Issue: new rims - tight tyres

[Archibald]

hoping some of those knowledgable about wheels and rims can answer this.

brand new built wheels - DT 465s on ultegra hubs.
200m into first ride on them and pfffft!! the tyre pops off the rim pinching the tube - no flat as it held tight.
no biggy, probably just the apprentice puting the tyre back on after the build.

replacing the inner tube and I found that the tyre was incredibly tight on the rim - I broke one tyre lever trying to open the one side to get the inner tube out! (the tyre is a folding conti ultra gatorskin) Never had this much trouble getting a tyre off, or back on (for that matter).

Is this something that would be the difference in the new rims to the old? (previously CXP33s that were slightly concave on the braking surface) A touch bigger diameter perhaps on DT Swiss than Mavic? I've got shimano R550s on the commuter and don't have this issue with the rubino pros I use on them.

 

[LugHugger]

Hey, mate! It might be that the braking surface depth is a bit taller on the DT over the Mavic as you say. Are the Conti's new? I ask because they are notorious for being a tight fit. I've lost count of the number of sliced knuckles I've suffered getting new Conti's on rims.

 

[Archibald]

Hey, mate! It might be that the braking surface depth is a bit taller on the DT over the Mavic as you say. Are the Conti's new? I ask because they are notorious for being a tight fit. I've lost count of the number of sliced knuckles I've suffered getting new Conti's on rims.

the conti's aren't that new - I know one was on for the sunrise 100, and the other has done maybe a hundred to two hundred k's. Both were easy to fit on the mavics.

speaking of which, I'll be up there this weekend. will pm you.

 

[laziali]

Contis are really tight. Some find them a nightmare when combined with campy wheels (although not fulcrums which are owned by campy). You could try Schwalbes which can generally be removed without using levers. If Schwalbes are tight then I would say it is def your rims. Good luck!

 

[brianf7]

Start at the valve and work around the rim in warm room or sun and gardualy push the tyre on dont use tyre levers untill the last bit if realy needed.
Take steroids to strenghen hands first.

 

[gregod]

i've got contis on campy wheels and they are tight. getting them on and off i use a plastic tire lever and spray on soapy water from a mister. works like a charm.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

hoping some of those knowledgable about wheels and rims can answer this.

brand new built wheels - DT 465s on ultegra hubs.
200m into first ride on them and pfffft!! the tyre pops off the rim pinching the tube - no flat as it held tight.
no biggy, probably just the apprentice puting the tyre back on after the build.

replacing the inner tube and I found that the tyre was incredibly tight on the rim - I broke one tyre lever trying to open the one side to get the inner tube out! (the tyre is a folding conti ultra gatorskin) Never had this much trouble getting a tyre off, or back on (for that matter).

Is this something that would be the difference in the new rims to the old? (previously CXP33s that were slightly concave on the braking surface) A touch bigger diameter perhaps on DT Swiss than Mavic? I've got shimano R550s on the commuter and don't have this issue with the rubino pros I use on them.

DT are a wee bit bigger, not as bad as when they were 1.1, but still a wee bit big.

 

[richwagmn]

http://www.amazon.com/Quik-Stik-Tire-Changer-Levers/dp/B000C128PC

A decent tire lever will make quick work of a tight tire.

 

[42x16ss]

DT are a wee bit bigger, not as bad as when they were 1.1, but still a wee bit big.

Agreed. I race on DT RR1450's and they are VERY tight. I usually have to use a softer tyre on them or carry 3 very stiff tyre levers. I measured them against my Mavic training wheels and the braking surface is just a couple of mm higher on the DT's. This doesn't sound like much but it makes getting heavier tyres off in a hurry an absolute PAIN! I tried using Gatorskins on them and took them off after my second puncture because changing them was a nightmare.

 

[Archibald]

Start at the valve and work around the rim in warm room or sun and gardualy push the tyre on dont use tyre levers untill the last bit if realy needed.
Take steroids to strenghen hands first.

that's how I do it (without the steroids part). Never needed the tyre levers with the Rubinos on the R500s, or conti's on the CXP33s...


so it's looking like I've got the tightest tyres on larger rims - brilliant

 

[ustabe]

Start at the valve and work around the rim in warm room or sun and gardualy push the tyre on dont use tyre levers untill the last bit if realy needed.
Take steroids to strenghen hands first.

Start opposite the valve and work around the rim toward the valve. Seriously. This allows the bead to seat in the deepest part of the channel as you're struggling. After you pop the last part of the bead in, push the valve stem to seat everything, and you're done.

Thinner rim strips also help. I like Rox Ultralites.

 

[durianrider]

Another reason I dont rate DT rims.

Mavic and velocity are easy to fit tyres. Try putting the tyre in the sun or in the back of a hot car for 10 mins or so it warms up a bit. That should make it easier.

 

[42x16ss]

Another reason I dont rate DT rims.

Mavic and velocity are easy to fit tyres. Try putting the tyre in the sun or in the back of a hot car for 10 mins or so it warms up a bit. That should make it easier.

Agreed. I just had my DT Swiss wheels rebuilt with Open Pro rims for this reason.

DT's hubs and spokes are great, some of the best you can get. So why do their rims have to be such a PITA to change????

 

[Hawkwood]

Try talcum powder it acts as a lubricant, tip it into the tyre and over the rim. this works for me.