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Suggestions for new chain please

May 20, 2010
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Hi, I snapped my Dura Ace chain (destroyed rear derailleur cage)...am now seeking relacement.

I run Dura Ace drivetrain except for SLK BB30 compact cranks and chain rings.

I weigh 95kg and am now seeking durability (as in non-breakage) above all.

I tend to accelerate hard from lights (that's when outer plate snapped 2000km on chain just under .75 wear).

Help appreciated.

Have considered Ultegra, Wipperman, SRAM but really have no idea and there are conflicting reviews.
 
Aug 4, 2009
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Did the plate snap in half? durace chains are about the best so long as they are fitted properly. how often do you change the chain? the new chains dont strech as much as they used to so they can still be worn although not stretched.
I get rid of my chain every 6-8000 km regardles.
Hope you didnt get hurt it can cause serious accidents.
 
May 20, 2010
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The plate (closest to frame) appears to have completely fractured (jagged break). The front part (on top run) of the broken link is missing.

Generally I run a chain for 1000km then change out...running a set of 3 chains in a cycle. I had left this chain on for winter (Australia).

I have visited CBeeh... (website devoted to cycle engineering) to observe that fractured DA chains are not unheard of.

I was extremely fortunate, loss of control could easily have resulted in unfavourable collision with a car (plenty around) or roadside furniture. So I count my blessings!
 
Jun 18, 2009
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JA.Tri said:
The plate (closest to frame) appears to have completely fractured (jagged break). The front part (on top run) of the broken link is missing.

Generally I run a chain for 1000km then change out...running a set of 3 chains in a cycle. I had left this chain on for winter (Australia).

I have visited CBeeh... (website devoted to cycle engineering) to observe that fractured DA chains are not unheard of.

I was extremely fortunate, loss of control could easily have resulted in unfavourable collision with a car (plenty around) or roadside furniture. So I count my blessings!

Glad you weren't hurt. Which DA chain is it? the 7900 chain has the punched out inner plates.

I too have always had good luck with the DA chains. I've heard good things about some of the SRAM chains.
 
May 23, 2011
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Campy chains last the longest. I do not know if that translates into resistance to breaking. I would tell you to get a KMC DX10SC but KMC makes Shimano's chains.

Get a chain without holes in the side plates like the KMC SC instead of the SL.

Do not get a SRAM chain. They are the worst of the three component makers.
 
Mar 13, 2009
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DA is one of the best, but the KMC X10SL thing is what I use these days
Why not just go Ultegra, bit heavier, though not a lot and Ultegra stuff seems to last twice as long as DA in the drive train so the weight is actually "doing something" (ie adding to the reliability)
 
JA.Tri said:
Hi, I snapped my Dura Ace chain (destroyed rear derailleur cage)...am now seeking relacement.

I run Dura Ace drivetrain except for SLK BB30 compact cranks and chain rings.

I weigh 95kg and am now seeking durability (as in non-breakage) above all.

I tend to accelerate hard from lights (that's when outer plate snapped 2000km on chain just under .75 wear).

Help appreciated.

Have considered Ultegra, Wipperman, SRAM but really have no idea and there are conflicting reviews.

KMC, Campagnolo both make great chains. sram sucks, Wipperman are expensive and kill cogsets.
 
Feb 25, 2010
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Bustedknuckle said:
KMC, Campagnolo both make great chains. sram sucks, Wipperman are expensive and kill cogsets.

why ? The RED chain I use is going for 1.5 years already and no problems whatsoever yet...

(only sram chain I wrecked was one that cost 8 €)
 
Mar 10, 2009
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You should seek a replacement chain from where ever you bought it and if they don't do anything contact Shimano. I think all the major brands are very good and if a bad one does slip out they will replace it for you. All the brands you mentioned are very good, some work better on certain drive trains according to people but basically boils down to how your bike is setup and if its gels with your drive train.

All chains break, I've only broken Wipperman (they insist on stamping their name on each and every outer link!), cracked by the outer edge of the outside plate by the pin where the Wipperman name was stamped (3 chains), all replaced by them vendor or Wipperman. Who remembers Fabian breaking his SRAM chain? David Millar (Shimano or was it SRAM?) at the pro races, they both missed out on possible wins, Millar tossed his bike :D

If you ride long enough you'll see everything break, hopefully not the parts on your bike. Remember nothing is perfect its all human made, yes if it breaks on everyone it might be defective for all.
 
Michielveedeebee said:
why ? The RED chain I use is going for 1.5 years already and no problems whatsoever yet...

(only sram chain I wrecked was one that cost 8 €)

1.5 years? I'll bet that cogset and chainrings are in great shape. Too many sram 10s chains break for my taste plus if I have a sram(or wipperman) chain on a bike and it shifts like crap(often) a KMC, shimano or Campagnolo chain seesm to always fix it.
 
May 20, 2010
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richwagmn said:
Glad you weren't hurt. Which DA chain is it? the 7900 chain has the punched out inner plates.

I too have always had good luck with the DA chains. I've heard good things about some of the SRAM chains.

Yes was 7900 chain...based on advice so far will avoid such chains.

Maybe it was just my time (for a broken chain). Over the years of off an on riding this was the first chain broken. And while I have abused drive trains in the past...I had thought I had taken reasonable care this time.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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JA.Tri said:
Yes was 7900 chain...based on advice so far will avoid such chains.

