• The Cycling News forum is still looking to add volunteer moderators with. If you're interested in helping keep our discussions on track, send a direct message to @SHaines here on the forum, or use the Contact Us form to message the Community Team.

    In the meanwhile, please use the Report option if you see a post that doesn't fit within the forum rules.

    Thanks!

  • We hope all of you have a great holiday season and an incredible New Year. Thanks so much for being part of the Cycling News community!

Any comments on clipless pedals would be great

May 5, 2010
73
1
0
Visit site
Hi folks,

I am considering clipless pedals. I currently use standard flats and have always avoided clips. I am intrigued by the technology of clipless and the advantages. Any insights into your personal preferences would be great.

Thanx

I am leaning toward Speedplay.
 
Mar 10, 2009
272
2
0
Visit site
Denfinately go Keywin pedals if you can find a dealer near you. They are inexpensive, light and have a large surface. You can also get them in -3mm to +6mm axle lengths which is useful for those with big feet or heels that go in. This also allows you to modify the Q Factor (distance in between the pedals) that bests suits you. The cleats also last much longer than most competitors. I started using them a number of years ago and now would go with nothing different.

As for their usefulness, they allow for a much smoother pedal. Keep the ball of your foot where it should be so your not wasting power. Very useful when sprinting or climbing where you may pull up or pull/push across and push down. Basically they are a necessity if you are planning on doing any sort of riding other than general commuting. Just make sure you get one's which have some sideways movement in the pedal. This will protect your knees.
 
Jul 6, 2009
795
0
0
Visit site
the all round best pedal system is speedplay zero. adjustable float from no float to 15 degrees good cornering clearance light weight easy to clip into great pedals.
 
I'm a Time man, myself. Several of my friends enjoy their Speedplays, though. The big difference in performance between the pedals is fitness (in the case of me and my friends, the Times win :D) and walking around.

I can walk on any surface with my Time cleats; my SP friends apparently slip all over the place. One of them even bought little rubber booty things to put on over his cleats for when he gets off the bike.

I also know some Looks and a Dura Ace. They are all perfectly happy with their pedal systems.

And: definitely try clipless. You'll be amazed at what it feels like to ride with vs without. A good starter option is Shimano's SPD system. They're a bit cheaper than SP/Look/Time, and you can find them almost anywhere. My wife has pedals that are platforms on one side and SPD on the other, so she can switch it up between tennis shoes and clipping-in as she likes.
 
Jun 18, 2009
2,079
2
0
Visit site
mr. tibbs said:
I'm a Time man, myself. Several of my friends enjoy their Speedplays, though. The big difference in performance between the pedals is fitness (in the case of me and my friends, the Times win :D) and walking around.

I can walk on any surface with my Time cleats; my SP friends apparently slip all over the place. One of them even bought little rubber booty things to put on over his cleats for when he gets off the bike.

I also know some Looks and a Dura Ace. They are all perfectly happy with their pedal systems.

Time guy here too from way back. Currently riding the RXS. Yes, the cleats are walkable (if any cleat is really walkable). Just got second set of cleats. First starting squeaking after about 5000 miles.

That said, you can go into most any shop and get speedplay pedals and parts. Something to think about if you ever need quick service/parts. Anyone I know who has speedplay likes them. Probably my next pedal as well.
 
Jun 18, 2009
2,079
2
0
Visit site
Moose McKnuckles said:
I've used Speedplay for years. They're an advantage in fast sharp turns, but the float can be annoying for some. I hear DA pedals are fantastic. I'd give them a try.

I've heard the same about the DAs too.
 
Aug 4, 2009
1,056
1
0
Visit site
Remember the pedal cleat position is the most important part of the bike fit.

If you can try as many as possible.

I have used every one on the market almost I find shimano Durace SPDsl OK but am now useing Keo 2 so I can report back after a few Ks.

I am very fussy about pedals and seats. Some can use anything.
 
Mar 13, 2009
571
0
0
Visit site
From where you are coming from it wouldn't matter if you just went to leather straps with cleats, anything will be better
You have stiffer soles, you can pedal circles
Really it is like chalk and cheese.

