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Which climbing wheelset?

Apr 25, 2009
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I'm in the market for a new climbing wheelset, either a factory set or getting a pair built. If I'm going to spend some money I want something that is going to be light! 1000g +/- or under...

Suggestions would be most welcome! (I'm 75kg by the way).
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Already answered your question from when you posed it in the Wheelbuilders thread, but I'll try again.

This time you left out the word "affordable". You're not going to find a 1000g or less wheel set, unless you're willing to pay out the nose for all carbon construction like Lightweight Ventoux III, or Madfiber. Expect to spend about 2 to 5 grand for ultralight wheels. And forget about clinchers, all wheels in that weight range are tubular only. The lightest wheel set that I've seen built with normal stainless spokes is the Edge 1.25 at 985g, still pricey as hell though, 2,400 bucks is pretty steep.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Hairy Wheels said:
For a lot less money you could buy a 1200 gram pair of wheels. They could be factory or hand built.

Really...why worry about 200 grams?

Already told the OP that when asked in the other thread. Tons of affordable climbing set-ups can be had in the 1200-1400g range. Saving 200-400 grams and spending obscene amounts of moola won't make you climb faster, only training.
 
Apr 25, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Already told the OP that when asked in the other thread. Tons of affordable climbing set-ups can be had in the 1200-1400g range. Saving 200-400 grams and spending obscene amounts of moola won't make you climb faster, only training.

Sorry RDV, and thanks for your advice in the other thread, my short term memory is pretty poor sometimes!

I've found the difference between my 1480g tubeless Dura Ace wheelset and my 60mm deep, carbon 1299g tubular HED's definitely noticeable when climbing - only when it's windy the HED's suffer a bit in the crosswind...

I can't help thinking that shaving another 300g off the moving parts would be noticibly different again, especially if they're not a deeper carbon rim that catch the wind when it's blowy.

I was thinking about maybe a build with some Edge 1,25 rims.. I see Reynolds do a set claiming to be 1040g (I think) but then put a disclaimer that they could be 5% heavier or lighter.... I can't help thinking they'd be heavier! Which would put them nearer 1100g.

If I'm spending £1500 on some wheels, I want to be feeling that I've done the right thing!
 
Apr 25, 2009
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TopCarbon said:
Zipp 202 with ceramic bearings
Lightweights in any variations
Reynolds DV 46 ULs

The Lightweights and the Reynolds are too deep for what I'm looking for... The Zipp 202's might be a good shout, but any Zipps are very difficult to obtain in Europe at present, everyone seems to be out of stock waiting for the next shipment to come in.
 
Jul 23, 2010
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dont overlook Campy Hyperions. I have a set of setups and clinchers and they are bullet proof. Bullet proof is what you want, or you will be eating tacos.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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TopCarbon said:
dont overlook Campy Hyperions. I have a set of setups and clinchers and they are bullet proof. Bullet proof is what you want, or you will be eating tacos.

Yessir. Pozzato proved that Hyperions are more than a lightweight climbing set by thrashing them to a second place last year at Roubaix.
 
Jul 10, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Yessir. Pozzato proved that Hyperions are more than a lightweight climbing set by thrashing them to a second place last year at Roubaix.

I'm probably going to be hammered for this but I would put the American Classic Mag 300 clinchers on your short list. I have got a four year old set of these wheels which have proven to be durable on coarse chip, potholed roads and at 1120 grams are about the lightest alloy clinchers you could get. The current model has a wider rim (22mm) and is a bit heavier at a claimed 1275 grams. That is still pretty light and at around $1500US including ceramic bearings it isn't bad value. The spoke count is high (28 front, 32 rear) so they are possibly aren't the most aerodynamic wheels around although that is not a big consideration in a climbing wheel. I have absolutely nothing to do with the company by the way. The wheels came second hand with the bike.
 
slartiblartfast said:
I'm probably going to be hammered for this but I would put the American Classic Mag 300 clinchers on your short list. I have got a four year old set of these wheels which have proven to be durable on coarse chip, potholed roads and at 1120 grams are about the lightest alloy clinchers you could get. The current model has a wider rim (22mm) and is a bit heavier at a claimed 1275 grams. That is still pretty light and at around $1500US including ceramic bearings it isn't bad value. The spoke count is high (28 front, 32 rear) so they are possibly aren't the most aerodynamic wheels around although that is not a big consideration in a climbing wheel. I have absolutely nothing to do with the company by the way. The wheels came second hand with the bike.

