• The Cycling News forum is looking to add some volunteer moderators with Red Rick's recent retirement. If you're interested in helping keep our discussions on track, send a direct message to @SHaines here on the forum, or use the Contact Us form to message the Community Team.

    In the meanwhile, please use the Report option if you see a post that doesn't fit within the forum rules.

    Thanks!

New Wheel build - suggestions

Aug 28, 2009
1
0
0
Visit site
Now I am wanting to build a wheel set for my Ti road bike. Need to be reasonably priced (hubs/rims) reasonably lite. Current set is 24 hole (radial) front and 28 hole (2X) rear. For riding, training etc - not racing and I am 185 lbs.

Thinking of Ultegra or DT hubs, Mavic open pro or ? rims. Like to stay radial for the front (something different) and 2X at the back or some other combination (3x on the drive, 2x on the non-drive)

I'm open for suggestions..
 
Mar 19, 2009
2,703
3
0
www.ridemagnetic.com
Your hub and rim choice is just fine, but do NOT do that 3x drive, 2x non-drive rear wheel. If you want to try a different lacing pattern that will last in a rear wheel, you're much better off doing a 2x drive and radial non-drive.
 
Mar 10, 2009
1,384
0
0
Visit site
RDV, by coincidence was talking with a wheelbuilder today about new training hoops. out of curiosity, why not the 3x/2x combination and why the 2x/radial recommendation? one of my reasons for asking is that I'm riding Roval Pave SL's which ARE 2x/radial and they're laterally REALLY flexy. :confused:
 
Mar 19, 2009
2,703
3
0
www.ridemagnetic.com
Somehow that 3x/2x pattern was perpetuated by some wheel builders that thought they might be able to run a more even tension with that configuration in a typical dished rear wheel. It's an urban myth. Stick with all 3x, or all 2x, or radial non-drive, depending on hole counts of course.

The inherent problem of a geared rear wheel is non-drive side being the weak link. If you radially lace the non-drive side elbows in/heads out, the dish will be easier to achieve, and the left side radial shouldn't flex as much, entirely depends on the skill of the wheel builder at this point. Just about every pre-built wheel out there is laced radial non-drive. Why your Rovals are crap might be because those wheels are brought up to tension by a 250k robot, and robots can't, at least at this point, simulate a hand built by a human. Low spoke tension, or you're just too damn powerful!

IMHO a hand built 32 hole 3x all around is the best everyday wheel set. ;)
 
rookie said:
Now I am wanting to build a wheel set for my Ti road bike. Need to be reasonably priced (hubs/rims) reasonably lite. Current set is 24 hole (radial) front and 28 hole (2X) rear. For riding, training etc - not racing and I am 185 lbs.

Thinking of Ultegra or DT hubs, Mavic open pro or ? rims. Like to stay radial for the front (something different) and 2X at the back or some other combination (3x on the drive, 2x on the non-drive)

I'm open for suggestions..

Ultegra hubs, DT RR 1.1 double eyelet rims, 32 hole, laced 3 cross thruout, perhaps use Revolution spokes on the front, brass nipps.

DT hubs are what, 4 times the price of Ultegra? Nice but past the point of diminishing returns. If ya want lighter hubs, DT are nice but look at DA(7850) as well.

Radial, mixed cross patterns do nothing except make for a weaker wheel.
 
May 3, 2009
52
0
0
www.glorycycles.com
RDV4ROUBAIX said:
IMHO a hand built 32 hole 3x all around is the best everyday wheel set. ;)

I have to agree with this, if you are hand building low profile rims stick to a build pattern that suites your components. If you were say building a zipp rim radial is great.

3 cross all round, 28 front-32 rear is still a favorite with most pro's for training.