variation in tension before you declare the rim out of spec and start over?
 
May 19, 2011
248
0
0
to add to this ive been truing my own wheels but im concerned that repeatedly adding turns to 2 or 3 spokes near a buckle will weaken the wheel and the spokes, is there a maximum you should tension a spoke and the wheel
 
Houdini said:
For those of you who’ve built 100s or 1000s of wheels, how long does it take you to build a wheel? What’s a typical variation in tension for the finished product? What’s your maximum acceptable variation in tension before you declare the rim out of spec and start over?

If undisturbed, from into calc book to finished, about a hour per wheel.

plus or minus 5%, that is, looking for 100 KGF for the front or RH rear...95-105
 
Aug 4, 2009
1,056
1
0
Houdini said:
For those of you who’ve built 100s or 1000s of wheels, how long does it take you to build a wheel? What’s a typical variation in tension for the finished product? What’s your maximum acceptable variation in tension before you declare the rim out of spec and start over?

1 hour from scratch used to build wheels for $5 each in the old days.
Carbon wheels should be tensioned to even all round no diference.
a small buckle can be tweeked with just slacken a tight spoke but I always check all of them so they are even.

When you learn the art of Bamboo wheel building you get a feel without any fancy gadgets.
But these days arthritice effects the feel.
 
Nov 29, 2009
267
2
9,030
wheels

Its really a case of experience, you can tell by feel as you build and tighten a wheel.
The most important thing about wheel building is to use the correct length of spoke.
I have been building wheels professionally for over 30 years and my last pair of wheels for cyclo cross have now done 2 seasons now without being re-trued.
Its just a case of bedding the spokes in 2/3 times as you tighten and tension them.
 
Mar 19, 2009
2,703
3
0
Houdini said:
For those of you who’ve built 100s or 1000s of wheels, how long does it take you to build a wheel? What’s a typical variation in tension for the finished product? What’s your maximum acceptable variation in tension before you declare the rim out of spec and start over?

One hour per wheel, usually a little less for fronts. I'm not in a shop situation so I don't have any other distractions, nor do I work for a corporation that sets quotas for their builds. Ultimately the best wheels take time, just like really good food. For a full day of wheel builds I lace in the morning, then tension and true in the afternoon.

True/Tension variation from spoke to spoke is +/– .05mm, kgf, or 5%. I use Sapim spokes almost exclusively so this allows me to build at higher tensions, usually 110-120 kgf fronts, same for nds rear, and 150-160 ds. Difference in tension in a rear wheel from nds to ds is about 40% depending on the sum of the parts.

gilbertador said:
to add to this ive been truing my own wheels but im concerned that repeatedly adding turns to 2 or 3 spokes near a buckle will weaken the wheel and the spokes, is there a maximum you should tension a spoke and the wheel

Retensioning a loose spoke would take sometimes a few turns to get back to proper tension, that just means that whoever built the wheel in the beginning didn't use a locking compound on the spoke threads, or not enough, not good. Most important thing to consider while you're doing this is even tension, and yes, there is a point where you'll eventually break a spoke, especially if you're tension is off. Spokes these days are breaking at about 250-350 kgf.

It's not enough to make a wheel visually true without dealing with tension, this is why sooooooo many machine built wheels need truing after only a few rides. I cannot emphasize tension enough, it's gotta be Even Steven.
 
Feb 15, 2011
14
0
0
Thanks. It takes me longer. And my results are not at good. Need more practice, more patience.
 
Jul 10, 2010
2,906
1
0
Bustedknuckle said:
Yep, been doing it for 27 years and it still is a challenge, in a GOOD way.

My regular ride these days is a city bike, but the shift mech broke a couple weeks back. That bike is still sitting in the shop, waiting on me to get time to replace the shifting mech.

So I pulled out my old dual purpose single speed /fixie. Ancient Univega steel frame - haven't ridden this bike in a few years now. Over at a neighbors - he was checking the steed. Whilst describing some of the details - it was an urban undercover commando kind of bike that I built up - black and battleship grey re-paint, I happened to notice that the front wheel was the very first one I ever built - 14g galvanized spokes, 3 cross, super skinny rim - like 19mm - might have been mavic, maybe ambrosio, but no telling now. Still going strong. It's rear mate finally started blowing spokes - which I replaced just to see how long I could keep a rim going. It went another summer, then I started seeing fracturing around the spoke holes and ditched it. That front rim is 30+ years old.

Oh - and as for tensioning - I still believe for alloy or steel rims Brandt's method is the numero uno technique known to man. I'm told carbon rims are different. Wouldn't know - never done one, don't plan to.