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Entry level questions.

Feb 10, 2010
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Hi there, I suppose this could serve as something of an introduction.

Anyhow, I'm 17 and I got into cycling about 2 years ago doing solo road rides on an awful department store mountain bike. Nowadays I ride an old Giant road bike that I bought off a friend for $40. I realized pretty quickly that it didn't fit me when, after 45 miles or so, my back hurt worse than my legs.

So I want to get a new bike, a road bike naturally, and I'm really not sure what to believe. I'm not the type of guy that can just go out and spend a boatload on the best gear, in fact I'm pretty short on money, but will hopefully have a relatively low income stream soon.

tl;dr: I'm looking for a road bike for some entry level racing and lots of training. I don't have a lot of money to spend. What do you guys think?
 
Dec 30, 2009
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Wailing Floating Head said:
Hi there, I suppose this could serve as something of an introduction.

Anyhow, I'm 17 and I got into cycling about 2 years ago doing solo road rides on an awful department store mountain bike. Nowadays I ride an old Giant road bike that I bought off a friend for $40. I realized pretty quickly that it didn't fit me when, after 45 miles or so, my back hurt worse than my legs.

So I want to get a new bike, a road bike naturally, and I'm really not sure what to believe. I'm not the type of guy that can just go out and spend a boatload on the best gear, in fact I'm pretty short on money, but will hopefully have a relatively low income stream soon.

tl;dr: I'm looking for a road bike for some entry level racing and lots of training. I don't have a lot of money to spend. What do you guys think?

Go to your local bike shop. They should look after you, they will want you back when you are rich.
 
Mar 16, 2009
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www.violetcrown.org
Find a mentor (or two)

Check out local racing clubs. The best clubs (I don't mean the ones that necessarily win most of the local races) will have experienced veteran riders, some of whom will no doubt have older bikes to sell or will at least be plugged in to the local 2nd-hand market. Find a mentor or two, and listen to their advice. My club has gotten many a junior started in cycling/racing, including one reigning national professional road champion . . .
 
Aug 14, 2009
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where are you located? Frozen Barren North can be located in many different places throughout the world.

If you are stateside, you might want to consider a Scattante. My friend has one, and though it is not the biggest name in cycling, he is very happy with it. Came with an Ultegra Gruppo, and I think there are more economically sound options with a Shimano 105 gruppo, as well.
 
Oct 29, 2009
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It sounds like you've learned the fit lesson. But remember in buying a bike, don't try to fit yourself to a bike, fit the bike to you. Go to a legitimate bike shop and ask a few questions, tell them what you want to accomplish, how and where you plan to ride, etc. If the first thing they ask is how much are you willing to spend, be suspicious, because they will suggest that bike even if a less expensive model will do the trick.

Giant, Trek, Fuji, and Marin all have race-ready entry level bikes. Just ride as many as you can; you'll know when you've found the one.
 
May 11, 2009
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The weitght s not as important as some people think. 1-2 kg of bicycle might mean 1000-2000 dollars difference.

My advice is to see if you can find a nice bicycle that fits you with some old campy gruppo. Even the veloce/mirage 8 speed gruppo from the nineties will be very good and last a lifetime. It is definately better than shimano equivalent from the nineties. The newer 10 speed is also a good option, but more expensive.

Otherwise the 10 speed shimano 105/ultegra is also a good gruppo.

An aluminum frame with good wheels and one of those gruppos is a very good bicycle. ANd definately better than a brand new bicycle with cheap wheels and a cheap gruppo.
 
ImmaculateKadence said:
It sounds like you've learned the fit lesson. But remember in buying a bike, don't try to fit yourself to a bike, fit the bike to you. Go to a legitimate bike shop and ask a few questions, tell them what you want to accomplish, how and where you plan to ride, etc. If the first thing they ask is how much are you willing to spend, be suspicious, because they will suggest that bike even if a less expensive model will do the trick.

Giant, Trek, Fuji, and Marin all have race-ready entry level bikes. Just ride as many as you can; you'll know when you've found the one.

the one question you should ask when looking at bikes and your budget is "is there anything I can do on the more expensive model than the cheaper one"...
several years ago when I first got into cycling, i was looking at a 2k+ bike until the guy in the shop asked me what I thought I could do on it compared with the one priced at 1,500. He then pointed out that the frames were nearly identical, and I would only be paying for the componentry which at the level I was at was more than good enough...
 
Oct 29, 2009
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Archibald said:
the one question you should ask when looking at bikes and your budget is "is there anything I can do on the more expensive model than the cheaper one"...
several years ago when I first got into cycling, i was looking at a 2k+ bike until the guy in the shop asked me what I thought I could do on it compared with the one priced at 1,500. He then pointed out that the frames were nearly identical, and I would only be paying for the componentry which at the level I was at was more than good enough...

