After doing one defunct early-season Latin American race, I thought I’d go with a more active one. I’ve long been trying to come up with things in Venezuela, as it is, after Colombia, the most cycling-passionate nation in Latin America; it has insane variety and potential for race routes, and geographically and culturally it’s an interesting place. The big problem has always been finding a route that I’m happy with, because there’s so much choice; it’s why I’ve not done a national tour of either Colombia
or Venezuela despite having editions sort-of complete for months, even years; every time I think I am sorted, I discover something new I want to include, and then it requires a lot more adjustment and eventually we’re back to the drawing board.
Doing
this enables me to take a different tack, however; one area in Venezuela has more cycling history, passion and culture than any other, and it has its own race which is arguably more prestigious than the national race - and that region is the westerly, Andean province of Táchira, on the border with Colombia. While the Vuelta a Venezuela has run since 1963, the Vuelta al Táchira is barely any younger, starting in 1966, and hasn’t had any breaks where’s the national Tour has had a couple of cancellations in time or drops to amateur level. While the Vuelta al Táchira may not have stuck to its home location - indeed it has grown to be more of a regional tour than a simple tour of its own province, with stage hosts all over the neighbouring provinces - it has always retained a close link to its home, and the fact that it has maintained a very steady role in the national calendar, taking place in January, has made it a very important race on the Venezuelan schedule. This calendar location has also made it quite convenient as a pre-season tune-up race for teams from further afield, with the late 70s and early 80s seeing a number of Eastern Bloc teams travelling over here before the Vuelta a Cuba (indeed in 1982 and 1988, Ramazan Galyaletdinov and Vyacheslav Ekimov respectively even won the GC), and Italian and occasionally Spanish second- and third-tier teams have more recently elected to get their seasons started over here, most notably Savio’s mob when sponsored by Colombian or Venezuelan sponsors, and the post-Farnese Vini iterations of Scinto’s motley crew when the Venezuelan state helped sponsor them. Also, the Vuelta a Venezuela seems to like a lot of flat stages and circuit races, leading Táchira to be thought of as the “real” test of a Venezuelan GC man. And the crowds come out in their droves for it.
The first Vuelta al Táchira was a mere five-stage race contested by different regional teams representing regions of Colombia and Venezuela, but it was immediately conferred some prestige by Martín Emilio “Cochise” Rodríguez, the most important Colombian rider of the era, winning the inaugural edition and returning to win two more. At first, Colombians largely held sway; Vicencio Rivas became the first Venezuelan to win a stage when he took stage 2 of the second edition in 1967, but by and large Venezuelan wins were in flat stages, until 1969, the first year a home rider got on the GC podium as well, with Nicolás Reidtler achieving the feat. The race had reached 10 stages by 1970 and Reidtler would go one better the next year, but Santos Bermúdez would become the first home winner when he took the GC in 1973 and Reidtler would go on to be the race’s Poulidor, achieving five 2nd place finishes but never winning the GC. Early experiments included a first pass over the Santo Domingo pass - a shoulder of the Collado del Cóndor - in 1968, and stage hosts across the border in Colombia from 1971 when Pamplona (not
that Pamplona) hosted a stage finish. The Cubans would arrive in 1974, the likes of Carlos Cardet and Aldo Arencibia animating the race, before in 1975, the USSR, Poland and others would turn it into a cosmopolitan endeavour.
Over the years, as well as Cochise, major names to have won the race include José Patrocinio Jiménez, Álvaro Pachón, Cuban star Eduardo Alonso, Vyacheslav Ekimov, Hernán Buenahora and major Venezuelan names like Mario Medina and Leonardo Sierra, while the podium has been graced by the likes of Enrique Campos, former Giro KOMs Freddy Excelino González and his namesake José Jaime “Chepe” González, Savio team stalwarts Jackson Rodríguez and José Serpa and former GT GC candidate turned long-time exile in South America Óscar Sevilla. In 2015 one of the longest-standing records was broken when local favourite José Rujano Guillén won his fourth Vuelta al Táchira, making him the most successful rider ever at the race, breaking the record of Pachón and Rodríguez; perhaps for this reason it was the race he chose to be his last, retiring after finishing 18th in the 2021 edition, years after his peak and having “retired” multiple times already.
