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'are you running sealant?'

In your tubeless tyres? Im runn'n that stans stuff. Great stuff. Havent flatted since using it. In the 24hr race on the weekend there was heaps o flats. Out of curiosity I asked all riders I saw trackside fix'n if they were runn'n sealant? None were. Sealant aint 100%, nothing is but it sure does help a stack.
 
Jul 17, 2009
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durianrider said:
In your tubeless tyres? Im runn'n that stans stuff. Great stuff. Havent flatted since using it. In the 24hr race on the weekend there was heaps o flats. Out of curiosity I asked all riders I saw trackside fix'n if they were runn'n sealant? None were. Sealant aint 100%, nothing is but it sure does help a stack.

Rigid or FS? 29 or 26? What volume tire? What width rim?

I mix in some Slime tubeless (not Slime Tube stuff) and glitter with the stans you need the 'chunk' effect. like baking I eyeball the amounts


2.4 maxxis Ardents on Velocity p35 rims. rigid SS 29er

also be sure check beads often and pressure often

nothing ruins a day like a tire burp especially on the front?

Did you do it yourself or LBS

Took me months to get it right with a compressor.

Also I have found it best to let the tires sit for a few day after first mount and bead setting. let them bleed and seep, rotate often in that session.

Tubeless is a pain in the a$$ and your buddies will get a weeks riding in before you mount your foist tire BUT worth it for low tire pressure on wide rime and 2.4 tire for me. smooth and traction
 
Jul 17, 2009
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I should add Stans strips work for me. Tried getto tubleless but I am all thumbs as a mechanic anyway and it was a bit complex
 
Im running cross max wheels with maxxis 2.0 ignitor UST tyres.

One red cap of stans in each. Ive found I can use a track pump to pump the tyre is one bead is already bedded right. Its a good workout anyway! :)

The main problem I had at the start was not making sure the valve nut was done up tight. I was getting slow leaks and not knowing why.

This is a great vid about stans. Dude stabbing a tyre with a nail..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD4P7TwtpLk
 
Jul 17, 2009
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Interesting It look like he is running mad high tire pressure for this test I wonder if he brought the pressure down to about 20 what it would do?

BTW if you got tubeless to bead with a floor pump you are kinda manly. damn

how long did you let them set before your first ride?
 
Jul 17, 2009
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Dude;

You are a vegan and run tubeless and don't ride a 29er?

BTW a hot set up here here locally for tubeless, low tire pressure and hi rolling and good cornering is Stans Flow rims with Maxxis Ardent 2.1. 29 0r 26. the Flow turn a 2.1 into a wide volume ride. maybe a 2.35 ish on a 29er. not sure about 26

If I cared about rolling fast in XC again i'd go that route. But I love the 2.4 fatties on the wide rims rigid
 
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Today I was climbing up a dirt road nothing too crazy, and I hear a psss blub bubble, psss. I must have run over something sharp. Anyway, the goo kind of squirts out so I stop and rotate the tire so the hole is at the bottom and it seals right up. Very little air lost and with 20 miles still in front of me with a rocky technical section of trail, I had no more issues.

I run 2.2 Conti UST Mtn kings about 30 psi. I was glad I didn't have to stick a tube in it. :)
 
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Boeing said:
Dude;

You are a vegan and run tubeless and don't ride a 29er?

Good call. And it should be fully rigid, steel, with a brooks saddle, and preferably a basket.;)

To answer the OP:
Yes to the sealant.
Mavic 317 rims with Stans rim strip and standard (non tubeless) maxxis Ignitor 2.3 front, ghetto tubeless (my stans strip tore at the valve so I had to improvise) with a UST Monorail 2.2 rear. Front needed an air compressor (or to be honest, a free range PETA approved CO2 cartidge) to inflate the first time, UST tire on the rear inflated without a problem with my track pump. They do leak air slowly (go from 35PSI to 28ish in a week) but I haven't had a flat since converting last December.
 
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dsut4392 said:
Good call. And it should be fully rigid, steel, with a brooks saddle, and preferably a basket.;)

To answer the OP:
Yes to the sealant.
Mavic 317 rims with Stans rim strip and standard (non tubeless) maxxis Ignitor 2.3 front, ghetto tubeless (my stans strip tore at the valve so I had to improvise) with a UST Monorail 2.2 rear. Front needed an air compressor (or to be honest, a free range PETA approved CO2 cartidge) to inflate the first time, UST tire on the rear inflated without a problem with my track pump. They do leak air slowly (go from 35PSI to 28ish in a week) but I haven't had a flat since converting last December.

curious, do you find the mavic narrow? Tubeless allows me to go wide rim 28 or 35 and fat and low pressure and more tire coverage. on my steel rigid 29er that is....

low pressure on a narrow rim feels wobbly to me...and I fear burping and the bead pulling especially up front....

thoughts?
 
