Tip for handlebar tape

[DaveMc]

Here is a tip for anyone replacing handlebar tape. After removing the old tape and cleaning the bars of any residual sticky residue first wind the bars with electrical insulation tape sticky side up. This adds an additional layer of "stick" to help keep the new tape in place and makes the adhesion more resistand to rain, sweat, split fluid from drink bottles etc. Seems to work well.

 

[Tom Morris]

I like to put friction tape under mine. It prevents the bar tape from moving around.

 

[Argon Man]

Most of the tape I use has its own adhesive on the underside. How do you guys go at keeping it clean? I have tried the windex trick but find armourall wipes wrok pretty good.

 

[Slumdog-Zomergem]

I'm using the new CHARGE synthetic leather tape: a bit like the old bike ribbon but with a bit more substance & the embossing make it grippy enough.

 

[dekindy]

New Leather Tape Brand

http://handlebra.com/index.htm

Here is some new leather tape that will set the standard in quality for leather tape. He is a few weeks away from having the web commerce enabled for purchasing. Everyone that has tried has been blown away by the product. I saw the tape at the NAHBS and he is not exaggerating when he states that the seams will disappear.

I am not wild about the name but the slogan says it all. "Wait til you get your hands on this" says it all. I have never used leather tape and have been content with Fizik. The next time I need tape this is what I am trying.

He gives very detailed instructions which includes a recommendation to use a base of athletic tape or hockey tape to prevent any slippage during a rainstorm. I felt some treated with Obenauf paste and other tape treated with Obenauf oil and could not decide which I liked the best.

This really a labor of love for the man that developed this. He put a lot of effort over a period of time to bring this product to market. I hope he is a success.

 

[bjbbiker]

I hate the sticky adhesive and like my tape ultra thin so it moving around isnt really a problem because of how hard I stretch it. as for cleaning, rubbing alcohol works really good with a vegetable brush

 

[Matt.Booth]

I had an idea to solve the white bar tape, well sort of problem. Basically of it getting dirty. Get some white bars or powder coat some and then rap clear bar tape over the top. Im gonna have to try it. What do you guys think?

 

[frameforum]

Here is a tip for anyone replacing handlebar tape. After removing the old tape and cleaning the bars of any residual sticky residue first wind the bars with electrical insulation tape sticky side up. This adds an additional layer of "stick" to help keep the new tape in place and makes the adhesion more resistand to rain, sweat, split fluid from drink bottles etc. Seems to work well.

There's a right direction and a wrong direction for wrapping handlebar tape.

Go in the right direction and there's minimal need for adhesive. Go in the wrong direction, and pressure from your grip will be constantly trying to unravel the tape.

See HERE>>> ("Style Tip 2") .

 

[rstu089]

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[ElChingon]

Here is a tip for anyone replacing handlebar tape. After removing the old tape and cleaning the bars of any residual sticky residue first wind the bars with electrical insulation tape sticky side up. This adds an additional layer of "stick" to help keep the new tape in place and makes the adhesion more resistand to rain, sweat, split fluid from drink bottles etc. Seems to work well.

If you need extra sticky tape to keep your bar tape on you're doing something wrong or the tape is bad to begin with. Any or almost any bar tape has more than enough adhesion to stay one, again if put on right. I've never ever needed extra tape to keep the bar tape on, other than its already sticky stuff. Something tells me some people are doing it all wrong, especially with sticky side up electrical insulation tape before the real bar tape, that sounds like a disaster. I can only imagine what happens after a rain ride, and on white bar tape , please include pictures after doing a rain ride with that setup.

Oh yea, extra points for tuck and roll on the end caps

 

[BroDeal]

If you need extra sticky tape to keep your bar tape on you're doing something wrong or the tape is bad to begin with. Any or almost any bar tape has more than enough adhesion to stay one, again if put on right. I've never ever needed extra tape to keep the bar tape on, other than its already sticky stuff. Something tells me some people are doing it all wrong, especially with sticky side up electrical insulation tape before the real bar tape, that sounds like a disaster. I can only imagine what happens after a rain ride, and on white bar tape , please include pictures after doing a rain ride with that setup.

I don't think it is so much of doing it wrong as some manufacturers screwing the customer by including just enough tape to fit if the bar is wrapped perfectly. If it is not wrapped perfectly then some spots do not have enough overlap. An extra eight to twelve inches of tape would solve most problems.

 

[ElChingon]

I don't think it is so much of doing it wrong as some manufacturers screwing the customer by including just enough tape to fit if the bar is wrapped perfectly. If it is not wrapped perfectly then some spots do not have enough overlap. An extra eight to twelve inches of tape would solve most problems.

What size bars are you using that you need an extra 8" to 12"? I always end up with extra tape using 42" 's and pretty much have tried the all the major brands and some off beat stuff as well. I keep thinking if I tape my extra bar tape I can make enough to cover them again...