Rujano can win this Giro, says Savio
But perhaps the race’s most notorious appearance in cycling lore in recent years came in 2014, when race winner Jimmy Briceño had to be stripped of his title after a positive test for EPO and recording a mind-blowing hematocrit measurement of 63%, beyond even the levels of Bjarne Riis in the 90s. The race had always been known to harbour a fair amount of suspicious activity, shall we say, but “Mr 63%” as he came to be known semi-jokingly really seemed to be taking things to the next level. The race being the focal point of the Venezuelan calendar for climbing type riders has led to a relatively negative reputation around doping, however, and Briceño is far from alone in getting disqualifications or asterisked performances at the Vuelta al Táchira; he may be the only
winner to have got disqualified, but elsewhere there is something of a rogue’s gallery of riders in the GC or stage winners who have chequered history behind them - Briceño has also won the 2012 and 2019 editions, and the man who acquired the 2014 GC win, Carlos Galviz, also a couple of years later tested positive for EPO, placing him alongside 2011 winner Manuel Medina, Yonathán Monsalve, Miguel Ubeto, Óscar Sevilla, José Isidro Chacón and Juan Murillo as prominent riders at the Vuelta al Táchira to later see results expunged or come under a cloud following later positive tests.
“Señor Briceño, which performance enhancing substances did you use en route to your victory?” “Yes”
At its lengthiest, the Vuelta al Táchira reached 14 stages in duration, and would start all over Venezuela before heading towards Táchira for its final week or so of action. Starting in 1990, this role was usurped by the introduction of the Clásico Ciclístico Banfoandes, a sort of secondary Vuelta a Venezuela analogous to the Clásico RCN in Colombia or the Rutas de América in Uruguay, that was a tour of the country but unable to be called that as there was already a separate extant one. Sponsored by (of course) Banfoandes, the Andean banking conglomerate, the race would always finish in San Cristóbal, capital of the Táchira region, seeing as that was where the bank was headquartered. The Vuelta al Táchira at this stage would consolidate as less of a national race and more of a western race that took in Táchira and surrounding provinces such as Zulia, Mérida, Barinas and Trujillo. While it was still a two-week race as recently as 2011 (it was shortened from 12 stages to 10 in 2012), in recent years the race has reduced down to a consistent 8-stage duration, a bit shorter than its heyday, but still allowing for a strong race and with an extremely competitive (and often quite heavily enhanced) péloton (just look at some of the comments from Luca Scinto about some of the riders offered to him during the Venezuelan sponsorship - and bear in mind those are coming from somebody who signed
Danilo di Luca in
2013). I have included some circuits and some oddities to try to keep it semi-authentic in style, with short stage lengths and geographic foibles, but also to enjoy a bit of tracing around an area that, although well-trodden, also offers more than you might think that is new.
Also it makes it easier to design a Vuelta a Venezuela route in future if I’ve already given the lowdown on the cycling-friendly sites in Táchira state, of course.
Stage 1: San Cristóbal de Táchira - San Cristóbal de Táchira, 117km
GPM:
Monumento Honor al Ciclista (cat.3) 1,0km @ 5,3%
It will probably come as no surprise to you to see this, after all, most of you will be well aware that I am something of a sap when it comes to honouring tradition in these races; especially when doing these races off the beaten track I like to honour a bit of the history in the area, like including the Morgul-Bismarck Loop and the Tour of the Moon in my Tour of Colorado, or the Parque Erick Barrondo circuit in my Vuelta a Guatemala. The Vuelta al Táchira has, for many years, started and finished in San Cristóbal, the largest city of the province and its capital, and I’m not about to deviate from that template. I will deviate from it slightly, however, and that’s in that I am looking at a historic and traditional circuit, however this is a circuit that typically in recent years has been the closer of the race, but here it will be the opening.