Weak point is the hubs. With Kinlin rims and better hubs, like shimano, Record(32/32) or DT you can close to the same weight, better hubs and less $ to boot.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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slartiblartfast said:
I'm probably going to be hammered for this but I would put the American Classic Mag 300 clinchers on your short list. I have got a four year old set of these wheels which have proven to be durable on coarse chip, potholed roads and at 1120 grams are about the lightest alloy clinchers you could get. The current model has a wider rim (22mm) and is a bit heavier at a claimed 1275 grams. That is still pretty light and at around $1500US including ceramic bearings it isn't bad value. The spoke count is high (28 front, 32 rear) so they are possibly aren't the most aerodynamic wheels around although that is not a big consideration in a climbing wheel. I have absolutely nothing to do with the company by the way. The wheels came second hand with the bike.

Not hammered, but I should add that from a repair standpoint American Classic takes a close 2nd place in the wheels-falling-apart category to Mavic. Hubs in these wheels have proven year after year to be some of the absolute worst in the wheel aftermarket. Two brands to clearly stay away from if possible.
 
Jul 23, 2010
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Bustedknuckle said:
Weak point is the hubs. With Kinlin rims and better hubs, like shimano, Record(32/32) or DT you can close to the same weight, better hubs and less $ to boot.

those hubs suck......just saying.

Had two break and I was done with this whole brand. Cheap is as cheap does.
 
Dec 14, 2009
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gingerwallaceafro said:
I'm in the market for a new climbing wheelset, either a factory set or getting a pair built. If I'm going to spend some money I want something that is going to be light! 1000g +/- or under...

Suggestions would be most welcome! (I'm 75kg by the way).

A few of us are going to build these up for Everest Challenge:------------

We should have rim and wheel pricing this week on the new Stan's 340 rim from Alex!!!

Link ---- http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/products_id/520

Here is a summary of key features for a steep climber and very fast descending wheelset.

After speaking with many people, my take is that using brakes on Everest doesn't occur too often but speeds will be in excess of 50 mph so heat will build up quick when you do!

The Good:
Lighter Set (goes up hill faster and with less effort)
Sapim CX-Ray Spokes (Aero, light, stiff, and excellent yield strength)
Alloy Rim (less chance of overheating and rim compromise)
Lighter Tires and Tubes
Cork Pads (use for carbon rims)
20/28 or 24/28 (if 180lbs or more seems safest)
20/24 (excellent if under 160lbs, and should be fine up to 180lbs)
Stan's ZTR Alpha 340 Rim (lightest alloy rim (350g) and excellent in 18/24 for up to 180lbs)
C-4 B-18 Rim (excellent in 20/24 or 20/28 configuration)
Carbon (it is always cool to look at and admire)

Plus/Minus:
Lighter Hubs (least effect on a spinning wheel)
Less Spokes (if less than 170lbs, 20/24 will be fine)
Carbon Tubular (may get hot and glue may get soft with heavy braking)
Kinlin Rims (excellent in 24/28 spoke configuration, +/- in 20/24 for keeping true)
Sapim Laser Spokes (may not be as strong and are less aero than CX-Rays but cost less)

The Bad:
Carbon Clincher (may get more fatigue from overheating and wheel compromise)
-this option would be my last choice. Also, alloy rims are about the same weight in a box rim.
Ti Spokes (flimsy, costly, lightest spoke, and not good recommendation from most builders)

Final Take:
A super light alloy clincher is the least costly and using the new Stan's 340 rim can get build weights in the mid 1100 gram range with CX-Ray spokes and light hubs. You wont have to worry about overheating, delamination, or using special brake pads. Alloy rims are cheap to replace and can be used as an every day wheel after the race.

