What is the Campagnolo neutron ultra rim weight?

[altermod]

I've been interested in picking up some Neutron Ultras and was curious if anyone knows how much the rims alone weigh?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

I've been interested in picking up some Neutron Ultras and was curious if anyone knows how much the rims alone weigh?

What's your reasoning for wanting to know rim weight? Campy gives you wheel weights on their site. They're light enough.

 

[altermod]

Just curious. I'm considering whether I should get a pair of Neutrons (complimentary factor) or get a pair of conservatively light rims laced up. I have a special edition bike that was built up all black and I really dig the black hubs, spokes, rims of the Neutrons. Plus I've heard good things about the wheels. Having Campy wheels matched to my Campy bike looks really nice too.

I know the Campy built wheels aren't the lightest but I just wanted to know where the weight is being distributed, hubs vs rims etc.

It would be nice if Campy listed rim weights of their wheels just for reference.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

custom build is the way to go, it doesn't get any better, that's what I do. Campy does make a nice wheel, and they do list the weights for the wheels on the site;

630g front
840g rear

1470 is pretty light, the rims would be around the 400g mark. Grams don't matter anyway. I don't care if you're Marco Pantani reincarnate, you're still going to win the same amount of races regardless of 100g hear or there. Get my meaning?

 

[altermod]

Yeah, I've had some nice custom built wheels. I do like the way the Neutrons look though. Thats the style driven part of me talking. The practical part of me knows that a custom laced wheel is the most serviceable, cheaper, and easily maintainable route.

The next question would be what is a good lightweight, durable, rim? I've had Velocity Aeroheads but they seem hit and miss on the quality control. Are the Stans no-tubes rims any good? They're pretty darn light too at 350grams/rim.

I know 100g ain't gonna make me a Pantani. But to say the weight of the rim isn't a consideration is unrealistic too. I do alot of climbing where I am so it definitely helps me when the pitch kicks up.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Yeah, I've had some nice custom built wheels. I do like the way the Neutrons look though. Thats the style driven part of me talking. The practical part of me knows that a custom laced wheel is the most serviceable, cheaper, and easily maintainable route.

The next question would be what is a good lightweight, durable, rim? I've had Velocity Aeroheads but they seem hit and miss on the quality control. Are the Stans no-tubes rims any good? They're pretty darn light too at 350grams/rim.

I know 100g ain't gonna make me a Pantani. But to say the weight of the rim isn't a consideration is unrealistic too. I do alot of climbing where I am so it definitely helps me when the pitch kicks up.

Style or practicality, hmmm seems like an easy choice.

The Velocity of now is not the Velocity of old, I've had some questionable Aeroheads too from them in the past.. In the last couple of years their rim designs and QC have really been on the up and up. I use their A23's and Major Toms quite extensively. Stan's are only good if you're less than 160lbs. Not recommended.

Don't let the marketers fool you, grams mean nothing, even less if you're not racing. Personally I'd rather have a custom built set rather than off the shelf for many reasons, style also being one of them, not paramount but also important. Bike guys know.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

I'll tell you about a Stan's Alpha 340 build for a long time customer of mine.

155lb guy, helluva climber, said they felt noodley. I told him that they're only achieving that weight because the rim extrusion is thinner, mind you before the build. He was insistent on saving the grams, so I build. What happend? Wet noodles.

What's the point of manufacturing a rim that's less than 100g from the standard 430ish rims, not as durable, as stiff, not to mention half the lifespan? Because it's easy to convince people that 80g really means something.

 

[altermod]

RDV4ROUBAIX,

I'll take your word and look into the Velocities again. I have a pair of Velomax Ascent hubs 24 rear 18 front. The rear used the Aerohead Off Center rim. The front rim has some hops from a bad pothole hit. I was thinking of having the wheels rebuilt. How would you recommend them to be rebuilt? Should I go with the Aerohead OC rim or try out the A23 rims? What would be good spokes? Should I get new spokes or use the originals? They are threaded on each end. Do I get someone to cut me some customs? Thanks.

 

[gregod]

Just curious. I'm considering whether I should get a pair of Neutrons (complimentary factor) or get a pair of conservatively light rims laced up. I have a special edition bike that was built up all black and I really dig the black hubs, spokes, rims of the Neutrons. Plus I've heard good things about the wheels. Having Campy wheels matched to my Campy bike looks really nice too.

I know the Campy built wheels aren't the lightest but I just wanted to know where the weight is being distributed, hubs vs rims etc.

It would be nice if Campy listed rim weights of their wheels just for reference.

RDV pretty much covered everything, but i am like you in that whenever i can have something with campagnolo stamped on it, i buy it. all of my bikes have campy groupos with campy wheels. i have barcelona rims with record hubs, omega rims with very old athena hubs, neutrons (carbon tubular and aluminum tubular) and boras (aluminum/carbon tubular and carbon tubular) (and more money than sense). i also have a pair of lightweights. my favorites are the barcelonas. they are strong and responsive and braking is great, but unfortunately no longer made. a close second are the aluminum/carbon boras and the lightweights. the all carbon boras are good, but braking suffers when there is even a hint of humidity.

if i were buying a new pair of campy wheels today, i would probably buy shamal ultra tubulars or the 2-way fit tubeless.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Yeah, I've had some nice custom built wheels. I do like the way the Neutrons look though. Thats the style driven part of me talking. The practical part of me knows that a custom laced wheel is the most serviceable, cheaper, and easily maintainable route.

