Single Speed Conversion

[Anonymous]

Hey all,

I've been thinking of turning my old road bike into a single speed, and was wondering if anyone has any advice/problems with doing this...

The frame is fine, wheels are okay, but the components have had it. Since there's really not much point having two road bikes, i though i'd turn the old one into a single speed.

Is it hard to convert these over?
I plan to buy maybe a 53 tooth track crackset, and 20 tooth rear cog just so it's a good cruising bike (i.e. cadence of 100 = 34kmh, cadence of 50 = 17kmh)..

I assume I will make it a free wheel rather than fixed, which just means once I buy a never brake set and new cables I should be on my way, right?

Oh and I heard that there can be issues with chain tension when converting a road bike to single speed, anyone know about that?

I am pretty useless mechanically (I just ride/race and hope my bike mechanic has got the bike in good condition) so any advice would be helpful on how plausible this is... thanks.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Hey all,

I've been thinking of turning my old road bike into a single speed, and was wondering if anyone has any advice/problems with doing this...

The frame is fine, wheels are okay, but the components have had it. Since there's really not much point having two road bikes, i though i'd turn the old one into a single speed.
Is it hard to convert these over?

No

I plan to buy maybe a 53 tooth track crackset, and 20 tooth rear cog just so it's a good cruising bike (i.e. cadence of 100 = 34kmh, cadence of 50 = 17kmh)..

I'd stay away from crack if I was you Don't waste your money on a new crankset, just get a set of single speed chain ring bolts. Most important thing is to get the chainline as straight as possible. And are you using a single cog on the original wheel with a bunch of spacers, or are you going to have an SS wheel built?

I assume I will make it a free wheel rather than fixed, which just means once I buy a never brake set and new cables I should be on my way, right?

I never brake either, but if you need 'em gofer it.

Oh and I heard that there can be issues with chain tension when converting a road bike to single speed, anyone know about that?

All depends what your rear dropouts look like. Horizontal/vertical? If you are vertical, or semi vert, you'll have a hard time getting proper chain tension. Might have to invest in a chain tensioner like a Surly Singleator, or PAUL Melvin.

I am pretty useless mechanically (I just ride/race and hope my bike mechanic has got the bike in good condition) so any advice would be helpful on how plausible this is... thanks.

Your mechanic will have a better idea since he can actually see it and put his hands on it. Posting a pic would've helped, but oh well. Good luck.

 

[Anonymous]

I'd stay away from crack if I was you Don't waste your money on a new crankset, just get a set of single speed chain ring bolts. Most important thing is to get the chainline as straight as possible. And are you using a single cog on the original wheel with a bunch of spacers, or are you going to have an SS wheel built?


I never brake either, but if you need 'em gofer it.


All depends what your rear dropouts look like. Horizontal/vertical? If you are vertical, or semi vert, you'll have a hard time getting proper chain tension. Might have to invest in a chain tensioner like a Surly Singleator, or PAUL Melvin.

...yeh i should really proof-read my posts. Thanks for pointing that out haha, so yeh i'm guessing i meant "crank" and instead of "never" i assume i meant "new" - wow i'm quite surprised at my errors actually haha

About the underline, unsure at this stage about the wheel. Replacing with a single cog and spacers seems logical enough, rather than buying a new wheel.

Thanks for the names of chain tensioners, i'll look into them too, since i am pretty sure the dropouts are semi-vertical

This is just a little project for me, so it sounds like it shouldn't be too hard to get this done, cheers!

 

[Willy_Voet]

It's a bit expensive, but well worth it:

White Industries Eno Hub. ~$150.

If you build up a 32 hole 3x wheel with this hub, you're looking at $225-$300.

I was able to build up the wheel myself with some spokes I bought on sale and an inexpensive rim. You might be able to switch the spokes and rim from an old wheel over to the hub if the flange heights and spacing are similar. Then only looking at $150 for hub, maybe $40 labor.

