wheels n tyres for Roubaix

[Archibald]

okay, so I'll be doing Paris-Roubaix this year and hitting the Pave (hopefully not literally).
For tyres, I'm considering Conti Ultra Gatorskins 700x28c - cheap and likely to be only used for this trip.

For wheels, I have Mavic CXP33's (ultegra hubs) on the bike, but probably should have something better...

Thoughts and suggestions on options?

 

[Wallace]

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/r...ete-handbuilt-tubular-wheelset-6331.41.1.html

 

[lostintime]

Your current wheels are fine IF they were built well to start with. How they are built is as important as your hubs and rims.

Old schoolers like to use good ol' box rims for the rough stuff, but if this is a one time event it's not worth having some built for you. If you have the cash, go for it.

Clinchers are fine for us non professionals. Tubulars are a PITA unless you have a support vehicle riding behind you to give you a new wheel in case of a puncture.

 

[LugHugger]

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/r...ete-handbuilt-tubular-wheelset-6331.41.1.html

forget using tubs for P-R Sportive. You are HIGHLY likely to flat and replacing tubs on course, especially if wet (unlikely in July granted) is a pain in the ****.
go for well-built 32 spokes on box rims sure and use the Ultra Gatorskins, you won't suffer. if you're feeling like splashing out and want to look like a pro (without the hassle of tubs) then go for Vittoria Open Pave EVO Pave CG's, although in my experience they cut too easily for the expense. My recommendation would be Conti GP 4 Seasons - 25 front/ 28 rear.

 

[53 x 11]

okay, so I'll be doing Paris-Roubaix this year and hitting the Pave (hopefully not literally).
For tyres, I'm considering Conti Ultra Gatorskins 700x28c - cheap and likely to be only used for this trip.

For wheels, I have Mavic CXP33's (ultegra hubs) on the bike, but probably should have something better...

Thoughts and suggestions on options?

According to Zipp you need carbon Zipps.........

But seriously your wheels, if they are well built and 32 spoke three cross, should do the job.

 

[Archibald]

According to Zipp you need carbon Zipps.........

But seriously your wheels, if they are well built and 32 spoke three cross, should do the job.

not sure what you mean by "three cross", but they are 32 spoke

 

[analo69]

It is the spoke configuration. Look at the link to the ambrosios. They have the same spoke configuration.

 

[Archibald]

excellent.
looks like I have the same configuration.

would I then be correct to believe that I will be fine on the current CXP33's as long as I get the wheels serviced and re-trued (if needed) by a good wheel builder?

25 front/ 28 rear.

out of curiosity, why 25 on the front?

 

[analo69]

Lighter without so many spokes. Due to lower weight on the front wheel not so many spokes are needed.

You often see less spokes on the front wheel.

 

[James Huang]

I believe "25/28" is referring to the front/rear tire widths, not the spoke counts. Not a terrible idea since there's more weight on the rear wheel but in all honesty, I'd use the biggest tires that will fit through the stays and fork legs. The cobbles will obliterate your hands, too, so a little more cushion up front would be good to have. No penalty in rolling resistance (and arguably an improvement) and only a minimal one in terms of weight. The cobbles are brutal - don't underestimate them.

 

[TheDude]

Yeah, the 28mm Gatorskins is probably what I would ride. Nice box-rim 3-cross 32 spoke (or go old school with 36 count, which starts to approach 4-cross land) wheels. Carry a folding tyre as well as spare tubes unless this is a supported ride.

 

[LugHugger]

I believe "25/28" is referring to the front/rear tire widths, not the spoke counts. Not a terrible idea since there's more weight on the rear wheel but in all honesty, I'd use the biggest tires that will fit through the stays and fork legs. The cobbles will obliterate your hands, too, so a little more cushion up front would be good to have. No penalty in rolling resistance (and arguably an improvement) and only a minimal one in terms of weight. The cobbles are brutal - don't underestimate them.

as james alludes to, 'normal' road forks can have clearance issues with a tyre over 25mm, especially in wet winter conditions in northern france. this is certainly true of my ouzo pro's. can't vouch for other brands though.

the cobbles will punish your hands and i set up with 4.5 specialized bar phat to help get me through my trips to flanders/nord.

