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fixed gear input
- Thread starter brent242
- Start date
Will it take full fenders, is it drilled for front and rear brakes, gearing should probably be 42 x 18. After that it's price, price, price, and how many things will you have to alter. Like bars, stems, saddle.
Oh, I might suggest getting mountain bike pedals. A little easier to clip into once you're rolling on a fixed. Not that much easier, but if you're new to fixed gear riding it may help.
Oh, I might suggest getting mountain bike pedals. A little easier to clip into once you're rolling on a fixed. Not that much easier, but if you're new to fixed gear riding it may help.
brent242 said:
You can buy bikes on ebay for under 250 bucks. Set of fenders and the right stem and rear cog..no brainer. Co-worker on the same cheap bike that he got 2 and a half years ago. They come w brakes and levers.
Err... no! I wouldn't want a fixed gear bike! If I understood correctly the pedals are always moving when the bike is in motion... so; when going down-hill my legs would do WUUOOUUU!! (Or something like that... they'd spin around like crazy...)
Gearing really depends on your commuting route and what you type of racing you do.
42 x 18 is far too low for the flats. If you're racing track or crits, you'll be more suited to a bigger GI as well. I think the first thing you need to decide is whether you need a fixed gear or simply a single speed.
42 x 18 is far too low for the flats. If you're racing track or crits, you'll be more suited to a bigger GI as well. I think the first thing you need to decide is whether you need a fixed gear or simply a single speed.
unsheath said:
A 42 x 18 will have you spinning at 100 RPM to achieve 18 mph, not bad at all for base training or commuting. Also the 42 x 18 will have you climbing hills up to 8% or more at speeds that will likely be faster than on your geared bike. It's the perfect all-round gear.
If you want to push bigger meat, take the geared bike out.
If you genuinely are monster strong, I still wouldn't go higher than a 72" gearing. I know of one guy who climbs all the hills I do in my 63" while he's riding a 72". But then, he was on the USA world cyclocross team for three or four years. Were you?
Keep it real, and have fun.
Agree w/ GilTeamS&M. 42 x 18 is the sweet spot.
However, if you have no hills, you may want the more common commuter gearing which is 46x18. I ride 42 x 17 in SF and can manage the steepest hills (very slow cadence however).
Front brake is a must. If you buy a track frame you probably won't have space for fenders except for clip-ons. Many bike manufacturers have latched on to the fixie fad and now sell complete street track bikes. If you do, you probably will want to swap out the bars and get proper pedals.
You could also do a conversion if you don't want the track geometry and a bit more flexibility. You can also get a flip-flop hub so you have a fixed gear on one side and a singlespeed on the other.
You can peruse bikesdirect.com for what to look for.
And visit bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/ to make sure you don't succumb to the hipster virus.
However, if you have no hills, you may want the more common commuter gearing which is 46x18. I ride 42 x 17 in SF and can manage the steepest hills (very slow cadence however).
Front brake is a must. If you buy a track frame you probably won't have space for fenders except for clip-ons. Many bike manufacturers have latched on to the fixie fad and now sell complete street track bikes. If you do, you probably will want to swap out the bars and get proper pedals.
You could also do a conversion if you don't want the track geometry and a bit more flexibility. You can also get a flip-flop hub so you have a fixed gear on one side and a singlespeed on the other.
You can peruse bikesdirect.com for what to look for.
And visit bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/ to make sure you don't succumb to the hipster virus.
Don't do it for training, or expect positive results on the road. http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=7831
"Myth #1: Riding a fixed gear improves pedaling efficiency and leg speed.
I might as well get the big one out of the way first. Fixed gear bikes are a great toy for tooling around town, cruising the beach, or propping up for all to see outside the coffee shop, but they have no place in a serious road cyclist’s training routine, unless your primary goals are riding on the velodrome. Here’s why:"
"Myth #1: Riding a fixed gear improves pedaling efficiency and leg speed.
I might as well get the big one out of the way first. Fixed gear bikes are a great toy for tooling around town, cruising the beach, or propping up for all to see outside the coffee shop, but they have no place in a serious road cyclist’s training routine, unless your primary goals are riding on the velodrome. Here’s why:"
Gearing will depend on your route and pedaling style. I use 48x17 on my commute, mostly flat with a couple of hills at 6-8% and under 300M. I'm not genuinely monster strong by any means. I would select a lower ration if I commuted a shorter distance or in an urban area.
pedaling squares said:
I'm riding the same gearing in the same sort of area (riding a round trip of 30km a day to work), but i tend to tackle a few longer hills (when i can find them) just to get a bit more strength.
Having ridden on the road for almost 20 years, I can share from my experience that riding fixed on the road is both fun, and beneficial. Track standing at lights is much easier (plus it saves you unclipping and then clipping back in, meaning you can get away from cars at lights a little quicker), and heading down a hill at speed pedalling over 160rpm is fantastic.
