Electronic shifting v Mechanical?

[BW1009]

I'm building a bike - frame up for the 1st time and I'm not sure whether to go for electronic shifting or stick with the tried and tested - mechanical shifting (SRAM Red or Dura Ace). Does anyone have any experience of Di2 - opinions appreciated.
Or put it this way - should any self respecting 'top end' bike build be kitted out with an electronic gearset? Thanks

 

[laziali]

I have both mech and electronic. Di2 Dura Ace (11 Speed) is materially better than mech DA in my opinion. SRAM Red is not even in the ballpark, and I have it on one of my rides so I know

Here's what the Secret Pro (strongly suspected to be Bernhard Eisel from Sky) has to say on the topic:

"Everyone in the pro peloton bashes one particular groupset though [ed. SRAM Red]. It’s all in good fun, but it’s an unwritten rule that you have to take the **** out of the guys who are on that groupset.

The electronic groupsets is where it’s at nowdays. Di2 has been brilliant. – absolutely flawless. From what I understand the 11spd Dura Ace is even better. It’s now just like Campag where you hold the button in and it just goes up or down the cassette. The riders say great things about it."http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2013/02/let-the-season-begin/


[.. Cue ... Posts to follow from the flat-earth society members about how 'steel is real', 'Campag Delta were the best brakes ever if you knew how to tune them', down tube friction shifters are still the best because, you know, old-skool cool is all about finesse' and 'Di2 is just marketing bumff' - all of course delivered from commentators who have never actually used it ... End Cue ...]

 

[BW1009]

Thanks. That's just made the build more expensive...

I've been told by a couple of mechanics that Ultegra Di2 is better than DA (not sure on what basis other than half the price)

Cavendish is on SRAM Red this year - thats some fall from DA Di2. But its not held him up too much in Oman so far

 

[laziali]

Thanks. That's just made the build more expensive...

I've been told by a couple of mechanics that Ultegra Di2 is better than DA (not sure on what basis other than half the price)

Cavendish is on SRAM Red this year - thats some fall from DA Di2. But its not held him up too much in Oman so far

Ultegra Di2 is way cheaper, relatively heavier, not quite as pretty, but still a really, really nice groupset. I would take Ultegra Di2 over DA Mech (and over previous gen DA Di2, that's for sure), but DA Di2 11-speed is next level again so if you have the coin it's the way to go.

I'm pretty sure Cav would win on a fixie this week

 

[BW1009]

I'm confused - I thought the whole purpose of these forums was that no one agreed with each other. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Master50]

Get the campy electronic. it is best.

 

[Haynzie]

Caveat: No experience of Di2

Campag.. really going off it. Using Campag these days seem to involve tooling up with proprietary and expensive tools such as the chain tool for their peened 11 sp chain, and the farce that is the chainset. Shimano is soooo much better designed in this respect. Campag got in too late, and are struggling with trying to avoid patent infringements.

Dura Ace fc9000... expensive, but looks like a proper upgrade. Haven't tried it, but gut feeling is that it will overcome the weaknesses of the 7900 gpset. Those chainwheels are going to be expemsive to replace. Can't see many other companies producing cheaper compatibles.

Di2- Word is that the Ultegra works better than the original DA, but the 11 speed will be sweet.

* this post may contain traces of envy. I'm still on 7800 (which I love) and 10sp Record.

 

[avanti]

........... I'm not sure whether to go for electronic shifting or stick with the tried and tested - mechanical shifting (SRAM Red or Dura Ace). ...............

I would imagine that your choice depends to a great extent on what you plan to use the bike for.

 

[winkybiker]

I'm not hating on electronic group-sets, but I have enough things that plug in already. For me they solve a problem I simply don't have (like tubeless tyres do).

I'm very happy with my new mechanical Super Record 11, as I am with my 10 speed Record on my second bike. My old 9-speed DA will be missed as the bike it is on has now gone to a nephew. It was unbelievably good. I hope he appreciates it for as many years (at least) as I did.

 

[Fiemme]

The only major advantage of electronic shifting is the auto trim of the front derailleur when the chain rubs. Other than that mechanical works just as well as electronic (Both Campag & Shimano).
Is the extra price of electronic groups worth it when Auto-trim is the only advantage?

 

[laziali]

The only major advantage of electronic shifting is the auto trim of the front derailleur when the chain rubs. Other than that mechanical works just as well as electronic (Both Campag & Shimano).
Is the extra price of electronic groups worth it when Auto-trim is the only advantage?

I have both, and in my experience in addition to the trim point:

1. Hot days (it gets over 40degrees celsius here), I find mechanical cables seem to stretch a little - at least that is what I am attributing to shifting going out a little.

2. No such thing as cable stretch, loss of "zing" over time.

3. Once set up, Di2 never needs to be tuned again unless crashed.

Here's my own relative ranking from personal experience:

SRAM Red 1st gen: 7/10
SRAM Red current: 8.5/10
DA Di2 1st gen: 8.5/10
DA Mech (current) 9/10
Di2 Ultegra (current) 9.5/10
Di2 11-speed (current) 10/10

Basically, in my experience, the DA mech and 11-speed Di2 are awesome, but Di2 is a little better.

Can't comment on Campag, it's been a while.

 

[simo1733]

I wouldn't go electronic unless the battery is internal.

 

[ElChingon]

I won't go Electronic till its wireless like it was back in the good old days with Mavic Mektronic! These wired setups are so 20th Century, might as well go back to a metal lever or flip-flop hub.

