Replacement rear derailleur cable

May 5, 2010
73
0
0
Thanks but no thanks

If I wasn't having issues with the original I would not have asked the question.
 
Mar 10, 2009
1,296
0
0
TigerFish said:
If I wasn't having issues with the original I would not have asked the question.
The advice is still good. If you have a shimano system buy shimano cables. Issues are normal wear and tear. That is to say cables die. Even the most expensive system needs overhauls every 1 to 2 years. You can spend another 5 bucks on Jagwire cables but you are still going to replace them in the same amount of time as any stock stainless steel cable the bike came with. Often the housing needs to be changed too.
Some aftermarket cables are better than OEM but there is not a big difference either.
 
Jun 16, 2009
3,035
0
0
TigerFish said:
If I wasn't having issues with the original I would not have asked the question.
you only said 'time to replce' which implies it is worn out rather than it is technically not good enough for the job.

The point is, until you tell us what groupset you are riding and what type of frame its on, how exactly can anyone give you any worthwhile advice beyond 'replace with what is already there'?

As discussed, some swapping of cables is available but then the application can be affected by individual frames. If the bike has internal routing then the CASING rather than the cable itself can be the crucial factor.
 
Aug 4, 2009
1,056
0
0
TigerFish said:
Time to replace the road bike rear derailleur cable. Any suggestions?
Local bike shop will sell both inner cable and outer casing but only issue is make sure they are stainless because the cheap rubbish will jam in the sti levers .
otherwise its straght forward if you are not replacing outer cables make sure you have clean cut ends and add a little grease.

No need for specialy made up cable sets they are a rip off but make sure you have a proper cable cutter
 
May 5, 2010
73
0
0
Thanks for the cable help

That was great help. Exactly what I was hoping to find out. The cables died twice within a year. I was wondering about the shop cables because something rusted inside the housing, either the housing or the cable. The advice about confirming stainless and not over paying for advanced technology is great. Thanx again.
 
Aug 5, 2009
70
0
0
Here's my uptake. If the inner cable is frayed or is kinked or looks like it will break then replace just the inner cable. If you perceive that your shifting is going bad then I would suggest replacing both the inner cable and the housing.

As far as brands are concerned, I think OEM stuff(Shimano, Campy, etc,) is probably best.
 
Jan 20, 2010
713
0
0
Just out of interst while we are talking cables, has anyone tried systems like Gore Pro or i-links? I'm building a new bike now and wondered about trying them but then I figure the Dura-Ace 7900 system is probably just as good anyway and much cheaper.
 
Mar 10, 2009
1,296
0
0
TigerFish said:
That was great help. Exactly what I was hoping to find out. The cables died twice within a year. I was wondering about the shop cables because something rusted inside the housing, either the housing or the cable. The advice about confirming stainless and not over paying for advanced technology is great. Thanx again.
You would have gotten much better advice in the first reply if you said as much in your question. Rust on cables equals cheap cables or housing.
Straight forward answer. Stainless steel cables and teflon lined housings. Brass and chrome ferrules or SS. More than that is little return in performance but some reduction in maintenance for some enclosed cable systems.
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS