The two most important frame dimensions are stack height, the height of the top of the head tube relative to the bottom bracket (y-coordinate), and reach, the horizontal span between the bottom bracket and that point (x-coordinate).
Lacking that info, most riders can work with horizontal top tube length and head tube length, given that seat tube angles usually vary a degree or less, and bottom bracket drop a millimeter or two or three, for the range of sizes that might work for you.
My personal sizing triage goes like this. First, can you straddle the bike comfortably? Second, without sliding the saddle all the way forward, can you reach the brake hoods comfortably? Finally, manipulating stem and spacers, can you position the handlebar at a height that works for you?
Nominal size is a fleeting thing with bikes. In the days of horizontal top tubes, you had to ask whether it was center-to-top (of seat lug) or center-to-center. On bikes of standard steel tubes, the c-t number was about 1.5 cm larger than c-c.
Nowadays, with short "compact" seat tubes and extended "endurance" head tubes, the source of the numbers could be anyone's guess.