Home to 280.000 people, San Cristóbal is the economic hub of the Táchira region, and after its establishment in 1561 has quickly grown as an important economic hub, not only for its rich and fertile soil that made this region a very important agricultural centre for Venezuela but also since independence and in more recent times because of its proximity to Colombia, enabling vast quantities of cross-border trade that has helped it remain a population centre and a trade hub to this day. Coffee, sugar, and fruit and vegetables (especially pineapples and corn) are abundant in the region and extensively farmed for this purpose, but the city has also grown rich from local production of ceramics and also, especially after the damage created by the Cúcuta Earthquake of 1875, excavation of oil wells helped enrich San Cristóbal - although once the far vaster reserves of nearby Zúlia state were discovered, Táchira was rather left behind as a result. However, its position as a trading hub have enabled it to establish a strong position in the banking sector and service industry professions, with important national institutions like Sofitasa and, formerly, Banfoandes, being based out of the city.
San Cristóbal has had many famous sons and daughters, some of the most notorious being Rafael Inchauspe Méndez, known as Nogales, a mercenary soldier who fought in many conflicts in the early 20th Century, including the Spanish-American War (for Spain), World War I (for the Ottoman Empire), participated in a failed coup against dictator Cipriano Castro and you might note from the above that he was on the losing side of all of them - he did however write many eyewitness accounts as part of his memoirs and gives us some of the most well-reported first-hand reports of the Armenian Genocide. It is also home to Isaías Medina Angarita, the founder of the Venezuelan Democratic Party and the first Venezuelan sitting president to visit the United States, which he did in 1944. Generally regarded as a centrist and a moderate, Medina nevertheless also helped establish Venezuela’s relations with China and the Soviet Union in 1943 and 1945, and helped complete Eleazar López Contreras’ work to transition Venezuela from a series of coups and juntas to a democratic republic. For a while, at least. A fellow San Cristobalense was a key part of the more recent political developments in the country, Francisco Javier Arias; a member of the clandestine opposition movement MBR-200 (the “Boliviarian Revolutionary Movement” founded by Hugo Chávez in 1982) and a participant in a failed 1992 coup, Arias had successfully captured Maracaibo when Chávez turned himself in; disillusioned by this, Arias split from MBR-200 and instead stood for La Causa R, becoming governor of Zúlia in 1995, but still backed Chávez’ presidential bids later on. However, he once again became distrustful of his former comrade, and even stood against him in the 2000 presidential elections, supported by a breakaway group of MBR-200 that would become known as Partido Unión. Eventually he would reconcile with Chávez and join his government in 2006, and even serve a second stint as governor of Zúlia from 2012 to 2017.
The city is also well known for its annual Feria de San Sebastián, a huge event at the end of every January which links numerous major events through the city including parades, concerts, ExpoTáchira, a huge exposition/exhibition event, and the event’s centrepiece, bullfighting. The Vuelta al Táchira is usually timed in January in order to coincide and be included within the festivities; the fair involved with the Feria de San Sebastián is the largest one in all of Venezuela, with agricultural, commercial and industrial segments and huge amounts of trade undertaken within the event’s confines, so small business and industry is focused elsewhere allowing for greater disruption to be possible and allow for the logistical restrictions necessary to enable the Vuelta al Táchira to close even some significant major roads in the area.
With that, it’s really not surprising that many of the top Venezuelan cyclists over the years have called San Cristóbal home, too. These include
Robinson Merchán (seen here on the left), who won the Pan-American Games Road Race in 1991; Moscow Olympians Mario Medina (a three-time GC winner at the Vuelta al Táchira who holds the record to this day for the most days in the leader’s jersey) and Jesús Torres;
Franklin Chacón, a national TT champion and Pan-American medallist in both the Team Pursuit and the road Time Trial, the unrelated Miguel Chacón, who won stages of the Vuelta a Venezuela and of Cuba in the same era;
Ronald González, who won the Vuelta al Táchira outright in 2009 and has twice finished on the podium since; and
Juan Murillo, a winner of countless stages of Latin American races through the late 2000s and 2010s until an EPO positive in 2017 at the Tour de Guadeloupe brought his career to a screeching halt. The city is also the adoptive home of the Colombian-born (in Cúcuta)
Rodolfo Antonio Camacho, a rider who settled in and represented Venezuela throughout his adult life and whose greatest triumph was to win self-same Tour de Guadeloupe in 2001, also winning multiple stages of the Vuelta al Táchira and the Vuelta a Venezuela. His story is tinged with tragedy, however; in August 2016 he and his 16-year-old son confronted intruders into his home in San Cristóbal, and for their troubles received fatal gunshot wounds by the fleeing invaders. He was 40 years old.
