Modern pentathlon has voted secretly to replace horse riding with cycling to preserve its Olympic status after a coach punched a horse in Tokyo
www.theguardian.com
Also, I read this interview with sport climber Alex Megos and found it very impressive because he sounds super honest and reflective, totally different from your usual sports interview:
https://www.kicker.de/alex-megos-ma...che-ich-da-fuer-einen-mist-mit-877244/artikel
A few excerpts, google translated:
Alex Megos is a passionate rock climber. Nevertheless, in 2018 he decided to focus his career on the goal of the Olympics for three years.
Because Corona led to the one-year postponement of the games in Japan's capital, the 28-year-old from Erlangen was able to turn his back on the competition walls and "celebrated" in autumn 2020 by climbing the "Bibliography" route in Céüse, France (highest level of difficulty 9c, now graded by mutual agreement 9b +) a widely acclaimed success.
Mr. Megos, how satisfied were you with your performance in Tokyo?
It's going ok. To miss a place in the final is of course crap. I should have done a better place in bouldering or lead, then I would have made it to the final. I am particularly dissatisfied with my lead performance. The bouldering performance was actually better than expected with sixth place. I already thought to myself, ey blatant, that could have been a lot worse. On the other hand, it should have gone much better in lead climbing than sixth place, which really excited me.
Keyword bouldering: You had reached a top and four zones. Others made two tops and got nothing baked on two other bouldering problems. How do you rate the rating scale in bouldering, where only zones or tops are counted?
This rough grid in the evaluation is often disadvantageous. Someone who struggles to get to the zone rating is rated the same as someone who cannot hold the top grip. For us climbers this is a huge difference in performance, but in the end it doesn't matter at all in the rating. Clearly, I don't think it's that good.
Changes in the evaluation of the bouldering performance are apparently on the way.
Yes, that's up for debate for the next Olympic Games in Paris in 2024. I think the Americans have a good system in their national competitions. Reaching the top grip brings 25 points and then there are three more zones with five, ten and 15 points. This system would have been cool for Tokyo too. For us athletes, because even we didn't really see who's now where - but it would have been much more understandable for the audience as well.
The confusion was then especially visible in the last competitions, when in the lead qualification and even more extreme in the lead final nobody really knew what was going on in the ranking.
With the lead, every climber has completely shaken up the ranking with his performance. Even we athletes and the coaching teams had no idea what would happen in the ranking if someone managed one move more than another. In short, it was totally confusing. For example, Adam Ondra felt gold or a medal almost certainly, and then Jakob Schubert comes as the last climber and pushes Ondra off to sixth with his performance. There's too much drama in the rating system and it doesn't feel good anymore. And I can also imagine that Adam is frustrated.
Back to your lead performance in Tokyo. How did it happen that you screwed up your entry into the Olympic finals in your favorite discipline, of all places?
I was in a really good mood in the training camp shortly before the Olympics in Innsbruck, I was able to assess that because Schubert also trained there. But when it came down to it in the lead qualification, I just didn't feel good climbing the wall. I was a bit nervous, and at the beginning of the route I grabbed hold of the handles. I don't know exactly what it was, but it wasn't a good performance on my part.
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Also due to these blatant differences in performance: How did climbing at the Olympics look to the spectators?
I think speed climbing went down the best with the audience. Even the greatest layman understands immediately what is going on - whoever is first at the top has won. What was really bad was the route setting when bouldering. For people who know something about bouldering, it was very boring to watch, for people who know nothing about bouldering, it was an absolute disaster. With the bouldering world cups before the Olympics, the route screwdrivers should have had enough experience in my opinion to see that the bouldering problems were hopelessly too difficult for both women and men. A grip in the toilet, there is no other way of saying it. It's a shame that this discipline was destroyed a bit at the Olympics.
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At World Cups you hang out with all the climbers and coaches, you can watch the others after your own performance, exchange ideas and cheer each other on. That actually belongs to the togetherness in competitive climbing. In Tokyo, on the other hand, you were picked up directly from the wall, almost transported away, then pushed through a media channel, where you were picked up by the journalists at will and then transported back to the isolation zone. In terms of atmosphere, that's a huge difference. Ultimately, I didn't see a single person climb in Tokyo - except for Jan in training.
Many of these measures were due to the pandemic - what remains of the major Olympic event?
It definitely opened my eyes to how the sports industry works when it comes to more money. What a blatant effort was made in Tokyo, only for the fact that we did a little bit of climbing in two days. It's crazy how much money was spent on a competition that was mediocre. You have to ask yourself whether you want to go along with it or whether that makes climbing for you.
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Are you referring primarily to the amount of time it took to prepare for the Olympics after qualifying in August 2019?
Yes, but I am also concerned with the environmental aspect. From this point of view, these Olympic Games were a disaster. The air conditioning behind the climbing wall was a blatant symbol of this, as the outdoor area was cooled down for us athletes - with a heat of almost 40 degrees. When I saw that, I decided I didn't want to be a part of it anymore. To fly to China for the World Cup for a week is just not worth it to me anymore. And even while preparing for the Olympics, I sometimes thought to myself, what the hell am I doing there?