What difference will a newer bike make?

[keneldridge]

I'm new to cycling (generally new to exercising period). About a year ago I started running on a regular basis. I've really been enjoying it. Lately though, I've wanted to branch out a bit and try cycling.

Instead of spending a lot of money on a nice road bike right off the bat, I picked up a 30 year old Motobecane. It's been a couple months now and I have enjoyed riding it.

What difference will a newer bike make? Right now, I'm comfortable on a 20-25 mile ride at around 15-16mph. Given a similar effort, what speed difference would I likely see with a new bike? Obviously, the quality of the new bike makes a difference. I guess, that is also part of my question. Where does the law of diminishing returns come into play when buying a bike? Perhaps, if someone could just point me to a good article or thread.

Thanks.

 

[GazelleFormula]

Interesting topic. I ride a 23yr old Gazelle Formula and recently tried to answer the same question by going for a ride on my friends brand new carbon Giant.

Main differences I found were in comfort, bike position, gear switches and acceleration. Positioning on the bike is more aggressive, so automatically I rode higher cruise speed due to a smaller frontal area (I would say 2kph higher with similar heart rate on a similar route). At the same time, comfort on the bike was actually better, although that may be because my old bike's measurements just don't fit me very well.

The difference in weight isn't even that big (10.5 vs 8.5kg) but the new bike was noticeably quicker when pulling away from a standstill and accelerating from 25-30kph felt easier as well.

Also, the quick/smooth gear changes on roads with changing gradients helped me get some Strava PR's that I just cannot beat on my old bike with frame shifters anymore.

So yeah, you will notice the difference in speed when you buy a new bike. Hard to say just how much, and I really haven't go a clue what the difference between a $2500 high end carbon racer or $1000 value racer will be.

 

[The Cobra]

I'm new to cycling (generally new to exercising period). About a year ago I started running on a regular basis. I've really been enjoying it. Lately though, I've wanted to branch out a bit and try cycling.

Instead of spending a lot of money on a nice rode bike right off the bat, I picked up a 30 year old Motobecane. It's been a couple months now and I have enjoyed riding it.

What difference will a newer bike make? Right now, I'm comfortable on a 20-25 mile ride at around 15-16mph. Given a similar effort, what speed difference would I likely see with a new bike? Obviously, the quality of the new bike makes a difference. I guess, that is also part of my question. Where does the law of diminishing returns come into play when buying a bike? Perhaps, if someone could just point me to a good article or thread.

Thanks.

From my experience buying a new bike does make some difference, but not a whole lot. If you were slow on an old bike you are only going to be marginally less slow on a new bike. You might be able to do ride one gear bigger. Also factor in its much nicer to ride a new bike, therefore you train more and get fitter and faster that way.

I dont know your budget, or what type of riding you are planning on doing. Just for training or are you wanting to race on it too? For training only a bike of around £750-£1500 will be very nice and more than good enough. If you want something more bling and a bit lighter for racing you're looking at £1500-£2500. Unless you have loads of money I wouldn't spend anymore than that as you're getting in the realms of very small gains for huge amounts of cash.

 

[Alpe d'Huez]

In my experience the biggest factor is psychological. That being, if it makes you happy, you will ride it more, and you will put more effort into the riding, making it more enjoyable, and increasing your fitness.

On a pure technical level, it would have to be quite the technological jump to show a difference, as Cobra notes.

 

[JayKosta]

The most important mechanical part for performance is the wheels - and especially the tires and tubes.
Your Motobecane probably has fairly heavy tires and tubes - perhaps 27X1.25, or maybe 700Cx32 - that is a good size for a very durable, long lasting tire when 'performance' isn't a concern.
They are good for long miles and you'll get lots of exercise riding on them.

For a more snappy feel and better performance, get more narrow tires (with lower weight), and perhaps lighter weight innertubes.
The downside is that as the tires and tubes get lighter, they get more expensive and the durability can be less.

My speed and fun decreases drastically when I have to stop to fix a flat tire....

Another easy improvement is to add toe clips and straps to your pedals, if they don't have them.
Yes, clips and straps are 'old school' but they make a big improvement, even with the straps loose enough so your foot isn't 'locked in', and they work fine with regular shoes.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

 

[keneldridge]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Sounds like sticking with my old ride is pretty reasonable.

 

[Notso Swift]

Nothing wrong with an old ride as long as it is safe and comfortable, but I would REALLY look at a set of shoes and pedals, I would not say clips and straps like Jay has said, I think they are not the best option
I would say either a second hand road pedal that some one has upgraded from or if you want to keep it to the "trainer" look and get some mountain/touring bike

After a good fit and pedals make the next biggest difference in my opinion

 

[avanti]

I just returned from a vacation during which I rented a 2012 road bike with 105 equipment. How was it better than my 2008 road bike with Ultegra? Braking and shifting were far better on the 2012 bike; probably due to product improvement combined with the gear on my 2008 bike wearing out.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

In my experience the biggest factor is psychological. That being, if it makes you happy, you will ride it more, and you will put more effort into the riding, making it more enjoyable, and increasing your fitness.

On a pure technical level, it would have to be quite the technological jump to show a difference, as Cobra notes.

If you are a slow rider, a new bike won't help. If you are a strong rider, a new bike won't make any difference.

 

[durianrider]

Depends which bike fits you better. A poorly fitted bike or a correctly fitted bike with a slipped seat post from 2012 will not let you ride as well as a properly fitted bike from 1967.

Bike fit is the biggest factor.

Safety is another factor. Did that old bike have some big crashes that caused stress fractures in the fork steerer?

Are the bars and stem safe?

Im ALL about living sustainably AND Im all about safety too. My alloy bars/stem go in the recycling bin every few years even if they look fine.