 

[TheDude]

Yeah - nothing wrong with two wraps of gel tape as long as you have big hands. and the best gloves money can buy.

Good reminder on spacing. I have a couple old steel frames and a nice cross bike, so I foreget modern frames often won't take over a 25mm tyre.

 

[Archibald]

LugHugger, are you puting that Bar Phat on your hoods? or purely riding on the flats of your bars?
Have been trying to find a pair of gloves with major padding, but am thinking of getting a smallish pair and then puting an XXL pair over the top.

James, for those "brutal" cobbles, are there any suggested tips for actually riding them?

Thanks for all your advice folks!!

 

[James Huang]

archibald:

This will sound counterintuitive but your best strategy for riding the cobbles is to ride them as fast as possible while also doing the best you can at keeping a loose grip on the bars. The idea is to basically just 'clip' the tops of the cobbles instead of falling into the valleys and let the bike float beneath you instead of trying to maintain a death grip on the bars. Just keep thinking to yourself that you want to be 'light' on the bike.

Also, try to spot your line before entering the various secteurs. The crown of the road is often the least bumpy but a lot of times there will also be a much more reasonable gutter on the side.

Whatever you do, just don't bog down too much! Once you drop below that 'magic' speed, things get much, much bumpier and the cobbles become much harder to ride.

Hope that helps and good luck!

 

[analo69]

Cobbles are ridicoulous hard. In my town we have some cobbled streets and a few kilometers on those make my hands numb even when I ride a bike with 28mm tyres.

I cant imagine how it is to ride 50 of 250 km on cobbles with 40+ kmh. Respect to Cancellara, Boonen, O'grady and all the other pros having the time of their life on Carrefour d'lhabre (spelling?).

What tyre pressure do the pros use when riding the cobbled classics. A little bit less than normal?

 

[LugHugger]

LugHugger, are you puting that Bar Phat on your hoods? or purely riding on the flats of your bars?
Have been trying to find a pair of gloves with major padding, but am thinking of getting a smallish pair and then puting an XXL pair over the top.

James, for those "brutal" cobbles, are there any suggested tips for actually riding them?

Thanks for all your advice folks!!

no phat on the hoods - just on the top of the bars and in the drops. as james says, the best technique is to try and float over the cobbles. try to keep a loose grip on the bar tops (not the hoods) and steer more by shifting body weight than turning the bars. try and keep in the middle of the road on the cobbled sections, you'll have more room to maneuver if you're riding in a bunch. too many people ride in the gutter when riding the cobbles and end up in a ditch or field when a rider flats/crashes in front of them. keep your eyes 20-30 metres up the road, don't look at your front wheel. stick with your regular gloves and insulate your bars, not your hands. and keep your cadence high. can't speak for the pro's but i keep my tyre pressure at 100 front/105 rear. any lower and i pinch flat although that's possibly more a reflection on my technique. bon chance.

 

[Archibald]

hmmm... sounds a little like some mtb techniques through rocky singletrack where you lift slightly off the bike and let it just go over the top of it all while you stay fairly well intact above it all. not sure that will work for several k's, but it's pretty much that floating over the top thing with a good momentum (speed) to "skim" the tops of the bumps rather than go through all the "valleys" between rocks, bumps... again, watching further up the trail and picking your line...
if that all made sense!

either way, it's a staying light on the bike and letting it flow over it all than through it.

I regularly travel at around 30kmh - will that suffice, or should I push it out over the cobbles and travel at a higher speed?

reckon i might try and source some sorbethane (sp?) which is supposedly a brilliant shock absorbing material for the bars too.