Jul 27, 2010
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Hey Boeing (and others),

I run maxxis ignitors and crossmarks on my 29er hardtail. Put around 23-29 psi in em.

On race days I have had to make some last minute tire swaps with Stan's and they work fine immediately. What I do is pump the tire to around the max or so (50ish?) until I hear the pop of the bead seating and then I let the pressure out to what I want to run it at. A lot of people I know do this. Some even use Cafe Latex which is more of a foam like sealant whereas Stan's is more like a liquid with tiny sealing chunks.

Anyway

Since Stan's is a liquid when you rotate your tires it will collect evenly on the internal side of the tread. I think riding after adding is a better way to ensure the products performance because it allows the sealant to penetrate areas near the bead.

Also

To ensure that the bead does seat take some of the Stan's and rub it on the bead of the tire, this will lubricate it better than nothing. If you pump up the tire pressure to 50 psi and it still doesn't pop then get some soapy water and rub it on the areas that will not seat.

Just my experience for whats it worth
 
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Boeing said:
curious, do you find the mavic narrow? Tubeless allows me to go wide rim 28 or 35 and fat and low pressure and more tire coverage. on my steel rigid 29er that is....

low pressure on a narrow rim feels wobbly to me...and I fear burping and the bead pulling especially up front....

thoughts?
Yes, I do find the tyres squirmy running low pressures, which could be the skinny rims, and I doubt I gain performance in terms of traction and cushioning as some claim you can realise with tubeless.
That said, the tires I used to run were more aggressive for cornering (Hutchinson barracuda 2.3 front, Maxxis Ignitor 2.3 rear) and I think I'm missing those as much as feeling the squirm of the lower pressure. Next time I'm replacing the tires, damn the expense, I'll buy the barracuda in tubeless - unfortunately the bead in the non-tubeless is too slack to inflate (easily) tubeless, and probably none too safe as I could just about pop the inflated tire off the rim with my hands up to 30 PSI.

Regarding burping or pulling a bead, I typically run in the 35-40PSI range, but even as low as 20ish (forgot to pump them up before a ride, d'OH) I haven't pulled a bead or burped the tire.
 
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dsut4392 said:
Yes, I do find the tyres squirmy running low pressures, which could be the skinny rims, and I doubt I gain performance in terms of traction and cushioning as some claim you can realise with tubeless.
That said, the tires I used to run were more aggressive for cornering (Hutchinson barracuda 2.3 front, Maxxis Ignitor 2.3 rear) and I think I'm missing those as much as feeling the squirm of the lower pressure. Next time I'm replacing the tires, damn the expense, I'll buy the barracuda in tubeless - unfortunately the bead in the non-tubeless is too slack to inflate (easily) tubeless, and probably none too safe as I could just about pop the inflated tire off the rim with my hands up to 30 PSI.

Regarding burping or pulling a bead, I typically run in the 35-40PSI range, but even as low as 20ish (forgot to pump them up before a ride, d'OH) I haven't pulled a bead or burped the tire.

If and when it is affordable try a wider rim like the stans flow at 28mm
 
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Boeing said:
If and when it is affordable try a wider rim like the stans flow at 28mm

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll check those out next time I'm replacing my MTB. At the moment the gear is the least thing holding me back, have lost my nerve since an (unrelated) injury about a year ago, and "technical performance" upgrades are a bit hard to justify when I'm riding like a girl's blouse:( (Upside is that my roadie is well blinged-out as it has been receiving all the upgrade love:D)

I have been pretty happy with the Mavics, the wheels came stock on my 2006 Giant Reign and they still run straight and true, despite having worn out just about everything else on the bike (5 DU shock bushings, fork and shock seals, front and rear hub bearings, a couple of BBs (until I changed to Enduro ABEC5 bearings which have lasted 3 years) a couple of sets of chainrings, 2 cassettes and 6 or so chains).
 
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dsut4392 said:
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll check those out next time I'm replacing my MTB. At the moment the gear is the least thing holding me back, have lost my nerve since an (unrelated) injury about a year ago, and "technical performance" upgrades are a bit hard to justify when I'm riding like a girl's blouse:( (Upside is that my roadie is well blinged-out as it has been receiving all the upgrade love:D)

I have been pretty happy with the Mavics, the wheels came stock on my 2006 Giant Reign and they still run straight and true, despite having worn out just about everything else on the bike (5 DU shock bushings, fork and shock seals, front and rear hub bearings, a couple of BBs (until I changed to Enduro ABEC5 bearings which have lasted 3 years) a couple of sets of chainrings, 2 cassettes and 6 or so chains).

