Rear wheel shifting on trainer

May 23, 2013
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When I ride the trainer (Cyclops Magnetic at home or Computrainer), after tightening down the sides, when I start to tighten down the flywheel, my back wheel shifts toward my non-drive chain stay. Pretty much the wheel shifts a bit. Once I hop on the trainer, my weight added (70kg) makes the tire run even closer to the chain stay, and the tire rubs a bit, especially during harder efforts. It is more noticeable on the cycleops. I have a 2013 Cannonade Supersix EVO Hi-Mod (I think), Di2.

Has anyone else had this issue? It's pretty infuriating. The wheel also shifts at times when I'm riding on the road, if I don't set it up just right. The chain stay has a bit of rub, but just in the clear coat thus far. I just switched to running 23mm tires, and when the bike is just sitting around there is plenty of room on both sides of the tire, but once I get on it the wheel shifts. Could it be the wheel itself?

For background info: I had a prior, exact same frame warranted because the back wheel alignment in the dropouts was so poor it rubbed much more (happened with a few sets of wheels). Hence why I'm very cautious/observant of it happening. I'm pretty disappointed this is happening with a second Cannonade frame.

Thanks for any help.
 
Try and avoid using your nice carbon bike on the turbo trainer, they are generally quite hard on your gear. I'd look at a few options like a cheap rear wheel just for the trainer, a direct drive trainer or rollers or even get an old CAAD second hand just for thrashing on the trainer and in crappy weather
 
Frame issues notwithstanding, and going back to the OP, there is no weather that is worse than indoor weather for riding. Seriously, how do you guys ride those trainer things? Life's too short.
 
May 11, 2009
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I just set up a bike, with Shimano QR, on a trainer. I noticed the bike is not fully vertical because the Shimano QR skewer has different diameter "nuts" at each end. This puts a side force on the rear wheel. Something like this might be the problem for the bike in post number 1.
 
May 23, 2013
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The loose free hub explanation is interesting...never thought of that. I'll get that checked out next time I'm at the ship.

As far as dealing with the frame, I'm hesitant to go through the entire warranty process again (because it's a hassle, I only have 1 bike at the moment, and it ends up costing money for disassembly/reassembly). My first Evo frame had exactly the problem described in that WW thread, and I read through it all back then. This new frame is definitely better than the old, but still obviously not perfect. What I do know is I will not be riding a Cannondale next year.

I'm also using a Shimano QR skewer, but doubt that's the issue.

And finally, -10F windchill is a reason for the trainer. And because it's a more efficient workout. Just takes discipline.
 
Sep 30, 2009
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Try a hex head skewer. There are also trainer skewers that are like this, with the hex head. Usually they are made so that they have an exact fit with the sockets on your brand of trainer. They will have an equal diameter on both ends and you can usually clamp them with more exacting force than a QR. Get a steel axle skewer, not Ti, you don't need to pay that much. If you still have the problem after checking the freehub and hex skewer, then it's your frame.

Did you purchase just the frame from your lbs, or the complete bike? If the complete bike, then why are they charging you for disassembly/re-assembly? That to me would be part of the warranty rectification and should be backcharged to Cdale.
 
May 23, 2013
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Long story, but I got the warranty through a different LBS (another Cannonade dealer).

Thanks for all the replies. I'll look into the Hex head skewer instead. I will say I didn't notice this issue as much when I was using the stock HED skewer with the rear wheel, and not the trainer skewer, but that could just be I wasn't noticing/looking for it then.
 

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