 

[Archibald]

archibald:

This will sound counterintuitive but your best strategy for riding the cobbles is to ride them as fast as possible while also doing the best you can at keeping a loose grip on the bars. The idea is to basically just 'clip' the tops of the cobbles instead of falling into the valleys and let the bike float beneath you instead of trying to maintain a death grip on the bars. Just keep thinking to yourself that you want to be 'light' on the bike.

Also, try to spot your line before entering the various secteurs. The crown of the road is often the least bumpy but a lot of times there will also be a much more reasonable gutter on the side.

Whatever you do, just don't bog down too much! Once you drop below that 'magic' speed, things get much, much bumpier and the cobbles become much harder to ride.

Hope that helps and good luck!

cheers for that James! just having a re-read with a few days to go before doing heading over.
what's the "magic speed" you speak of?

I've gel for the bars and will wrap a second cork bar tape on the flats to put them in place.
have 25c for the front and 28c for the rear, although found that the 28c will fit the front, so am looking for a 28c (conti ultra gatorskins).
still a bit short on k's in the legs, but will just have to suck it up.

any word on that speed will be great thanks people.

 

[James Huang]

Can't say what exactly that 'magic speed' is (wasn't exactly free to peek at my computer!) but you'll know it when you hit it as your bike will start to just clip the tops of the cobbles and not dip in between each one as badly. Just be careful as to what's coming up ahead of you, though, because you can still pinch flat if there's an exposed square edge.

If you can fit that 28mm up front, definitely do so. Air volume will be your best friend on those things.

Have fun!

 

[Archibald]

Can't say what exactly that 'magic speed' is (wasn't exactly free to peek at my computer!) but you'll know it when you hit it as your bike will start to just clip the tops of the cobbles and not dip in between each one as badly. Just be careful as to what's coming up ahead of you, though, because you can still pinch flat if there's an exposed square edge.

If you can fit that 28mm up front, definitely do so. Air volume will be your best friend on those things.

Have fun!

thanks James!

28c fits the front, i just need it to arrive in time (was going to use the 25c, but tried the 28 on the front to see the other day) - almost none in stock anywhere but amazon

will run at around 100psi - or would it be better to be around 90 or 95?

 

[bommels]

Good for you going for the sportive PR!

Did it years ago but still remember not being able to type for two days after. But what an experience!

The things I was really pleased with were my steel frame with a long wheelbase, nicely curved steel fork, and 30mm tyres. The 48t chainring allowed to maintain speed without stalling on the cobbled sections, conserving the option to shift up/down. I remember running a slightly larger gear than usual got me over the cobbles just fine.

I wouldn't worry about the exact tyre pressure, it also depends on the conditions I suppose. I think tyre width is more important than varying the pressure +/- 5%. Although I didn't suffer a flat myself, I remember some of the sections being lined by riders mending punctures

And do check/tighten/secure all nuts&bolts on your bike. From the rubble on the roadside you could see that everything that could come off did come off eventually!

Have fun...

 

[Archibald]

Actually just doing an organised tour ride this saturday before watching the race with the same group.
If it goes well, I may sign up for the sportive in June. Not confident, though, as my prep has been hampered by recently spending 2 months off the bike with a back injury, followed by a week of gastro, so have only managed to build up to about 80kms of undulating english countryside riding...

Cheers for the gearing tip!

 

[Archibald]

Thanks for all the advice people! Had a blast on the cobbles. Arenberg was brutal, but pretty much forgot everything when there and left the forest with blisters. Soldiered on and stayed light on the bike and bars with all going well. 28mm Gatorskins (ultra duraskin) at 90-95psi ran fine with no punctures. The longer it went the better I got on the cobbles and strangely enjoyed it.

One tip for anyone else reading this - make sure your bottle cages are super firm as I lost one in the Forest that fell between my cranks, foot and frame onto the chainrings demolishing it...

Thanks again.

 

[bommels]

Cheers for the report, glad to see you enjoyed it!

...make sure your bottle cages are super firm as I lost one in the Forest ...

Told you so (sorry, couldn't resist)