What are you using them for?
If it is commuting then maybe you would be better with MTB style? (not that I have ever used them, but look at what 99% of couriers use)

I use Look Keo's and am happy with them, I think SP are good, Lance used Shimano even when his team was sponsored by others (now changed though), Some people are huge on Time, and I am sure they are all
Two things with SP, $ bolt not 3 bolt, so some shoes need an adapter (not a big deal, and the mechanism is on the shoe against the bike, which I don't think is that good an idea when you are not on the bike (lots of people are fine with it though) racing is different, but we train more than we race and that means traffic lights and cafe stops...
 
Jul 27, 2009
13
0
0
Visit site
For your first go at clipless I'd definitely recommend MTB-style Shimano SPD. You can have double-sided pedals, which makes it a LOT easier to clip into and the shoes have walkable soles. And they're cheap. I use SPD for my commuting fix-wheel.

I use Speedplay on the road. Speedplay pedals are double-sided which is again a major advantage for stop/starts (even easier than SPD) and the completely customisable float is also a major plus. Only major downside is that they're not good for walking (but if you're going to be walking very much then better not to have a road pedal at all and go for SPDs). And they tend to be a bit more expensive than some options.
 
Jul 6, 2009
795
0
0
Visit site
i commute on speedplays as well as race and train no cleat is great for walking but i have no issues even on slippery services like grocery store isles etc.. i have cleat covers but rarely use them. since were on the subject does anyone have any used titanium speedplay zeros they want to sell if so pm me.
 
Apr 3, 2009
138
0
0
Visit site
I've used Speedplays for 4 years now. I started out with Shimano SPDs to get used to clipless and have tried the Shimano DA pedals and did not like them. I like the float of the Speedplays and don't mind having to put the cafe covers on them when I'm off the bike. I actually wore through a pair of cleats because I ride so much and walked on them.

Plus the other great thing is that Speedplay makes various length spindels. I found this out last year during a bike fitting. I had the Ti spindles but those were to short for me and were replaced with stainless. In fact the reason the Ti Speedplays weigh as little as they do is a result of not only the material but the shortened spindle.

A friend switched over to Speedplays last summer from Shimano and was glad he did.

One thing to be aware of is to make certain the right cleat goes on the right foot. I know someone who installed them wrong and had some knee issues as a result.

Oh and they come in a few different colors so you are bound to find one that matches your bikes paint scheme.
 
Jun 15, 2009
3
0
0
Visit site
Clipless pedals vs. not

How have you done with this search?

I use both Look (on road bikes) and SPD on commuter bike. For touring, SPD with walkable shoes can't be beat. Once you use clipless, especially in hilly terrain, you will never go back.

Warning: Some folks have trouble initially with unclipping. Practice on grass of something soft till you get used to unclipping for a stop particularly an emergency stop.

Good luck with it!
 

buckwheat

BANNED
Sep 24, 2009
1,852
0
0
Visit site
TigerFish said:
Hi folks,

Thanx for all the input. It really helps.:D

Go to pro bike kit or ribble. You can get Shimano 540 pedals and cleats for less than 50 bucks.

Assuming your bike is in a safe condition and fits, the contact points, saddle, pedals and bars are most important.

I can't emphasize enough, get a clipless pedal system. Any one is a vast improvement over not having them.
 
Jun 10, 2009
606
0
0
Visit site
buckwheat said:
Go to pro bike kit or ribble. You can get Shimano 540 pedals and cleats for less than 50 bucks.

Assuming your bike is in a safe condition and fits, the contact points, saddle, pedals and bars are most important.

I can't emphasize enough, get a clipless pedal system. Any one is a vast improvement over not having them.

Caveat to the pedal suggestion above - if you're a lightweight rider, stay away from the R540s as they can be hard to unclip (the lowest release tension is much higher than Look Keos for example). My wife ditched her R540s for this reason after falling over a couple of times when unable to release, now rides Speedplay Light Actions and is really happy with them.

Otherwise agree with everything buckwheat says,

Regarding SPDs (not SPD-R), these are a must if you're touring; having a shoe you can walk in is essential, and who wants to carry a second pair of shoes? But if your primary use of the bike is as a 'road bike', a road oriented pedal and shoe system gives significantly better performance. I have SPDs on my mountain bikes (obviously) and tourer/commuter, but Keos on my road bike (but only because they were 1/2 the price of speedplay).
 
