For a commuter it looks fine to me. the parts are likely to be fairly cheap and the welding isn't great but it's aluminium so should be pretty light. as 42x16 said, the wheels will matter the most. High spoke count is good, easier to sort out any issues and harder wearing, I would probably drop them into a local bike shop to get checked over for tension if I bought it. The frame doesn't have replaceable drop-outs so it will have a limited lifetime. I would recommend fitting a chain tensioner (something like the Surly Tuggnut is good as it is finger operated but cheaper ones can be found) so you're not having to dig into the dropouts to get the tension set right. I'm guessing the gearing is 46/16 (doesn't say what the cog it, just the chainring). Which is a pretty standard starter gear. If you are only using it on the flat you'll probably want to run something bigger like a 46/14 once you get used to it. Cogs and chains are very cheap though so easy to change about and see what suits. Chances are you will be able to move down a couple of teeth at the back and run the same chain if they have reasonably long dropouts and it's currently in the middle, you'd just have to adjust the brake pads. I tend to run my rear wheel as far back as I can while still allowing me to go down 1 tooth at the back, but that's because I use it for long rides.
What's the secondhand market like around you? At this price most of these brands are very similar, you'll get a lot more for your money secondhand if you know what to look for.
If it's something you are planning on using for training I would suggest looking to spend more money but for a commuter it looks ok to me.
Always ride fixed with at least one brake, preferably two. even if you hardly ever use them it's an insurance policy and skidding ruins expensive tyres!