New Wheels New Noise

[Stroker Ace]

I received a wheel upgrade via my sponsored friend who left for college on the east coast. They're the Zipp CSC training wheels. My old wheel set were Mavic Cosmics hand-me-downs. My conundrum is that after switching the cassette over to the new wheels I am getting quite a bit of chain noise in the upper two cogs. I made some minor rear derailuer adjustments and tried various cassette spacers but all to no avail. I took the bike down to my LBS and had the wheels trued and inspected and the derailuer adjusted. They did as such and made the proper adjustments and told me the problem was most likely from the rear hub being a bit loose but overall they are in great shape and should function fine. Their brief test ride didn't reveal any flaws. Well, the noise is still there and I've tried everything I can to relieve it. I've broken down the components and given them a thorough cleaning and lubrication, continuous adjustments to the rear derailuer, etc. yet still noise. Below is my component list.

Frame: Scott Addict
Component Grouppo: SRAM Red
Chain/Cassette: Dura Ace 11-27 (uni-directional chain installed properly)
Wheel set: Zipp CSC

It's supposed to rain tomorrow so I may try switching to a 12-25 and see if that makes a difference. I am most concerned about premature part wear than anything else. The chain doesn't seem to be slipping though at times it seems to be on the verge of it. It probably doesn't help that I'm 10 pounds over my fit weight of 185, but even at that I'm a bit heavier than two Schlecks tied together. Any advice, harsh sarcasm, money or beer is appreciated.
Cheers,
Ken

 

[brianf7]

I had similar problems with sealed bearings in rear wheel eventualy found a bit of locktight is one bearing changed that and all is OK now.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

I received a wheel upgrade via my sponsored friend who left for college on the east coast. They're the Zipp CSC training wheels. My old wheel set were Mavic Cosmics hand-me-downs. My conundrum is that after switching the cassette over to the new wheels I am getting quite a bit of chain noise in the upper two cogs. I made some minor rear derailuer adjustments and tried various cassette spacers but all to no avail. I took the bike down to my LBS and had the wheels trued and inspected and the derailuer adjusted. They did as such and made the proper adjustments and told me the problem was most likely from the rear hub being a bit loose but overall they are in great shape and should function fine. Their brief test ride didn't reveal any flaws. Well, the noise is still there and I've tried everything I can to relieve it. I've broken down the components and given them a thorough cleaning and lubrication, continuous adjustments to the rear derailuer, etc. yet still noise. Below is my component list.

Frame: Scott Addict
Component Grouppo: SRAM Red
Chain/Cassette: Dura Ace 11-27 (uni-directional chain installed properly)
Wheel set: Zipp CSC

It's supposed to rain tomorrow so I may try switching to a 12-25 and see if that makes a difference. I am most concerned about premature part wear than anything else. The chain doesn't seem to be slipping though at times it seems to be on the verge of it. It probably doesn't help that I'm 10 pounds over my fit weight of 185, but even at that I'm a bit heavier than two Schlecks tied together. Any advice, harsh sarcasm, money or beer is appreciated.
Cheers,
Ken

11-28 methinks and if the noise is just in the 2 lowest gear cogs(biggest cogs), try screwing in the b limit screw as the top pulley may be hitting the cogs. If it's all the way in, your chain might be 1 link too long.

 

[Black Dog]

Is the only difference the new wheels? Put the cassette on your old wheels to see if the noise is there. Is so, then you have a drive train issue and the wheels are not the problem.

 

[dsut4392]

11-28 methinks and if the noise is just in the 2 lowest gear cogs(biggest cogs), try screwing in the b limit screw as the top pulley may be hitting the cogs. If it's all the way in, your chain might be 1 link too long.

This sounds the most likely explanation.

Another possibility is that the cassette isn't on the freehub straight, which results in the teeth moving side to side as the wheel rotates. Easiest to identify by looking at the cassette from behind as you spin the pedals backwards. Causes most noise and shifting issues in the bigger cogs as there is more deflection with larger radius.

I had this issue with an ultegra 6600 cassette on an Easton R4SL hub, on which the splines ramp up at the inside of the freehub instead of ending with an abrupt step. Basically instead of the inside face of the cassette spider sitting flush against the freehub, one side bound against the small ramp in the splines and the other side got squashed in, deforming the spider in the process. I was able to re-use the damaged cassette on my shimano wheels after filing off the burr where the spider had been squashed, but nothing could make it go on straight on the Eastons (I suppose a thin spacer might have worked, after filing off the damaged bit of the spider). Incidentally a 6700 cassette went straight on without issue as the grooves for the freehub splines are different.

 

[Stroker Ace]

Thanks for all of the input. I think dsut4392 may be onto something. If I recall correctly I did notice that the freewheel seemed to wobble. I'll have to check it later this week however as my wife went into labor on Saturday and we delivered a baby boy early Sunday morning. Not that any of you know me or care but I just couldn't help sharing. Thanks again for all the input. This truly is a great cycling forum they've set up here.
Cheers!
Ken

 

[Black Dog]

Congratulations! Expecting my second in a few weeks. Enjoy.