rear mechs, winter durability, solution

[richardg]

Being slightly lazy about cleaning my bikes after every ride, I've found that each winter the rear mech pivot points of the main parallelogram become 'sticky' to the point where I have to replace the mechs each winter. This is true on my commuting bike and winter training bike (both use Campag Veloce or Centaur). The main pivots of the parallelogram don't seem to be serviceable, so if spraying degreaser or lube onto the pivot points doesn't restore the mech's full mobility it seems replacement is the only option.
I have a vague memory from a few years back of a rubber 'boot' that would fit over the main body of a rear mech to keep the crud off it, are these still available anywhere ? Anyone got any better suggestions (apart from the obvious cleaning the bike thoroughly after every ride !). I live in a part of the world where the pavement is wet pretty much every ride from Nov-March and road grit is scattered liberally.

 

[winkybiker]

My winter commuting bike has a Shimano XTR rear mech (it's a touring bike). I spray it with WD40 every couple of weeks or so. It has been going for a few years now with no problems. I live in Vancouver and commute year-round about 25km each way.

 

[dsut4392]

Sorry to burst your bubble, but I think the obvious solution really is the best solution. I can't imagine any boot that will be effective while at the same time not negatively affecting shifting.

Rather than wait for your mech to seize up before you hit it with degreaser (presumably from corrosion hastened by salt in the grit?), you would be much better to use penetrating lube before and after each ride, and degrease every now and then when it starts to look really mucky.

I'm just about to replace a 2006 SRAM X9 MTB - it has been through plenty of mud in wet Tasmanian winters (and one English winter), and summer rides including beaches where it gets slopped with sea water. I hit it with a garden hose after most rides, and occasionally with a high pressure wash if I've left it too long and the mud is really caked on. There is nothing wrong with the parallelogram pivots, I'm replacing it because it's jockey wheels need replacing (for the third time) and it's less than twice the cost to just replace the whole mech. As the main pivot and the cage pivot are both a bit worn out and floppy, the part that holds the cable was mangled by a rock and may not survive the next time I change the cable, it seems like the right time!

 

[craptastic]

Rather than wait for your mech to seize up (presumably from corrosion hastened by salt in the grit?) before you hit it with degreaser, you would be much better to use penetrating lube before and after each ride, and degrease every now and then when it starts to look really mucky.

Totally agree with this. Been commuting year round in Calgary for the last 20 years in temps that can get down to -30C. Key is keeping anything that pivots clean and running properly. Current commuter bike set up is Campy Centaur, previous was 105. Both run fine without anything extra as long as you keep things maintained. Find Campy more solid in the cold but that could be partly just me preferring campy in general.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Being slightly lazy about cleaning my bikes after every ride, I've found that each winter the rear mech pivot points of the main parallelogram become 'sticky' to the point where I have to replace the mechs each winter. This is true on my commuting bike and winter training bike (both use Campag Veloce or Centaur). The main pivots of the parallelogram don't seem to be serviceable, so if spraying degreaser or lube onto the pivot points doesn't restore the mech's full mobility it seems replacement is the only option.
I have a vague memory from a few years back of a rubber 'boot' that would fit over the main body of a rear mech to keep the crud off it, are these still available anywhere ? Anyone got any better suggestions (apart from the obvious cleaning the bike thoroughly after every ride !). I live in a part of the world where the pavement is wet pretty much every ride from Nov-March and road grit is scattered liberally.

Put some diesel in a spray bottle and spray the mech frequently when the weather is crappy. What they did 'back in the day'..lubes and protects.