 

[runninboy]

Im ALL about living sustainably AND Im all about safety too. My alloy bars/stem go in the recycling bin every few years even if they look fine.

well that seems to be a contradiction there. Recycling something that is fine in it's present state is wasteful. I don't know how hard you are on equipment, but IME i have never had a stem or bar crack or fail in anyway in roughly 30 years. You may be cautious but buying new equipment while discarding the same is not "living sustainably".

 

[Oldman]

In my experience the biggest factor is psychological. That being, if it makes you happy, you will ride it more, and you will put more effort into the riding, making it more enjoyable, and increasing your fitness.

On a pure technical level, it would have to be quite the technological jump to show a difference, as Cobra notes.

Alpe; we have owned enough bikes to know the happiness factor is the most important. It's no different than the one you got on Christmas Day as a lucky child; it's a new toy.

 

[messycolin]

Alpe; we have owned enough bikes to know the happiness factor is the most important. It's no different than the one you got on Christmas Day as a lucky child; it's a new toy.

All true. But also bear in mind also that depending on how much tlc your old bike has had if you need to replace bottom bracket, gears, chains, cables, chain rings, brakeblocks etc the replacement costs take you into the range of a new bike. And given you have an old bike, getting spares becomes more difficult.

A new bike is insanely cheap as a production job in comparison to a build your own project these days. It almost seems cheaper to buy a new bike, take the components off and dump the frame on ebay.(if you already have a good frame. Or vice versa. There are some awesome frames with middling groupsets also around)

Well, this helped me justify a new bike

20 years ago when i went from 14 to 18 gears, this was nice benefit. It didn't make me go any faster but it made the choice of gearing while riding wider.

 

[purpletezza]

In my experience the biggest factor is psychological. That being, if it makes you happy, you will ride it more, and you will put more effort into the riding, making it more enjoyable, and increasing your fitness.

On a pure technical level, it would have to be quite the technological jump to show a difference, as Cobra notes.

Here is an example of how a "new" bike can have a positive outcome.

My brother has a bottom of the range LeMond roadbike. It has a heavy steel frame, heavy wheels and mix-match low end groupset. He has had it for a maybe 5-6 years and never really had too many good experiences on it.

He has recently wanted to get back to riding so I have lent him one of my road bikes. It's a 2005 Specialised E5 SWORKS with 7800 DuraAce and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels. Weighs about 7.4kg.

I had a message from him:
"Went out and rode your bike for an hour today. I love it. It feels like it is just pushing you along!"

That's why a new bike is great.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Depends which bike fits you better. A poorly fitted bike or a correctly fitted bike with a slipped seat post from 2012 will not let you ride as well as a properly fitted bike from 1967.

Bike fit is the biggest factor.

Safety is another factor. Did that old bike have some big crashes that caused stress fractures in the fork steerer?

Are the bars and stem safe?

Im ALL about living sustainably AND Im all about safety too. My alloy bars/stem go in the recycling bin every few years even if they look fine.

Then you are buying stuff that's too light. Do ya really think saving 200 grams or so on ubderlight stuff makes any difference?

I have had TTT Merckx bend handlebars and quill stem for 20 years or so...I'm .1 offa ton..but I don't worry about them.

 

[The Gnome]

"Im ALL about living sustainably AND Im all about safety too. My alloy bars/stem go in the recycling bin every few years even if they look fine."

lol...living sustainably? actually, you are just keeping the production process running along just fine...

you are seriously confused if you think those parts are going to break every few years...like busted I have been running alloy bars and quill stems for a couple of decades...they ain't going to break...

 

[Master50]

In the years I raced I swapped out my stem after maybe 5 years and my bars about 3 years and at the time that was the rule. In fact Pro teams often change bars every season. Some classics riders change bars after the classics.
Except for a front rolled tire or collapsed front wheel I can think of nothing scarier than a broken bar or stem.
Now materials have changed a lot since the 1980s but lightweight aluminum bars still break from fatigue as do stems.
I prefer sustained front teeth over this advice It is true I don't see a lot of broken bars but I do hear a broken bar story from someone in the cycling community every year.
Maybe my replacement schedule is less sustainable (what ever that really means) but teeth only grow once.
Now Carbon bars! Never replace them unless you crashed or crushed them with your tri bars.

 

[Dr. Maserati]

The most important mechanical part for performance is the wheels - and especially the tires and tubes.
Your Motobecane probably has fairly heavy tires and tubes - perhaps 27X1.25, or maybe 700Cx32 - that is a good size for a very durable, long lasting tire when 'performance' isn't a concern.
They are good for long miles and you'll get lots of exercise riding on them.

For a more snappy feel and better performance, get more narrow tires (with lower weight), and perhaps lighter weight innertubes.
The downside is that as the tires and tubes get lighter, they get more expensive and the durability can be less.

My speed and fun decreases drastically when I have to stop to fix a flat tire....

Another easy improvement is to add toe clips and straps to your pedals, if they don't have them.
Yes, clips and straps are 'old school' but they make a big improvement, even with the straps loose enough so your foot isn't 'locked in', and they work fine with regular shoes.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Agree.
I have 2 bikes, in 2 different locations - so i have not been able to test times etc. One is my trusty steel bike -the other carbon. Both are great. Obviously there is a weight difference, but the biggest difference is the wheels, which I have swaped around. (I have same tires & tubes on all).

But to the OP - in my view, having a properly maintained bike is more important than all other things.

 

[phabad]

difference of a new bike

A new bike would really be important if you are competing. If you are comfortable with your old bike then I dont see a reason why you should get one. A really good bike would cost you a couple of thousand but if you are looking for something just for the sake of something new a lot of stores do price cuts http://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/road-bikes/ this is where I purchased the bike I gave to my partner so she can start joining me for rides.