In addition to the Vuelta al Táchira, the Clásico Banfoandes and the Vuelta a Venezuela, San Cristóbal has also appeared on the route of the Vuelta a Colombia. It was not the first overseas host - Tulcán, in Ecuador, would host a stage finish in 1955 - but it was the first overseas départ, with stage 1 in the 1965 edition being a 120km stage from San Cristóbal de Táchira to Pamplona in Norte de Santander won by Gliserio Penagos, which served as the impetus necessary to start the local race, which held its first edition a year later in 1966. The same edition of the Vuelta a Colombia would also see Táchira start a long tradition of providing a team to compete in the race, consisting of the top local riders, sponsored mainly by Lotería del Táchira (whose teams have won 19 editions of the local race but none at the Vuelta a Colombia to date).
All this cycling heritage may go some way to explaining why San Cristóbal became the host of the first UCI World Championships to be held in South America, when it was chosen to organise the 1977 World Championships. Held on a 16,9km circuit which included a long but gradual ascent within the city called Las Pilas (3,9km @ 4,6%), the race would be won by Francesco Moser in a two-up sprint against Dietrich Thurau, in a race perhaps best known as the final World Championships of both Raymond Poulidor and Eddy Merckx, who would finish together at the back of the remaining péloton and be the last two classified finishers.
Here is Lasterketa Burua’s approximation.
Moser wins the World Championships in San Cristóbal
However, surprisingly, while the Vuelta al Táchira has frequently, almost invariably, included at least one circuit race in San Cristóbal, it has been very rare to see the 1977 Worlds course, instead we usually see a shorter, flatter course known as the Circuito Santos Rafael Bermúdez, named of course for the first home winner of the race.
This circuit is a largely out-and-back affair which starts and finishes at the same spot as the World Championships did back then, but is a shorter route which takes place mostly on Avenida España and Avenida 19. Abril. This circuit has in recent years typically been the site on which the final day’s racing has taken place, with the final lap then seeing the riders head up to the velodrome for the stage finish; we’re not going to be looking at a velodrome finish on stage 1, so we will have to settle for mimicking the 1977 World Championships finish, just using the Circuito Santos Rafael Bermúdez en route. It’s not always been this way - indeed many stages here have been pure circuit races, as has been the case whenever the circuit race is
not held on the final day - but it has been a feature of the race ever since 1978, with prominent previous winners on the circuit including Vyacheslav Ekimov twice, and Yonathan Monsalve no fewer than four times.
Péloton on the Circuito Santos Rafael Bermúdez
Standard circuit stage
What you may notice, however, is that despite the circuits being identical, the stage lengths tend to vary slightly, and that is because of that velodrome finish being sometimes appended. I have elected to retain the finish on the World Championships finish line, as mentioned, to keep the finale in the velodrome from being used on the first day of the race when a bunch sprint is much more likely. So what are the features of the circuit? Well, it’s 9,75km in length and so 12 laps of the circuit makes up for a 117km stage length, and it includes a small ascent in the middle of the route, although it is not especially significant - a kilometre dead straight up the Avenida España, averaging a not-especially-threatening 5,3%. At the summit of the road, there is a monument to the history and tradition of cycling in Táchira, which depicts two early heroes of Venezuelan cycling, Mario Medina (mentioned earlier on) and Nicolás Reidtler (or Reytler, spellings have varied over the years) - I mentioned him in the preamble, being the Raymond Poulidor of the Vuelta al Táchira, finishing 2nd 5 times and 3rd once without ever successfully winning his home race. He did, however, win the Vuelta a Venezuela twice, in 1967 and 1971.
Monumento Honor al Ciclista
After passing the monument, the circuit loops around the outside of the sporting complex at the east end of the city (hence the climb up to it as the city is on the shoulder of mountains) taking us around the Plaza de Toros Monumental and then back onto the out-and-back part of the route. The circuit includes a small chance for an outcome other than a sprint, and the Vuelta al Táchira is hardly a race renowned as being friendly to the sprinters (despite having at least a couple of flat stages most years), so we do have the potential of other outcomes, but the Circuito Santos Bermúdez being on stage 1 instead of the final stage in this particular route means we’re more likely to see a sprint here.