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Gears & Climbing

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Jul 27, 2009
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what are the pro's cadences up climbs these days? Maybe the rest of us mere mortals should aim for a similar cadence, but obviously a slower speed? Hence running 34-27s makes sense?

I've heard that Sastre used a 39/27 up Alpe D'Huez (though that doesn't necessarily mean he was in the lowest gear). Contador used a 34/28 on the Zoncolan. The Zoncolan is a crazy climb, however, with stats almost as tough as Mount Washington.
 
Aug 16, 2009
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Get gearing that helps.

Get a 12-27.

I ride some mountains (sections with 15%+) and have a compact front and a set of wheels with a 13-29 on them. I'm approching old and fat (~180 lbs) and need the help to get up them, but with that gearing I can make it. You will shed fat and build muscle quickly in the hills.
 
This seems a relevant thread to ask rather than starting a new one.

So I'm going to the Alps (l'Alpe, Chamrousse, Galibier) in July and will have to change from standard 52-39 to compact 50-34 (cassette=11-28). My question, as I tend to get confused with matters of gearing, is the crankset the only thing I will need to change? And refit the chain again obviously. :eek:

Thanks.
 

oldborn

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May 14, 2010
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Someone gonna tell you that you need new compact front mech. I am not sure about it. Lot of people swap their compact cranks and just left old front mech on.
Yes, chain could dropped on 34.
IMHO (i love it) it should work (but give less satisfactory shifting), my advice try the compact crank with your present first mech. If it doesn t work well then try a compact mech.
No sense in spending money if you don t need to.
 
Mar 13, 2009
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Not sure about anything other than DA, but just adjust the front down a couple of mm and you will be fine, allen key and 20 sec of your life is all it takes (too much gap and you are more likely to drop the chain outside going into the big ring)
 
Jun 16, 2009
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Notso Swift said:
Not sure about anything other than DA, but just adjust the front down a couple of mm and you will be fine, allen key and 20 sec of your life is all it takes (too much gap and you are more likely to drop the chain outside going into the big ring)

Also, you may need to consider filing the bottom of the mech hanger to get it down a bit further. I did this on mine after a year of the aforementioned chain throwing. Mech was still too high so I filed the hanger slightly and the new position is just as secure but low enough that I have stong instantaneous shifting using a 10 year old mech on a 1 year old compact chainset.

Def no need to get a new one.
 

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