Scott

[Ten Percent Grade]

Can I hear some opinions in favor of/against? I'm trying to build the least expensive ultra light bike to be used exclusively for hill climbing and the Addict seems like a solid choice.

Thoughts??

 

[the_kman]

exclusively for hill climbing?

so youll only be racing uphill? unless thats the case (which is weird) your probably wasting money... maybe someone else can correct me but imo weight can be handy for desents etc and aero is just as important then weight. But if u want a scott cheap and light, id say the cr1 off ebay. the old models are freaking nice bikes, reletivly inexpensive and very light.

 

[brianf7]

Can I hear some opinions in favor of/against? I'm trying to build the least expensive ultra light bike to be used exclusively for hill climbing and the Addict seems like a solid choice.

Thoughts??

Most light bikes get you up the hills if you can climb but what is more important is how they handle going down.
No use being first over the top and then everyone passing you going down.

 

[PCutter]

To actually answer your question, yes it will be hard to go past the Addict for the best $ per weight frame - as a weight weenie, its the basis of my build. As for comments about going downhill/riding before the hill etc. given the Addict is fine for HTC-Columbia to get around France Im sure its more than capable of meeting the needs of a club racer.

If you require a more relaxed style set-up, the Scott CR1 is also a good $/weight option, but is slightly heavier than the Addict. If you're a traveler, consider the lower spec'd Addict without ISP as they can be a bit difficult packing in bike boxes for flights. Though again, the ISP spec'd bike is the lightest option.

 

[ergmonkey]

If you're a traveler, consider the lower spec'd Addict without ISP as they can be a bit difficult packing in bike boxes

True. But, I'd add that "if you're a traveler," then you might want to seriously consider skipping an over-sized/super-thin-walled carbon tube bike all together. They might be strong in the directions in which pedaling forces are applied, but that's about it.

You can add about 250g of frame weight, change none of the other super-light specs, and not have to worry so much about wasting your entire $4,000+ investment on an unfortunate side impact.

Just sayin'...

 

[Ten Percent Grade]

exclusively for hill climbing?

so youll only be racing uphill? unless thats the case (which is weird) your probably wasting money... maybe someone else can correct me but imo weight can be handy for desents etc and aero is just as important then weight. But if u want a scott cheap and light, id say the cr1 off ebay. the old models are freaking nice bikes, reletivly inexpensive and very light.

I live in the Northeast United States and there are several hill climb races that consist of riders being shuttled down from the top of the mountain after they finish. In fact, some don't even allow you to descend as they exceed 20% in places.

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[Ten Percent Grade]

To actually answer your question, yes it will be hard to go past the Addict for the best $ per weight frame - as a weight weenie, its the basis of my build. As for comments about going downhill/riding before the hill etc. given the Addict is fine for HTC-Columbia to get around France Im sure its more than capable of meeting the needs of a club racer.

If you require a more relaxed style set-up, the Scott CR1 is also a good $/weight option, but is slightly heavier than the Addict. If you're a traveler, consider the lower spec'd Addict without ISP as they can be a bit difficult packing in bike boxes for flights. Though again, the ISP spec'd bike is the lightest option.

I might have gone overboard when I said "exclusively", but I intend to use it heavily on hill climb races. That said, I will also use it to train on lengthy rides and even some longer and flatter one day races so your point about HTC-Columbia is a good one.

I guess the heart of my question is about the reliability of the machine. I have come across a few horror stories about cracked frames and I didn't know if it was a widespread issue. As I understand it, Scott has a 5 year warranty so unless I smash it up myself I should be covered.

I'll check out the CR1, thanks!

 

[SlantParallelogram]

Has anybody tried a Scott Speedster before?

They are on sale at some of the discounters at a price that is hard to pass up. I would swap the flat bars to drops, the triple to a double, and change to a close ratio cassette, and it seems like it would be a decent bike.

 

[SlantParallelogram]

Has anybody tried a Scott Speedster before?

They are on sale at some of the discounters at a price that is hard to pass up. I would swap the flat bars to drops, the triple to a double, and change to a close ratio cassette, and it seems like it would be a decent bike.

Nobody?

 

[Notso Swift]

I don't know the bike but if it has flats and you change to drops your gear leavers brakes are going to need to change, those leavers aren't cheap...

 

[SlantParallelogram]

I don't know the bike but if it has flats and you change to drops your gear leavers brakes are going to need to change, those leavers aren't cheap...

That is true. There is a drop bar version of the same bike, and it costs $200 dollars more. I probably wouldn't switch the bars right away. So I would have some time to save up for the levers.

 

[Aapjes]

That is true. There is a drop bar version of the same bike, and it costs $200 dollars more. I probably wouldn't switch the bars right away. So I would have some time to save up for the levers.

Also keep in mind that the geometry may be different for the flat bar and the drop bar frames. The top tube should be considerably longer for flat bar use. Look at the Cotic Roadrat frames for instance, where there are two different models intended for drop vs flat bars:

http://www.cotic.co.uk/order/Framebuilder_roadrat

So the frame may no longer fit right if you switch bars.

 

[SlantParallelogram]

Also keep in mind that the geometry may be different for the flat bar and the drop bar frames. The top tube should be considerably longer for flat bar use. Look at the Cotic Roadrat frames for instance, where there are two different models intended for drop vs flat bars:

http://www.cotic.co.uk/order/Framebuilder_roadrat

So the frame may no longer fit right if you switch bars.

That might be true. I will have to check the geometry page. Although I think it is the same frame. They have the same paint job anyway.