Weight Weenies Galore:
Carbon box tubular rims, CX-Ray spokes, and light hubs can get builds under 1000 grams!
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Feldy82 said:
A few of us are going to build these up for Everest Challenge:------------

We should have rim and wheel pricing this week on the new Stan's 340 rim from Alex!!!

If you like stiff, responsive wheels, you won't like Stan's rims. That low weight comes at a ride quality penalty. Since they're so thin walled you won't get much life out of them either. But, when people see sub 400g alloy rims they're hard to resist, even if they really aren't that great.
 

eurotrash

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Jul 8, 2009
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Let's try this....

My opinion is that if you are a rider that needs this superlight wheelset, you are not buying it- you are getting paid to ride it.

This leads me to my next point: Do those of you with equipment way above your ability level ever feel silly that you have it? I most certainly would.

And finally, I noticed the OP posted the price of something in Pounds Sterling, which leads me to believe he lives in England. Are their mountains in England of which I am not aware?

ET
 
Jul 23, 2010
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eurotrash said:
Let's try this....

My opinion is that if you are a rider that needs this superlight wheelset, you are not buying it- you are getting paid to ride it.

This leads me to my next point: Do those of you with equipment way above your ability level ever feel silly that you have it? I most certainly would.

And finally, I noticed the OP posted the price of something in Pounds Sterling, which leads me to believe he lives in England. Are their mountains in England of which I am not aware?

ET

I have many sets of wheels, and enjoy them for different reasons. My climbing wheels make me more handsome, my tt wheels make me a better lover, and my training wheels give me more compassion.

Is this what you mean. lol
 

eurotrash

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Jul 8, 2009
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^^^^yes, thank you. This is exactly what I mean. All this specialty, high-end equipment does nothing for your riding since you are not a good enough cyclist to require it. You are like the old lady I see using aero bars going 12mph.


ET
 
Apr 5, 2010
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eurotrash said:
^^^^yes, thank you. This is exactly what I mean. All this specialty, high-end equipment does nothing for your riding since you are not a good enough cyclist to require it. You are like the old lady I see using aero bars going 12mph.


ET

Nice ET, your forum persona as a complete d!ickhead is perfectly convincing!
 
Jun 10, 2009
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eurotrash said:
^^^^yes, thank you. This is exactly what I mean. All this specialty, high-end equipment does nothing for your riding since you are not a good enough cyclist to require it. You are like the old lady I see using aero bars going 12mph.


ET

Load of rubbish.

As a teenager I used to feel the same as you, and rage internally against the old men on their high-priced Columbus SLX racing machines that I passed on my lowly Tange5 steel frame with 12 speed Exage gears..."nyah nyah, wasted your money on that Colnago with Croce d'Aune didn't you, old geezers?" Ah the arrogance of youth, to pretend, nay believe, that those feelings were anything other than jealousy.

Am I "good enough" as a cyclist to "require" the multitude of nice bikes I own, across the spectrum from carbon roadie to FS all mountain MTB? That question is a lot like asking "am I good enough as a man to require the nice lingerie my wife wears [some of the time!]?"

Would you really be such a fool as to believe a little luxury can't add to your enjoyment of the ride, even if 'winning the race' is not the aim of the performance?;)
 
Mar 18, 2009
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TopCarbon said:
I can thrive like Schumacher, but I love driving my Lamborghini. I may not drive it to the limit, but I really do not care.

Exactly. Life is short. Ride the best equipment you can afford, because it's fun. If you've got the money to throw away riding daily on carbon wheels with sew-ups, and that's what you want to do, why not? As the song goes, "Ain't nobody's business..."