Maybe a bit steep for testing out a single speed, but well worth the investment. The hub will last 10 years. Could build an MTB wheel with it, too if the road doesn't work out for you.

 

[elapid]

I agree with Willy_Voet in regards to the hub. Rather than ****** around with chain tensioners, the eccentric hub from White Industries allows easy adjustment of chain tension for a bike with horizontal dropouts (which I would presume your bike has being a road bike). The added bonus is that if you want to go from freewheel to fixie, then all you have to do is flip the wheel.

I have the White Industries ENO eccentric hub on my two current fixies (commuter/road and MTB), had it on my old commuter which was stolen, and am intending on buying one for this winter's fixie project.

Another hub option recently mentioned on BikeRadar is the SRAM Torpedo Variable Hub which allows you to switch from freewheel to fixed with a turn of a screwdriver rather than flipping the wheel. See http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/hubs/product/torpedo-variable-hub-09-34541.

You also need to consider what kind of riding you want to do. If winter riding is likely, then you need hubs with sealed bearings.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

I've had this same set up on my 2 speed Surly Cross Check for 10 years. 48t X 38t front chainrings, 18t freewheel, Paul Melvin tensioner. The Melvin allows for up to a 20t spread up front. I shift with an old SunTour barcon. Not a SS anymore, but if you have to deal with any decent size hills or want to hit some trails, that 2nd smaller gear is great.

 

[Anonymous]

I've had this same set up on my 2 speed Surly Cross Check for 10 years. 48t X 38t front chainrings, 18t freewheel, Paul Melvin tensioner. The Melvin allows for up to a 20t spread up front. I shift with an old SunTour barcon. Not a SS anymore, but if you have to deal with any decent size hills or want to hit some trails, that 2nd smaller gear is great.

Hey RDV4Roubaix, thanks for that pic of your two speed.

One month later, I finally got around to taking my bike to my trusty mechanics.

After seeing this pic, I thought brilliant! almost a single speed, but a handy extra chainring incase you get stuck on a steep hill!

Well, becoz my old road bike was a triple chainset, the mechanics are replacing the cassette with a 16 tooth cog and spacers, and just using the rear derailleur as a temporary chain tensioner (my idea using the RD). That way, with the front der. still on there, I have a 3-speed bike!!

i thought about using your idea of the Paul Melvin tensioner, but becoz its a 52/39/30 triple, i didn't want to push it as it says a 20T difference can be accounted for. I thought 22T might just be straining it a little.

Anyway, with the rear der. sitting there in place, it acts as a temporary chain tensioner, albeit a little heavier than I initially thought.

I figure i'll test out the 3-speed once I pick it up this afternoon, and if I like the idea of minimal gearing over the next few weeks, then perhaps in the future, I adopt the PM tensioner and maybe a 52/39 or 50/34 crankset at the front and make it a two speed to save some more weight!

So far i've saved some weight getting rid of the cassette, and i'd say i'm halfway there to having a single speed (far from a fixie at this stage tho, baby steps ).

Anyways, RDV4ROUBAIX, cheers for the idea mate and thanks everyone else for the input, i'm starting to see the "Bikes and Gear" sub-threads as very useful for deciding what to tinker with, since I usually just hope my bike doesn't break since I am mechanically challenged.. plus there's almost ZERO politics to deal with in these threads!

 

[tubularglue]

two items i would recommend, so you can run a double ring. As noted above, and Shimano's

spacer available for inside of der/hanger bolt to adjust chain angle, on Shimano, Paul's has washers for inner and outer for chain angle

brilliant. Shimano Alfine/paul

http://www.paulcomp.com/melvin.html

I think Shimano is 20tooth max difference also.