However, if you DO decide to go fixed gear. USE A FRONT BRAKE! If you haven't ridden fixed before (be it on a velodrome or on the street), get used to it first. Get the idea in your head that you CAN NOT stop pedalling.
Once you get that sorted, and you've got some fenders if you're in a place where it rains a lot, then you'll be all good. Also, if you have to lock your bike up somewhere, use a road wheel on the front so you can just take it with you, and only need to put the lock around the frame and the rear wheel.
I've certainly felt an increase in leg strength after riding a 74" gear over the last ten winters. I also think that it has improved my spin, especially after doing some reasonably long descents.
I've done three centuries on a fixed gear in the last three years and find the experience both painful and gratifying. Look at the poor ******s from the TdF in the early years: all on fixed gears riding the cols on unsealed roads.
Don't know really what his motivation was, but I saw Tyler Hamilton training on a fixed gear in Spain, so there must be something to it.
O
I've done three centuries on a fixed gear in the last three years and find the experience both painful and gratifying. Look at the poor ******s from the TdF in the early years: all on fixed gears riding the cols on unsealed roads.
Don't know really what his motivation was, but I saw Tyler Hamilton training on a fixed gear in Spain, so there must be something to it.
O
I train and race crits on a single speed. You can get a nice frame and fork for ~$250 from a couple of companies, I think Felt has the best deal though. Spec with old components from road bike and buy a set of Vuelta wheels for $125 from Nashbar. (Were on sale not too long ago).
Stick with a 50 to 53 on the front. Just b/c it's winter doesn't mean you need to ride like grandma. If you race at Cat 3 or above, you should be fine with a 50 x 16 or 53 x 17 on pretty much anything but the steepest climb. Helps you gauge your strength and you'll never whine about being in the wrong gear on your regular bike again.
I'd also recommend going with a single speed rather than a fixed gear. (I see that 53x11 has already said something to that effect). There's a difference between actually turning the pedals and having your momentum turning your legs for you in the dead spots.
Stick with a 50 to 53 on the front. Just b/c it's winter doesn't mean you need to ride like grandma. If you race at Cat 3 or above, you should be fine with a 50 x 16 or 53 x 17 on pretty much anything but the steepest climb. Helps you gauge your strength and you'll never whine about being in the wrong gear on your regular bike again.
I'd also recommend going with a single speed rather than a fixed gear. (I see that 53x11 has already said something to that effect). There's a difference between actually turning the pedals and having your momentum turning your legs for you in the dead spots.
flicker said:
My preference is about 72", for a little insurance on the downhills. Drop bar, not too deep, front brake, and a water bottle in my back pocket because track bikes don't have bosses. Don't worry about pedals, whatever you use you'll get sorted out. I used to ride home with clips & cleats and a bag of groceries in my right arm, I now use old Looks because the shoes are more comfortable.
Apologies for adding to this thread if it is past it's sell by date, but I have only just returned from enjoying a two month "holiday" from posting and so was unable to contribute earlier.
So here goes; From my experience as a cycle courier in Central London, on and off for 10 years, I would add this as my tuppence worth:
Go fixed. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT ride a single speed!. Apologies to whoever recommended doing so above, but single speed bikes for the road are the single biggest waste of money and the most utterly redundant invention you could ever hope to find. Instead, send your money to me and in return I will give you the following brilliant piece of advice:
Ride your geared road bike. And DON'T CHANGE GEAR. There. Saved you buying a new bike for no reason and looking like a poser. Because there is only one thing worse than being a poser....and that is looking like a poser! Trust me, I have posed with the best of them, I know.
Fixed information, in my, as always, humble opinion, hope it helps:
1. Crank lengths. Don't ride anything longer than 165. Otherwise you run the risk of foot strike on the road when you are cornering tightly, and a very nasty spill as a result. Looks funny on youtube, but hurts like F*ck! You also end up kicking your front wheel every time you turn your handlebars further than 45%, unless you have feet the size of a hobbit. Again can be dangerous/ cause for ridicule.
2. Don't run even gears. (i.e 48X16, 48X18 etc.). You will go through rear tyres like a hXXker goes through panties, especially if you are skidding too. (Much like the aforementioned hXXker)
3. Don't let yourself be dragged into any piXXing contest about big gear ratios. To start with err on the small side, and put another larger gear (2 teeth bigger) on the flip side of your hub, to play about with as you get used to riding fixed. I would recommend maybe 48X19 (c.68 inches) to start, unless you have legs like a chicken, and a 17 or 15 on the flip for when you are feeling butch.
4. Only ride a front brake. Seriously. ONLY. NEVER a rear brake. It can take very little effort to lock up the rear wheel on a fixed gear, if you do this and don't know how to control what happens....well just make sure someone is on hand to film it, so I can watch it on youtube and say I told you so.