I actually only know about all this through trial and error with a transition from full suspension squishy 26 to a tubeless full rigid 29. I went wider and wider from a Manic t719 to Stand Flow to now a Velocity p35. Considered the Salsa Gordo but it is a tank and not tubeless friendly. I am now on the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 with the p35 and it is grippy and all the suspension I need.

I sold my dh and xc 26 bikes

However I will say that as much as I like 29er. I would not ride one DH. Cornering and tt clearance for bike handling is more important to me on a DH than roll over and it is easier to get to momentum again on a heavy transition on a 26. If I were racing

but all that aside the 29 rigid takes me back to just spinning and mashing for fitness with no bounce.

Tubeless low pressure and fat tires on wide rims are the bomb and all that with rigid is a roadies dream mtn bike IMHO
 
durianrider said:
In your tubeless tyres? Im runn'n that stans stuff. Great stuff. Havent flatted since using it. In the 24hr race on the weekend there was heaps o flats. Out of curiosity I asked all riders I saw trackside fix'n if they were runn'n sealant? None were. Sealant aint 100%, nothing is but it sure does help a stack.

Everyone I talk to who uses tubeless with sealant swears by it. I just haven't made the switch yet. But I probably should cuz we have lots of goathead around here. So far I have been pretty lucky in only going through about 2 tubes a year over 2000 miles. I used to go through one or two tubes a week, until I discovered my hand pump was making the air going in the tube too hot, which would cause the rubber-to-rubber seam at the valve stem to split open. Switching to a good floor pump or a car battery powered air compressor keeps the temperature low and I have not had any tubes split open since then.
 
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I run Stans arches and schwalbe tires (NN front, RR rear) on my 29er. I love the stans sealant and have not flatted with it once. I see no reason not to go tubeless, especially with the increased traction you can get with low pressures.
 
Jul 17, 2009
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Everyone I talk to doesntrun Stan's alone or they did once. a little blend you can find thread on socaltrailriders or mtbr


but SoCal terrain is a little different. Schwable RR don't hold a line here and rock gardens blow walls too big to seal
 
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Just got my first puncture last night since going tubeless at the beginnning of January. 35 to 0 PSI in less than a second! Inspection of the tyre revealed a hole big enough to poke my finger through that no amount of sealant was ever going to fix...
The tyre also showed evidence of 5 other small sealant plugs which may have meant flats if running a tube set up (and certainly would have been flats in a tubeless setup without sealant).

Morals of the story:
-sealant works, most of the time
-for those times it doesn't work, you really need to be carrying a spare tube and a tyre boot
-even on a trail you know well, don't follow your buddy too closely especially in the dark
-a finger-thickness green branch with a pointy end can punch a finger-size hole right through the centre of your tread

On the plus side this means I can get rid of the Monorail tyre that I didn't like much without feeling too guilty:)
 
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StyrbjornSterki said:
For my money, USTs w/sealant are the greatest MTB innovation since the V-brake.

I run Joe's Super Sealant in my FS MTB, which has UST wheels/tires. Better stuff than Stan's but sold nowhere in North America I know of.

I am interested to know if you run strictly UST tires for any particular reason
 
Jul 17, 2009
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dsut4392 said:
Just got my first puncture last night since going tubeless at the beginnning of January. 35 to 0 PSI in less than a second! Inspection of the tyre revealed a hole big enough to poke my finger through that no amount of sealant was ever going to fix...
The tyre also showed evidence of 5 other small sealant plugs which may have meant flats if running a tube set up (and certainly would have been flats in a tubeless setup without sealant).

Morals of the story:
-sealant works, most of the time
-for those times it doesn't work, you really need to be carrying a spare tube and a tyre boot
-even on a trail you know well, don't follow your buddy too closely especially in the dark
-a finger-thickness green branch with a pointy end can punch a finger-size hole right through the centre of your tread

On the plus side this means I can get rid of the Monorail tyre that I didn't like much without feeling too guilty:)

Was this a side wall puncture???
 
Jul 17, 2009
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kiwimatt said:
maxxis crossmark front.larsen rear,both ust on mavic st wheels,bombproof and no punctures in 3 years so far,touch wood.:)



Sounds like your experience setting the bead on a Larsen is better than mine and other riders I know. Let me know your secret....
 

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