The next question would be what is a good lightweight, durable, rim? I've had Velocity Aeroheads but they seem hit and miss on the quality control. Are the Stans no-tubes rims any good? They're pretty darn light too at 350grams/rim.

I know 100g ain't gonna make me a Pantani. But to say the weight of the rim isn't a consideration is unrealistic too. I do alot of climbing where I am so it definitely helps me when the pitch kicks up.

Stans rims are junque, stay away. AH rims can make for a nice wheelset depending on spoke count, lacing, sp[oke type. They need to be designed according to the rider, their needs, requirements and weight and whether or not they are tough on wheels.

Kinlin rims can be light and work well as are DT 415s, workable as long as you are not a .1 off a ton, kill wheels type rider.

Some MO places will build anything you wish w/o regard for the rider. Poor design is poor design regardless of build quality. In my mind, if I were to build a wheelset that I knew wasn't going to be reliable, then the builder gets the hits, not the customer, even tho that's what they wanted. The wheelbuilder is the 'expert. or should be and direct the customer to the proper design.

100-200 grams on a 85,000++ gram package, rider and bike, means nothing unless the wheel fails, then it means a LOT.

 

[Vegan Dave]

I'll tell you about a Stan's Alpha 340 build for a long time customer of mine.

155lb guy, helluva climber, said they felt noodley. I told him that they're only achieving that weight because the rim extrusion is thinner, mind you before the build. He was insistent on saving the grams, so I build. What happend? Wet noodles.

What's the point of manufacturing a rim that's less than 100g from the standard 430ish rims, not as durable, as stiff, not to mention half the lifespan? Because it's easy to convince people that 80g really means something.

Or, the spoke nipples begin to burst through the rim, as happened to me with a 24h A340 rim.. Stan's said i should be riding a 32h. Low and behold, a week later, the 32h i had did the exact same thing. This rim was a real bomb. =(

Don't get me wrong, i love Stan's - their MTB rims/wheels are fab, and they've done so much for tubeless, and i'm so happy to be riding tubeless on the road now as well (one flat since November, and that was because i was riding a tube. And i ride 4-6 days a week all year.)

 

[altermod]

SO then maybe I'll give the A23s a shot? Maybe go 32 spoke on Chorus Hubs. I had a sweet riding pair of Aerohead 32s laced to Chorus hubs, dt swiss double butted, brass nipples.

So if I use 32 spoke hubs, Velocity A23 rims, what type of spokes and nipples should I go for? Can I save some weight and go Sapim CX or is there something better? Alloy nipples or Brass? Are there better rims than the A23s?

I weight 180 lbs, and live in Santa Barbara CA near the ocean. I do a lot of rollers and climbs even though I'm 15 lbs over my old racing weight. I hope to get back down to 172 maybe. I'm also a surfer so I can't help but put on dead weight to my upper body from paddling a surfboard. I used to be more of a sprinter, crit guy. But I haven't raced in years. I want to get back into it though. Just a little background info. Thanks.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

SO then maybe I'll give the A23s a shot? Maybe go 32 spoke on Chorus Hubs. I had a sweet riding pair of Aerohead 32s laced to Chorus hubs, dt swiss double butted, brass nipples.

So if I use 32 spoke hubs, Velocity A23 rims, what type of spokes and nipples should I go for? Can I save some weight and go Sapim CX or is there something better? Alloy nipples or Brass? Are there better rims than the A23s?

I weight 180 lbs, and live in Santa Barbara CA near the ocean. I do a lot of rollers and climbs even though I'm 15 lbs over my old racing weight. I hope to get back down to 172 maybe. I'm also a surfer so I can't help but put on dead weight to my upper body from paddling a surfboard. I used to be more of a sprinter, crit guy. But I haven't raced in years. I want to get back into it though. Just a little background info. Thanks.

Yes, 32h 3x, A23's, perfect combo. Spokes and nips don't matter, Sapim CXR are really only 'race only' spokes, very expensive too. DT Comp, Sapim Race db 1.8/2.0 is where you want to be. I don't think there's much better than the A23, or any of the 23 wide rims right now. HED, who is credited for the 23mm rims have the "Belgium" rim, slightly heavier than the A23. Handling is slightly improved over a 19-20mm rim. I like 23 wide because I don't run anything under 25.

 

[steelciocc]

Jones Precision Wheels

altermod - Go see John Jones at the Bicycle Bob's on Hitchcock. He is a great wheelbuilder (on the side) and will do you right. Tell him Rick sent you.

His website: jonesprecisionwheels.com

 

[altermod]

So funny thats who my gf told me to go see! I guess I have to go talk to him now.

Thanks for all the help guys.

One more question, I have a bunch of Veloflex Pave 21mm tires. Can I still use them with the Velocity A32 rim? What would be the drawback vs using 23mm tires?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

So funny thats who my gf told me to go see! I guess I have to go talk to him now.

Thanks for all the help guys.

One more question, I have a bunch of Veloflex Pave 21mm tires. Can I still use them with the Velocity A32 rim? What would be the drawback vs using 23mm tires?

You can mount them on a 23 wide rim, but I wouldn't ride it, defeats the whole idea of a rim/tire match. Unless you're doing TT or Tri, there's no reason for that small of a tire anymore, plus they ride like shit anyway.