I also make sure there is no bars showing through by the ergo levers, either an extra strip is provided or I cut a small strip approx. 3" long from the tape to cover any thing that might show up in the cross over going over the ergo levers.

 

[BroDeal]

What size bars are you using that you need an extra 8" to 12"? I always end up with extra tape using 42" 's and pretty much have tried the all the major brands and some off beat stuff as well. I keep thinking if I tape my extra bar tape I can make enough to cover them again...

I generally use various types of cork tape. I may just suck at wrapping bars. Maybe I use more overlap than I should.

 

[biker jk]

There's a right direction and a wrong direction for wrapping handlebar tape.

Go in the right direction and there's minimal need for adhesive. Go in the wrong direction, and pressure from your grip will be constantly trying to unravel the tape.

See HERE>>> ("Style Tip 2") .

The Park Tools web site suggests you wrap the bars counter-clockwise on the right and clockwise on the left the exact opposite to that suggested in the article above.

 

[luckyboy]

Don't know how much of a stupid question this is, but wrapping over cables like this isn't going to come out well is it?

 

[on3m@n@rmy]

There's a right direction and a wrong direction for wrapping handlebar tape.

Go in the right direction and there's minimal need for adhesive. Go in the wrong direction, and pressure from your grip will be constantly trying to unravel the tape.

See HERE>>> ("Style Tip 2") .

Good link.

 

[ElChingon]

Don't know how much of a stupid question this is, but wrapping over cables like this isn't going to come out well is it?

Not sure what you mean, guessing, on Shimano setups you can't wrap the shifter cables but you do the brake cables. Or do you want to wrap or bring in the shifter cables and wrap them somehow?

 

[Martin318is]

I just use two spots of electrical tape to secure the cables in line with the bar and then wrap the bar tape with no adhesive added.

I generally prefer the Bontrager tape but I got some Sram with my new white sram hoods and it seems equally good.

regarding tape length, I run 44" bars and have never had an issue with tape length, usually need to trim about 2" off the end when I cut in the diagonal before securing the end.

 

[luckyboy]

Not sure what you mean, guessing, on Shimano setups you can't wrap the shifter cables but you do the brake cables. Or do you want to wrap or bring in the shifter cables and wrap them somehow?

Yeah the shifter cables. I mean you can't just bend the cables back on themselves because the curve'll be too tight.

 

[ElChingon]

Yeah the shifter cables. I mean you can't just bend the cables back on themselves because the curve'll be too tight.

Well I've seen guys with the Nokon cables turn it back and able to wrap it, due to the Nokon's being much more flexible, but yea, you'll have a tight curve. I could also visualize making the cables even longer and having them reach across and wrapping them up once they reach the other side?

I'm no Campy so don't have much experience with the Shimano setup and options.

 

[TheDude]

Yeah the shifter cables. I mean you can't just bend the cables back on themselves because the curve'll be too tight.

Easy fix, replace with Campy brifters. 2009/2010 Centaur are the nicest 10-speed equipment made (well, Di2 aside) in my opinion, but they really dumbed them down for a cheap price in 2011. If I had a bit mroe cash, I'd grab an extra 2010 carbon groupset, but this was about bar tape wasn't it...

 

[ostivafan]

Mr

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[ray j willings]

I use very thin and light weight cloth tape. I wrap the bars as usual and just stick down with a cloth/cotton type tape with sticky backing to hold in place.
You do not get any residue on your bars. Its very cheap as well and if you opt for black then a roll of tape will last for years as you can throw your dirty tape in the washing machine and re-use.
If you want to use normal bar tape then wrap some non adhesive underneath for non residue bars

 

[Master50]

The Park Tools web site suggests you wrap the bars counter-clockwise on the right and clockwise on the left the exact opposite to that suggested in the article above.

I have always wound my bar tape from the drops. clock wise on the right and counterclockwise on the left. the bar tape never slips if it has a proper adhesive strip. I like FIZIK tape that has a sort of leather look. It is about the easiest to keep clean I have found. Cork tapes are generally very comfortable but they are harder to keep clean.

 

[winkybiker]

http://handlebra.com/index.htm

Here is some new leather tape that will set the standard in quality for leather tape. He is a few weeks away from having the web commerce enabled for purchasing. Everyone that has tried has been blown away by the product. I saw the tape at the NAHBS and he is not exaggerating when he states that the seams will disappear.

I am not wild about the name but the slogan says it all. "Wait til you get your hands on this" says it all. I have never used leather tape and have been content with Fizik. The next time I need tape this is what I am trying.

He gives very detailed instructions which includes a recommendation to use a base of athletic tape or hockey tape to prevent any slippage during a rainstorm. I felt some treated with Obenauf paste and other tape treated with Obenauf oil and could not decide which I liked the best.

This really a labor of love for the man that developed this. He put a lot of effort over a period of time to bring this product to market. I hope he is a success.

But why would you use this picture of an apalling wrap job on a website selling handlebar tape?