 

[Unkown]

Been riding Shimano Ultegra Di2 for most of last year and to me compared to mechanical its flawless. Autotrim is quite amazing as others have mentioned but for me the real amazing part is Di2's ability to shift under massive loads. Pretty great when you can stand up and climb up a 10% + grade and shift the rear derailleur up or down without any resistance or hesitation and keep your momentum. Very useful when you get to those hills that gradually increase in gradient from 0% all the way up to 10% + in a short period of time.

 

[laziali]

I wouldn't go electronic unless the battery is internal.

Mine is - it's in the seat tube (can also be put in seat post). DA Di2 11-Speed comes with a special expansion sleeve for just this purpose. Charging is via a junction box. It is WAAAY cool Calfee also do an aftermarket.

Here's a story from Cyclingnews a while back http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/shimano-dura-ace-di2-9070-sneak-peek

 

[purcell]

I won't go Electronic till its wireless like it was back in the good old days with Mavic Mektronic! These wired setups are so 20th Century, might as well go back to a metal lever or flip-flop hub.

I would not even consider it until I retire and have enough time to ride my bike as much as I want, and as much as I would have to to justify the price.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

This thread needs to be moved.

 

[Fiemme]

Been riding Shimano Ultegra Di2 for most of last year and to me compared to mechanical its flawless. Autotrim is quite amazing as others have mentioned but for me the real amazing part is Di2's ability to shift under massive loads. Pretty great when you can stand up and climb up a 10% + grade and shift the rear derailleur up or down without any resistance or hesitation and keep your momentum. Very useful when you get to those hills that gradually increase in gradient from 0% all the way up to 10% + in a short period of time.

Gear changing under load should have no baring whether electronic or mechanical shifting. It is all to do with the chain and the pick up points on the cassette.
I use Mechanical Campag, which changes under load with no problem.

 

[purcell]

This thread needs to be moved.

The shifter's jammed ...

 

[Unkown]

Gear changing under load should have no baring whether electronic or mechanical shifting. It is all to do with the chain and the pick up points on the cassette.
I use Mechanical Campag, which changes under load with no problem.

Well i don't know anybody with Campag but I have friends withe SRAM Red, Rival, and Dura Ace mechanical, and their shifting while standing is far less smooth. Until you try electronic its totally different, because I thought the same thing before as well. Thats just from my experience though, is your shifting in the front derailleur smooth when standing?

 

[hfer07]

3. Once set up, Di2 never needs to be tuned again unless crashed.

a silly question: What if you need to change your cassette for a different gear ration-lets say for very steep terrain-perhaps the small chain ring as well-do you synchronize it yourself or you have to take it to the shop?

 

[Fiemme]

Well i don't know anybody with Campag but I have friends withe SRAM Red, Rival, and Dura Ace mechanical, and their shifting while standing is far less smooth. Until you try electronic its totally different, because I thought the same thing before as well. Thats just from my experience though, is your shifting in the front derailleur smooth when standing?

To be Honest i very rarely change the front derailleur under load. Generally under load changes only occur on the rear derailleur. However i am generally cautious when out of the saddle and changing the front derailleur. I simply change the front derailleur until the chain is pushed against the large ring and the pick up pins do the rest.

hfer07 i would have thought that changing gear ratios should not need any re-configuration of the electronic set-up. Only if the Cassette is in a slightly different position on the spline would a re-configuration be needed. The sapcing between the cogs always remains the same. Its just the start of the first cog that varies from hub to hub. This would still just need to be adjusted by the Limit screws on the rear and front derailleur.

 

[laziali]

a silly question: What if you need to change your cassette for a different gear ration-lets say for very steep terrain-perhaps the small chain ring as well-do you synchronize it yourself or you have to take it to the shop?

Di2 DA 11 speed accommodates a range of 11-29. No need to tune when switching cassettes as spacing doesn't change. If switching between standard and compact, all that is needed is to change the rings not the whole crankset as bolt points are now the same.

I run 3 road racing bikes at the mo each with ratios and wheels to suit different terrain so haven't had to address the issue in practice but the above is what my LBS told me.

PS, my LBS has a computer module that plugs in to tune Di2 - I'm sure u can run it off any PC, but I leave that stuff to my LBS

 

[Oldman]

I'm not hating on electronic group-sets, but I have enough things that plug in already. For me they solve a problem I simply don't have (like tubeless tyres do).

I'm very happy with my new mechanical Super Record 11, as I am with my 10 speed Record on my second bike. My old 9-speed DA will be missed as the bike it is on has now gone to a nephew. It was unbelievably good. I hope he appreciates it for as many years (at least) as I did.

I'm old and lazy so I totally agree with you. Having a reliable system that requires little maintenence is the biggest advantage to me. I still ride the Campy 10 until neutral support cars have a majority of 11 speed wheels. It's not just the gruppo...it's the cogsets, chain, rings....

 

[Unkown]

To be Honest i very rarely change the front derailleur under load. Generally under load changes only occur on the rear derailleur. However i am generally cautious when out of the saddle and changing the front derailleur. I simply change the front derailleur until the chain is pushed against the large ring and the pick up pins do the rest.

hfer07 i would have thought that changing gear ratios should not need any re-configuration of the electronic set-up. Only if the Cassette is in a slightly different position on the spline would a re-configuration be needed. The sapcing between the cogs always remains the same. Its just the start of the first cog that varies from hub to hub. This would still just need to be adjusted by the Limit screws on the rear and front derailleur.

Well I don't really change the front derailleur while standing very ofton, but its cools that Di2 can do it so effortlessly, not the like the hold and wait on most mechanical systems, but its not like it makes much of a difference. Its just cool!