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Gearing advice

Aug 25, 2012
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Hi

I'm building a bike and I'm trying to decide what gearing would be the choice to go with. I currently ride a compact and the gearing is fine, it is very hilly in my area and I quite like hills. But, I hate the 34-50 upshift (Shimano 105). So I am interested in getting a Sram Force group in standard and then perhaps sticking a 12-28 or 12-32 cassette on it, the latter would give me more gear inches on the low end and on the high end than my 50/34 12-27 I'm currently using (and former being in the same ballpark) and negate the annoying upshift...can anyone think of any reasons to stick with a compact?
 
Mar 10, 2009
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You might want to ask Andy Schleck how good the shift on SRAM is, supposedly newer models are better but probably only on the high end shifters, more research is needed on your part if you want a solid shifter.
 
Agreed. The front shift on Force will be worse than your 105. Try the new Ultegra group, it will give a tiny weight penalty over Force (maybe 100gm) but much nicer all-round. If you go for 50/34 with a 12 to 28 cassette that will cover everything except higher grade criterium racing.
 
Sep 1, 2011
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shakeshakeshake said:
Hi

I'm building a bike and I'm trying to decide what gearing would be the choice to go with. I currently ride a compact and the gearing is fine, it is very hilly in my area and I quite like hills. But, I hate the 34-50 upshift (Shimano 105). So I am interested in getting a Sram Force group in standard and then perhaps sticking a 12-28 or 12-32 cassette on it, the latter would give me more gear inches on the low end and on the high end than my 50/34 12-27 I'm currently using (and former being in the same ballpark) and negate the annoying upshift...can anyone think of any reasons to stick with a compact?

Go Campagnolo and use a triple crank-set.
 
May 11, 2009
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I live in the Rocky Mountains and just about every rider I know uses a compact chain set (as do I with my 105) and have never heard anyone complain about annoying shifting.

May I suggest that your problem could be that your FD needs adjusing or that you are attempting to shift with too much force on the chain.
 
ElChingon said:
You might want to ask Andy Schleck how good the shift on SRAM is, supposedly newer models are better but probably only on the high end shifters, more research is needed on your part if you want a solid shifter.

42x16ss said:
Agreed. The front shift on Force will be worse than your 105. Try the new Ultegra group, it will give a tiny weight penalty over Force (maybe 100gm) but much nicer all-round. If you go for 50/34 with a 12 to 28 cassette that will cover everything except higher grade criterium racing.

Fiemme said:
Go Campagnolo and use a triple crank-set.

advise to the OP:

*Please Stay away from SRAM-not worth spending the money on that brand at all.
*If your budget is limited- go from Shimano Ultegra (11 Speed)
*If you have a bit of money to spare: Campagnolo Athena 11 :)
 

DanielsDad

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Aug 22, 2013
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shakeshakeshake said:
Hi

I'm building a bike and I'm trying to decide what gearing would be the choice to go with. I currently ride a compact and the gearing is fine, it is very hilly in my area and I quite like hills. But, I hate the 34-50 upshift (Shimano 105). So I am interested in getting a Sram Force group in standard and then perhaps sticking a 12-28 or 12-32 cassette on it, the latter would give me more gear inches on the low end and on the high end than my 50/34 12-27 I'm currently using (and former being in the same ballpark) and negate the annoying upshift...can anyone think of any reasons to stick with a compact?
You didn't say the kind of rider you were, or the kind of rides. So I assume you are not racing, not touring, and you just like hills.
In the days with 5 cogs on the rear I could see worrying about what was on the front. I always liked half step then (so a front ring shift is half way between a rear cog shift). But with 11 speeds, outside of racing, just shift when the cross chaining gets too bad. The "non-racing" front cages will also handle a bigger chain angle without rubbing. So...I like your 12-32. Some road derailleurs will not handle that.
I think the SRAM Red is good stuff - and its racing stuff and won't have the ranges you want.
You have tons of crankset brands to choose from.
 
I changed my standard rear cassette to a ultegra 11-28T and it can pretty much handle everything I need, from flat to hilly to very steep like Mt Baw Baw.

So front 50x34 rear 11-28T. the standard was 12-25t at the back.
 
observer said:
I changed my standard rear cassette to a ultegra 11-28T and it can pretty much handle everything I need, from flat to hilly to very steep like Mt Baw Baw.

So front 50x34 rear 11-28T. the standard was 12-25t at the back.

A 34x28 is seriously low gear for a road bike. But then again, that Baw Baw is a nasty little ramp. Outrageously pretty, though. Enjoy!
 
May 11, 2009
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winkybiker said:
A 34x28 is seriously low gear for a road bike. But then again, that Baw Baw is a nasty little ramp. Outrageously pretty, though. Enjoy!

I recall reading that during some stages of the Giro this year some riders used 34x28 and 36x29 for really steep climbs.
 

GrilledFish

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Nov 18, 2013
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What is too high of a cadence?

When is the cadence too high? Just because a rider can learn to spin faster aren't they using energy doing so? Feels like over 110 and its time to shift.
 
How long is a piece of string? I've seen juniors spin at up 140 rpm because they are using restricted gears, but obviously I wouldn't recommend it for most :D

Cadence is a personal thing but go too low and you'll wear out your slow twitch muscle fibres faster while go too high and your CV system works too hard. For most people this seems to be in the range of 75-95rpm.
 

GrilledFish

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Nov 18, 2013
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42x16ss said:
How long is a piece of string? I've seen juniors spin at up 140 rpm because they are using restricted gears, but obviously I wouldn't recommend it for most :D

Cadence is a personal thing but go too low and you'll wear out your slow twitch muscle fibres faster while go too high and your CV system works too hard. For most people this seems to be in the range of 75-95rpm.
I've seen the videos of the guys on rollers doing 200+ (like the soccer players that do tricks with the ball - I wonder if it matters), or track riders near that, or juniors (who have to go a lot higher than that). But they have to. They do not have a bigger gear. I have never seen data on the human effort of dry spinning with no resistance. I have to believe spinning 140 with no chain takes some effort. Most I talk to push spinning - but what is the limit? I'm just thinking by what I see pros do its closer to 90 rpm still and a sprint maybe 130.