Exactly, then as you get more into racing, you can upgrade wheels and other components for better performance.
 
Feb 10, 2010
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Wow! Thanks for the input everyone. I definitely got more than I expected - lots of useful information and such.

Another thing. I don't suppose it has to do gear, with but how difficult are lower level races generally? I imagine it varies from place to place and whatnot, but is there some sort of general rule I should know when it comes to starting off?

Thanks again.
 
Caad9

WFH,

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but...

Go to your local Cannondale dealer and try out a CAAD9. They may have an '09 entry level one left and be closing it out for under $900. The frame is great and worthy of upgraded components as you get addicted and get stronger. There is no more proven aluminum frame available.

My advice on racing is not to right now. Until you're up to the point where you've built a good base of miles, are riding 100-150+ miles a week, and can incorporate some specific race training you will just be frustrating yourself. Get comfortable on the bike, build some fitness, and do increasingly difficult group rides to build your fitness, bike handling skills, and see if you can hang.

Just my .02...
 
Feb 10, 2010
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WFH,

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but...

Go to your local Cannondale dealer and try out a CAAD9. They may have an '09 entry level one left and be closing it out for under $900. The frame is great and worthy of upgraded components as you get addicted and get stronger. There is no more proven aluminum frame available.

My advice on racing is not to right now. Until you're up to the point where you've built a good base of miles, are riding 100-150+ miles a week, and can incorporate some specific race training you will just be frustrating yourself. Get comfortable on the bike, build some fitness, and do increasingly difficult group rides to build your fitness, bike handling skills, and see if you can hang.

Just my .02...

I'll definitely check out a CAAD9 then, though I'll probably give a whole bunch of bikes a spin when I actually have some money. Also, thanks for the racing suggestion. I should have elaborated that I didn't plan to just start jumping into racing, but that is a really nice guideline.

Blah, I wanna get back in the saddle so bad right now. MN winter is killing me.
 
Apr 21, 2009
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Minne-snow-ta Winters

Wailing Floating Head said:
I'll definitely check out a CAAD9 then, though I'll probably give a whole bunch of bikes a spin when I actually have some money. Also, thanks for the racing suggestion. I should have elaborated that I didn't plan to just start jumping into racing, but that is a really nice guideline.

Blah, I wanna get back in the saddle so bad right now. MN winter is killing me.

I can understand that the winters there are hard, but you should enjoy the great skiing while you can! There is no better cross training than skating!

If you're not on cross-country skis this winter, you are missing out...
 
Apr 21, 2009
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Steel >> Aluminum

kukiniloa said:
I can understand that the winters there are hard, but you should enjoy the great skiing while you can! There is no better cross training than skating!

If you're not on cross-country skis this winter, you are missing out...

IMHO, if you can't afford crabon, steel is better than aluminum, at least for me. I always found 50+ miles on aluminum to be torture, even with a crabon fork. Steel is way better at absorbing the road shock, and the money you save can go into better wheels. It makes much more sense to save money in rolling weight, as in the wheels, pedals, and crank...

Again, just my humble opinion...
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Archibald said:
the one question you should ask when looking at bikes and your budget is "is there anything I can do on the more expensive model than the cheaper one"...
several years ago when I first got into cycling, i was looking at a 2k+ bike until the guy in the shop asked me what I thought I could do on it compared with the one priced at 1,500. He then pointed out that the frames were nearly identical, and I would only be paying for the componentry which at the level I was at was more than good enough...

I second this comment. Even the modern Shimano Tiagra is damm good groupset. My wife has all Tiagra which runs much better than my mix and match 105/ultegra/fsa cranks set-up. I strongly advise getting a matching groupset.

Whether you have the money or not, for your first road bike I always advise people to spend under $2k - coz you're always going to want an upgrade and even if it takes a while you'll get good use out of it.

good luck and happy riding.
 
Oct 29, 2009
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Wailing Floating Head said:
Another thing. I don't suppose it has to do gear, with but how difficult are lower level races generally? I imagine it varies from place to place and whatnot, but is there some sort of general rule I should know when it comes to starting off?

Cat 5 can be surprisingly intense, so I wouldn't suggest racing until you feel comfortable in a peloton. I second what others have said about group rides and want to add non-race events and charity rides. Before I started racing, I did several metrics and a few centuries. A few of those actually felt like a race without the pressure; you'll see people try to breakaway and attack on climbs. It will give you an opportunity to test your race legs. By the time I started racing, I felt comfortable and confident in a peloton.
 
Feb 10, 2010
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Awesome. Thank you all for all the advice, I'll certainly implement it as the season gets closer. And maybe I'll have to give cross skiing a shot, I've always found it to be pretty fun.

Thanks again!
 

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