May 5, 2010
73
1
0
Visit site
Update based on dealer input

TigerFish said:
Hi folks,

I am considering clipless pedals. I currently use standard flats and have always avoided clips. I am intrigued by the technology of clipless and the advantages. Any insights into your personal preferences would be great.

Thanx

I am leaning toward Speedplay.

Great responses, I am looking forward to finishing this decision tomorrow and finding out what I have been missing. Interestingly, a number of dealer are recommending Shimano SPD M520s even though it is a mountain pedal. Their reasoning is easy entry exit and easier when not on the bike. I Appreciate the thoughts. Based on comments here and local dealers I think I am leaning toward the SPDs at this point. With the price I would not mind upgrading in the future. ?:cool:
 
Jun 18, 2009
2,079
2
0
Visit site
TigerFish said:
Great responses, I am looking forward to finishing this decision tomorrow and finding out what I have been missing. Interestingly, a number of dealer are recommending Shimano SPD M520s even though it is a mountain pedal. Their reasoning is easy entry exit and easier when not on the bike. I Appreciate the thoughts. Based on comments here and local dealers I think I am leaning toward the SPDs at this point. With the price I would not mind upgrading in the future. ?:cool:

I used to have problems with SPDs and hot spots on my foot directly over the cleat. It always seemed like the contact area was too small.

Time makes an MTB pedal that can be walked on also and it has free float as opposed to Shimano's recentering float (or have these changed?). I have these on my cross bike.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/PE610A04-Time+Atac+Alium+Pedals.aspx

(Not recommending jensonusa over anyone else just first link that came up)
 
Jun 10, 2009
606
0
0
Visit site
richwagmn said:
I used to have problems with SPDs and hot spots on my foot directly over the cleat. It always seemed like the contact area was too small.

Time makes an MTB pedal that can be walked on also and it has free float as opposed to Shimano's recentering float (or have these changed?). I have these on my cross bike.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/PE610A04-Time+Atac+Alium+Pedals.aspx

(Not recommending jensonusa over anyone else just first link that came up)

FWIW, your "hot-spot" problem is probably related much more to the shoe than the pedal. A shoe with a rigid sole (especially where the cleat attaches) and proper support from the footbed should not cause hot spots regardless of the pedal system you're using. IMO the problem of a small contact area is solely to do with slop in the interface which allows the shoe to rock/twist on the pedal.
 
Jun 10, 2009
606
0
0
Visit site
TigerFish said:
Great responses, I am looking forward to finishing this decision tomorrow and finding out what I have been missing. Interestingly, a number of dealer are recommending Shimano SPD M520s even though it is a mountain pedal. Their reasoning is easy entry exit and easier when not on the bike. I Appreciate the thoughts. Based on comments here and local dealers I think I am leaning toward the SPDs at this point. With the price I would not mind upgrading in the future. ?:cool:

Just make sure you realise that "upgrading" to a road specific system will require changing both pedals and shoes...which is fine if your shoes will also need an upgrade, and they probably will.

If you're thinking you could upgrade the pedal and stay with the same shoes, it's hardly worth bothering, the M520s are good pedals and will last for many years.
 
May 5, 2010
73
1
0
Visit site
Decided on SPDs with MTB shoe

I bought the 520s with a stiff MTB shoe. The "try them on the grass first" advice from jobertel was invaluable. Unclipping has not been a problem but getting the second cleat clipped caused some issues. I spent a little time flopping around on the grass like a fish out of water until I figured out you could start pedaling without having the 2nd pedal fully clipped to the cleat. Clipping the first cleat is no problem at all. I have not had any problems unclipping (knock on wood). I have not had to unclip in a hurry yet.

I did one of my easier 20 mile rides with a couple of moderate hills for our area. Everything went great. Today I went 38 miles with two 2+ mile hills in the mix. I flopped once trying to get started. I am amazed at how strong it feels pedaling, especially at the bottom of the stroke. So far I am very happy with the decision. I really appreciate the advice.:D
 
Jun 18, 2009
2,079
2
0
Visit site
dsut4392 said:
FWIW, your "hot-spot" problem is probably related much more to the shoe than the pedal. A shoe with a rigid sole (especially where the cleat attaches) and proper support from the footbed should not cause hot spots regardless of the pedal system you're using. IMO the problem of a small contact area is solely to do with slop in the interface which allows the shoe to rock/twist on the pedal.

Interesting. Certainly could explain it.
 

Latest posts