5. Remember this phrase: Buy cheap buy twice! If you think you are getting a bargain purchasing some pre tensile steel "courier" bike from the interweb for 200 bucks, let me assure you that when you snap the bottom bracket/ cranks/ chain etc etc, you will end up chucking the whole thing away. Most of these cheap pre builds do not use standard thread sizing for bb's/ headsets etc. and are impossible to buy spares for as a result. You are much better off either buying a cheap second hand road frame and building your own fixed gear with a freestyle rear hub, or getting a decent frame from surly, on one, independent fabs etc. etc. or even a good old fuji.
6. Ride spd MTB cleats, or if you want to go old school, toe clips. NOT standard one sided Keo's, shimano Road etc. The only way to ride with Keo's is if your track stands are so immaculate, that you never have to unclip. But the downside is you look like a twXt!
7. Use a comfortable saddle. Padded. Make sure it supports your sit bones and that you aren't balancing your entire body weight through your perineum. You stand out of the saddle less on a fixed gear so therefore run the risk of injuring your best buddies if you don't monitor the situation. Beware the numb cXck! Seriously. Especially if you ride any cobbles.
Ok hope that helps....fixed gear cycling is great training, seriously, it improves your bike handling skills, is less hassle with cleaning and maintaining and generally just great fun. I hope you enjoy it.
But please don't ever call it a "fixie". Not even on your own.
And I didn't even mention Alberto....not once....wow!
So here goes; From my experience as a cycle courier in Central London, on and off for 10 years, I would add this as my tuppence worth:
Go fixed. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT ride a single speed!. Apologies to whoever recommended doing so above, but single speed bikes for the road are the single biggest waste of money and the most utterly redundant invention you could ever hope to find. Instead, send your money to me and in return I will give you the following brilliant piece of advice:
Ride your geared road bike. And DON'T CHANGE GEAR. There. Saved you buying a new bike for no reason and looking like a poser. Because there is only one thing worse than being a poser....and that is looking like a poser! Trust me, I have posed with the best of them, I know.
Fixed information, in my, as always, humble opinion, hope it helps:
1. Crank lengths. Don't ride anything longer than 165. Otherwise you run the risk of foot strike on the road when you are cornering tightly, and a very nasty spill as a result. Looks funny on youtube, but hurts like F*ck! You also end up kicking your front wheel every time you turn your handlebars further than 45%, unless you have feet the size of a hobbit. Again can be dangerous/ cause for ridicule.
2. Don't run even gears. (i.e 48X16, 48X18 etc.). You will go through rear tyres like a hXXker goes through panties, especially if you are skidding too. (Much like the aforementioned hXXker)
3. Don't let yourself be dragged into any piXXing contest about big gear ratios. To start with err on the small side, and put another larger gear (2 teeth bigger) on the flip side of your hub, to play about with as you get used to riding fixed. I would recommend maybe 48X19 (c.68 inches) to start, unless you have legs like a chicken, and a 17 or 15 on the flip for when you are feeling butch.
4. Only ride a front brake. Seriously. ONLY. NEVER a rear brake. It can take very little effort to lock up the rear wheel on a fixed gear, if you do this and don't know how to control what happens....well just make sure someone is on hand to film it, so I can watch it on youtube and say I told you so.
5. Remember this phrase: Buy cheap buy twice! If you think you are getting a bargain purchasing some pre tensile steel "courier" bike from the interweb for 200 bucks, let me assure you that when you snap the bottom bracket/ cranks/ chain etc etc, you will end up chucking the whole thing away. Most of these cheap pre builds do not use standard thread sizing for bb's/ headsets etc. and are impossible to buy spares for as a result. You are much better off either buying a cheap second hand road frame and building your own fixed gear with a freestyle rear hub, or getting a decent frame from surly, on one, independent fabs etc. etc. or even a good old fuji.
6. Ride spd MTB cleats, or if you want to go old school, toe clips. NOT standard one sided Keo's, shimano Road etc. The only way to ride with Keo's is if your track stands are so immaculate, that you never have to unclip. But the downside is you look like a twXt!
7. Use a comfortable saddle. Padded. Make sure it supports your sit bones and that you aren't balancing your entire body weight through your perineum. You stand out of the saddle less on a fixed gear so therefore run the risk of injuring your best buddies if you don't monitor the situation. Beware the numb cXck! Seriously. Especially if you ride any cobbles.
Ok hope that helps....fixed gear cycling is great training, seriously, it improves your bike handling skills, is less hassle with cleaning and maintaining and generally just great fun. I hope you enjoy it.
But please don't ever call it a "fixie". Not even on your own.
And I didn't even mention Alberto....not once....wow!
It's also a break from the road bike grind we've all been doing since last spring. Just like the top marathoners and 10k runners break it up with some cross country in the fall, cyclists should take a break, too, with cyclocross, track, or some fixed-gear miles on the road.
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