Maybe it was just my time (for a broken chain). Over the years of off an on riding this was the first chain broken. And while I have abused drive trains in the past...I had thought I had taken reasonable care this time.

Well, if a chain ever did that to me, I'd never use another again. That's scary stuff. (I have a 7900 chain too... fingers crossed)

Like others have said, a 7800 DA chain (with solid side plates) or an ultegra chain may be better.
 
Jun 18, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
KMC, Campagnolo both make great chains. sram sucks, Wipperman are expensive and kill cogsets.

Campag works on Shimano cassettes? I thought the width was different.
 
Jun 20, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
1.5 years? I'll bet that cogset and chainrings are in great shape. Too many sram 10s chains break for my taste plus if I have a sram(or wipperman) chain on a bike and it shifts like crap(often) a KMC, shimano or Campagnolo chain seesm to always fix it.

Those sort of comments are unhelpful when made as generalisms.

I've been riding for 20+ years (including full-time elite racing a long time ago) and never broken a chain and never changed one either, except when changing entire bike - Campy, Shimano and now SRAM Red. But I'm not very heavy and ride smooth not stompy, so maybe that's the difference. Just cleaned my cassette and chain this morning, 2 years old and still in great nick.

It's more helpful to observe:

1. If you are heavy, stompy or can put the power down like Cancellara then you need to change your chain often and stick with DA or Campy.

- If you are light and smooth pedalling, you can get away with any chain and just set and forget.
 
laziali said:
Those sort of comments are unhelpful when made as generalisms.

I've been riding for 20+ years (including full-time elite racing a long time ago) and never broken a chain and never changed one either, except when changing entire bike - Campy, Shimano and now SRAM Red. But I'm not very heavy and ride smooth not stompy, so maybe that's the difference. Just cleaned my cassette and chain this morning, 2 years old and still in great nick.

It's more helpful to observe:

1. If you are heavy, stompy or can put the power down like Cancellara then you need to change your chain often and stick with DA or Campy.

- If you are light and smooth pedalling, you can get away with any chain and just set and forget.

Not really. It is still steel on steel and chains wear cogsets and chainrings, even if you are light rider. Cogsets and chainrings are more expensive than chains and like oil in a car, even tho it's not low, it can be 'worn' to the point of needing to be changed.

You can just use a chain and cogset until you change both but again, chains are less expensive than cogsets, particularly like Red cogsets.
 
May 23, 2011
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laziali said:
Those sort of comments are unhelpful when made as generalisms.

I've been riding for 20+ years (including full-time elite racing a long time ago) and never broken a chain and never changed one either, except when changing entire bike - Campy, Shimano and now SRAM Red. But I'm not very heavy and ride smooth not stompy, so maybe that's the difference. Just cleaned my cassette and chain this morning, 2 years old and still in great nick.

It's more helpful to observe:

1. If you are heavy, stompy or can put the power down like Cancellara then you need to change your chain often and stick with DA or Campy.

- If you are light and smooth pedalling, you can get away with any chain and just set and forget.

Wow. Use a bike until the chain and cassette wear out then buy a new bike. I guess that is one way to do it.
 
Jun 20, 2009
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Damiano Machiavelli said:
Wow. Use a bike until the chain and cassette wear out then buy a new bike. I guess that is one way to do it.

Nah, just have been given a lot of bikes over the years and ride with finesse anyway, not like a neanderthal. How about you???
 
Feb 25, 2010
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Bustedknuckle said:
Not really. It is still steel on steel and chains wear cogsets and chainrings, even if you are light rider. Cogsets and chainrings are more expensive than chains and like oil in a car, even tho it's not low, it can be 'worn' to the point of needing to be changed.

You can just use a chain and cogset until you change both but again, chains are less expensive than cogsets, particularly like Red cogsets.

I do ride the Ultegra cogset on my two backwheels though...
Still no problem shifting whatsoever, even asked at the shop whether or not I should use a new chain, but they said it was still in mint condition...
It's not that I've been really nice to it either, going big ring on hills for stregth training, shifting under pressure during sprint training etç...
I've had really good experiences with SRAM.... (except for the S60 back wheel, spokes keep getting loose :s-any advice on that ? :p)
 
Jun 20, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
Not really. It is still steel on steel and chains wear cogsets and chainrings, even if you are light rider. Cogsets and chainrings are more expensive than chains and like oil in a car, even tho it's not low, it can be 'worn' to the point of needing to be changed.

You can just use a chain and cogset until you change both but again, chains are less expensive than cogsets, particularly like Red cogsets.

I'ts amazing experiences differ so much. I've got a chain wear indicator and no problems at all with SRAM red and no problems with sprocket or chain-ring wear - at least not any that lead to a noticeable functional difference. Logging about 500km/week at the moment, mainly in hilly terrain and with plenty of intervals, so its not for lack of use. Using wax lube rather than oil or silicone, with re-lube every week.
 
May 23, 2011
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laziali said:
Nah, just have been given a lot of bikes over the years and ride with finesse anyway, not like a neanderthal. How about you???

I go through two or three chains a year. Finesse has nothing to do with it. Chains wear from abrasion thinning the pins and rollers. You can ride all year in the little ring on flat ground and your chain will still wear.
 
Jun 20, 2009
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Damiano Machiavelli said:
I go through two or three chains a year. Finesse has nothing to do with it. Chains wear from abrasion thinning the pins and rollers. You can ride all year in the little ring on flat ground and your chain will still wear.

That's why one cleans a drive train regularly. Do you even ride a bike???
 

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