"One of the coolest things about the Melvin is that it allows two front chain rings to be used (of course this is no longer a single speed, but can be very handy for loaded commuting). Because we use two pulleys, two chain rings with a maximum difference of twenty teeth can be used up front. With a little practice, a deft finger and a delicate heel make a fine front derailleur."

shimano 20-30$, pauls around 70-80$

 

[Anonymous]

two items i would recommend, so you can run a double ring. As noted above, and Shimano's

spacer available for inside of der/hanger bolt to adjust chain angle, on Shimano, Paul's has washers for inner and outer for chain angle

brilliant. Shimano Alfine/paul

http://www.paulcomp.com/melvin.html

I think Shimano is 20tooth max difference also.

"One of the coolest things about the Melvin is that it allows two front chain rings to be used (of course this is no longer a single speed, but can be very handy for loaded commuting). Because we use two pulleys, two chain rings with a maximum difference of twenty teeth can be used up front. With a little practice, a deft finger and a delicate heel make a fine front derailleur."

shimano 20-30$, pauls around 70-80$

cheers, thanks tubular.

i'm gonna see how the 3-speed goes for a while, becoz it was so cheap to convert, but absolutely, once i figure out a good gear ratio (either the 50/34 with 16T at back, or a 53/39 with 16T at back) then I reckon I will jump down to a 2-speed.

That way, as you said, use one of the chain tensioners designed for 2 front chainrings, and get rid of the heavy rear der and the heavy triple chainset, and make it a super-cool 2-speed.

Interesting to note the shimano affline is about 1/3 the price of the PM tensioner, but do you think that translates to 1/3 the quality also??

Probably rather spend that little bit extra for a good quality tensioner if I do eventually make it a 2-speed.

cheers

 

[tubularglue]

more adjustability on the Paul for chain angle.

for the price and looks, i would start with the alfine. jmo - smooth clean lines

 

[Stephen D Aalderink]

Listen bro, its easy and cheap - that's why NYC hipsters do it.
You can do all that stuff with White Industries and what not, but its not necessary and its expensive; you're just starting out...the idea is minimalism.
Take your old skool lugged frame and lose the front small ring, lose the brakes, lose the gears and derailleurs and embrace the idea that you will no longer freewheel. Yes, you will have to plan ahead and perhaps "skid" your way to glory.
Its different at first, but you'll get used to it - I used to ride all over NYC and have one out here in the country and I never think twice about brakes or coasting...you will adapt.
Buy some chain-ring bolt spacers to occupy the void left by your losing the small ring.
Buy a cheap single speed chain.
Buy a flip-flop alloy wheel and mount your fixie cog on one side and your freewheel on the other, just in case you can't handle a pedaling constant. (you can do it, I have faith) If you use your big ring (eg: 53) throw something like a 16T on the back...it will give you (@90 rpm with 170mm arms) 32 skid patches (which is a lot, and will make skidding easier) and 21.6mph (34.8km/h) - it will be fluid and beautiful.
Be careful in your gear selection, there are better combination's to give you less or more ease for skidding (check out some YouTube videos of how this "skidding" technique is accomplished). You essentially bring your legs parallel to the ground, lean forward on the bars (I put my waist over my stem) and lock your legs and skiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiid to a stop. It looks cool and is exhilarating.
I wouldn't worry to much about the chain-line...you are gonna be right in the game if you use your outer ring and a basic single speed wheel...if you want to get crazy and go head long into fixiedom you can spend lots of time selecting wheels like aerospokes, which are all the rage, white industries hubs, cranks....all sorts of stuff. You will have lots and lots of colors and selection to choose from - Fixie's are all the rage now and I can't believe that I am ordering blue anodized parts again. (80's revisited?)
On a budget you can build it up for about $150 bucks (new wheel $60-80, freewheel $13-16, chainring spacers $7 bucks, new bar tape $15-20). If you do have vertical dropouts you will need some sort of tensioner, which will add a bit more $...I have old school drops so chain tension is a breeze.
I built up my old Basso this way and I beat on it with no problems - you can do it!