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Wow, an 18 page installation guide for Shimano FDs

Jun 18, 2009
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Upgrading to 6800, open box of front derailleur and find some strange looking stuff in there. No directions on installation other than a user guide.

Off to the web and find the installation guide takes 18 pages!

Man, this thing better shift like nothing else...
 
Aug 4, 2011
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Don't you just run the cable through the shifter through the frame guides, clamp the cable at the shifter then adjust the screw thingys if needed.
That's what I do
 
Re:

ray j willings said:
Don't you just run the cable through the shifter through the frame guides, clamp the cable at the shifter then adjust the screw thingys if needed.
That's what I do

Apparently, you never shift off the big dog in any case (even above 20%). What do you care whether it is adjusted or not?
 
Aug 4, 2011
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Re: Re:

winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
Don't you just run the cable through the shifter through the frame guides, clamp the cable at the shifter then adjust the screw thingys if needed.
That's what I do

Apparently, you never shift off the big dog in any case (even above 20%). What do you care whether it is adjusted or not?


No I don't. That's why I run a down-tube shifter on my front mech. Saves weight ,no paddle, less cable.
Here's my weight weenie trek https://www.flickr.com/photos/131970499@N02/

But I still have to make sure it's tight enough to stay over the big dog " I like that name, nice one" .
The bike I am building up now "Custom Guru photon" I was seriously thinking about no small ring, but It just don't look right somehow.
Plus I have 2 spare red mechs that I fitted carbon cages to and have tuned so it would be a shame not to use one.
Fuch a weight weenie only has a front ring http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=98639&hilit=fuchs&start=60
I love Fuchs bike but I could not live without the front mech. it's heading towards the Fixie/ hipster style.
I am going to Italy in the summer. Going for some of those crazy long steep climbs so will need to get on the "little dog" I have a fibre light 40t carbon ring for the Guru that I will start getting used to spinning.
I will most likely have to go smaller on some of the climbs looking at what ratios the pro's use.
Its a start

That shimano manual sounds a bit big, what do think, over complicating things?
 
Re: Re:

ray j willings said:
winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
Don't you just run the cable through the shifter through the frame guides, clamp the cable at the shifter then adjust the screw thingys if needed.
That's what I do

Apparently, you never shift off the big dog in any case (even above 20%). What do you care whether it is adjusted or not?


No I don't. That's why I run a down-tube shifter on my front mech. Saves weight ,no paddle, less cable.
Here's my weight weenie trek https://www.flickr.com/photos/131970499@N02/

But I still have to make sure it's tight enough to stay over the big dog " I like that name, nice one" .
The bike I am building up now "Custom Guru photon" I was seriously thinking about no small ring, but It just don't look right somehow.
Plus I have 2 spare red mechs that I fitted carbon cages to and have tuned so it would be a shame not to use one.
Fuch a weight weenie only has a front ring http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=98639&hilit=fuchs&start=60
I love Fuchs bike but I could not live without the front mech. it's heading towards the Fixie/ hipster style.
I am going to Italy in the summer. Going for some of those crazy long steep climbs so will need to get on the "little dog" I have a fibre light 40t carbon ring for the Guru that I will start getting used to spinning.
I will most likely have to go smaller on some of the climbs looking at what ratios the pro's use.
Its a start

That shimano manual sounds a bit big, what do think, over complicating things?

Why not a downtube shifter on the right? And are those clinchers?? What's with all the spokes and a (Montreal) rim?? I thought you were a 'weight weenie'?? BTW-you had better have like 4% body fat and weigh a buck-45 or something.
 
Aug 4, 2011
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Re: Re:

Bustedknuckle said:
ray j willings said:
winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
Don't you just run the cable through the shifter through the frame guides, clamp the cable at the shifter then adjust the screw thingys if needed.
That's what I do

Apparently, you never shift off the big dog in any case (even above 20%). What do you care whether it is adjusted or not?


No I don't. That's why I run a down-tube shifter on my front mech. Saves weight ,no paddle, less cable.
Here's my weight weenie trek https://www.flickr.com/photos/131970499@N02/

But I still have to make sure it's tight enough to stay over the big dog " I like that name, nice one" .
The bike I am building up now "Custom Guru photon" I was seriously thinking about no small ring, but It just don't look right somehow.
Plus I have 2 spare red mechs that I fitted carbon cages to and have tuned so it would be a shame not to use one.
Fuch a weight weenie only has a front ring http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=98639&hilit=fuchs&start=60
I love Fuchs bike but I could not live without the front mech. it's heading towards the Fixie/ hipster style.
I am going to Italy in the summer. Going for some of those crazy long steep climbs so will need to get on the "little dog" I have a fibre light 40t carbon ring for the Guru that I will start getting used to spinning.
I will most likely have to go smaller on some of the climbs looking at what ratios the pro's use.
Its a start

That shimano manual sounds a bit big, what do think, over complicating things?

Why not a downtube shifter on the right? And are those clinchers?? What's with all the spokes and a (Montreal) rim?? I thought you were a 'weight weenie'?? BTW-you had better have like 4% body fat and weigh a buck-45 or something.

I love the paddle shifting its so its easy. If I shifted on the front ring that paddle would have stayed as well.
The red works like the old shimano ,you can shift a few cogs across at one time "feel for how many" Down tube for the rear would not work for me .
Rims are Kinlin xr200 the spokes are sapim super spikes http://www.starbike.com/en/sapim-super-spoke/
hubs are dati super light, pair weigh 1180grms
I have another set of clincher that weigh 1182grm ,Stans rims AC hubs and rev spokes. I will change the spokes to the sapims and drop another 30grms or so ...
I like clinchers easier to fix on the road IMO. no tub to carry.
I use veloflex tyres and the continental inner tubes 50grms . they roll really well/fast.
I Weigh 85 k ,,,not much body fat. I used to be into body building so I still hit the weights 3 times a week although nowhere lifting the weight I used to. Just like to have a bit of strength if you get me. I can climb quite well for a fat bloke :D
 
Jan 13, 2010
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richwagmn said:
Upgrading to 6800, open box of front derailleur and find some strange looking stuff in there. No directions on installation other than a user guide.

Off to the web and find the installation guide takes 18 pages!

Man, this thing better shift like nothing else...
Once you've done it a couple of times it gets easier.

But, yeah, when I took the Shimano video training on it, I said this is going to be hell on home mechanics. Hell, most shops still aren't doing it right. When you're done, though, it does shift like a hot knife through butter.
 
Aug 4, 2011
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Re:

King Boonen said:
Ray, if you head up North give me a shout. I'm only 76kg but with body fat that won't go away!


Will do. I "family" are going to Italy this summer. Not sure if I will get a chance to get up to Scotland.
But if I do head up north I will def PM you.
 
Aug 4, 2011
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Re:

King Boonen said:
Cool, I'll bring the bar-cam and you can show everyone how easily you leave me behind!

I'm into my serious training phase

funny_bike0.jpg
 
Jun 18, 2009
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ustabe said:
richwagmn said:
Upgrading to 6800, open box of front derailleur and find some strange looking stuff in there. No directions on installation other than a user guide.

Off to the web and find the installation guide takes 18 pages!

Man, this thing better shift like nothing else...
Once you've done it a couple of times it gets easier.

But, yeah, when I took the Shimano video training on it, I said this is going to be hell on home mechanics. Hell, most shops still aren't doing it right. When you're done, though, it does shift like a hot knife through butter.

Yea, I effed this up at first. Cable tension is super, super important I learned and trying to do a new gen Shimano FD without a cable adjuster (which I've done for years)... just doesn't work (or you're really, really good and maybe even a bit lucky).

Leonard Zinn has a nice write up on doing this. (http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-shimano-11-speed-front-derailleur-cable-setup_363733)

After toasting one cable trying to adjust it without a barrel adjuster, I relented, installed an inline adjuster, new cable (single cable price at local bike shop $28!) and all is well. Yes, it's the lightest shifting Shimano FD I've used.

I think the 6800 brakes are simply outstanding. Unsure if it's just a new pad compound or what, but really excellent braking.

Also, the 11 speed shimano chains seem really cheap now too. Been using KMC chains for years and been really happy with them, but with ultegra chains at half the cost, the KMC chain would need to be a lot better.
Now to sell that 6700 group before I build another bike.
 
Jan 13, 2010
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The plastic converter pin locating tool apparently came as an afterthought. The earliest units were shipped without it. Instructions were to position it so as to exert pressure on the cable in the high position and somewhat swing out of the way in the low position.

In my experience, a barrel adjuster is essential, especially when using delicate high performance cables that can't hold up to too many re-clampings. Remember that after downshifting to the small ring, low trim is one more click away. Over-tightening the low limit screw can help you pull enough tension on the cable before clamping, especially when you're seating new housings and ferrules on a frame with concealed routing. Clamp the cable, reset the limit screws, take some practice shifts, rough-tune the adjuster, work on another part of the bike, then take some more practice shifts and fine-tune the adjuster and limit screws. And, in a pinch, any good mid-grade cable with some grease on it will work just fine.