• The Cycling News forum is looking to add some volunteer moderators with Red Rick's recent retirement. If you're interested in helping keep our discussions on track, send a direct message to @SHaines here on the forum, or use the Contact Us form to message the Community Team.

    In the meanwhile, please use the Report option if you see a post that doesn't fit within the forum rules.

    Thanks!

looking for a low stack height saddle

Mar 22, 2009
5
0
8,510
Visit site
I broke my Serfas Stingerrace RS saddle last week... Ordinarily this would not be a problem except that my alloy seatpost is seized into my carbon frame. So I need to either get the seatpost out, find the same Serfas saddle somewhere or buy a different saddle that has the same dimensions.

The old saddle had a height of about 42mm - which is quite low. This was measured setting the saddle rails on a flat surface and kind of eye-balling the height of the saddle about mid-rail.

It seems like NONE of the saddle makers list their stack heights. I'd like to not have to buy loads of saddles and measure them myself. Any suggestions?

Serfas Stingerrace RS 42mm
Selle italia Nekkar plus 58mm
Ritchey Streem 48mm
 
Perhaps use a hairdryer to warm the seat tube.
That might loosen the 'carbon paste' or dried-out grease that is preventing removal of the seatpost .
Just getting it warm to the touch (not HOT) should be sufficient.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 
Aug 4, 2011
3,647
0
0
Visit site
dhbemis said:
I broke my Serfas Stingerrace RS saddle last week... Ordinarily this would not be a problem except that my alloy seatpost is seized into my carbon frame. So I need to either get the seatpost out, find the same Serfas saddle somewhere or buy a different saddle that has the same dimensions.

The old saddle had a height of about 42mm - which is quite low. This was measured setting the saddle rails on a flat surface and kind of eye-balling the height of the saddle about mid-rail.

It seems like NONE of the saddle makers list their stack heights. I'd like to not have to buy loads of saddles and measure them myself. Any suggestions?

Serfas Stingerrace RS 42mm
Selle italia Nekkar plus 58mm
Ritchey Streem 48mm

You need to get the seat post out. Galvanic corrosion.
Moisture in your frame it can spread. Check your BB and brake axels. Your looking for white powdery mold.
You can get your frame cleaned out and treated. It happened to one of my carbon frames. Its fine now although I am replacing the bb shell for a ti one.


If you have no luck with the heat method
You could cut the post as low as possible and try drilling it out with a dremel using a shaping bit. Just take small chunks out. Sort of disntergrate it.
 
Jul 4, 2009
9,666
0
0
Visit site
dhbemis said:
I broke my Serfas Stingerrace RS saddle last week... Ordinarily this would not be a problem except that my alloy seatpost is seized into my carbon frame. So I need to either get the seatpost out, find the same Serfas saddle somewhere or buy a different saddle that has the same dimensions.

The old saddle had a height of about 42mm - which is quite low. This was measured setting the saddle rails on a flat surface and kind of eye-balling the height of the saddle about mid-rail.

It seems like NONE of the saddle makers list their stack heights. I'd like to not have to buy loads of saddles and measure them myself. Any suggestions?

Serfas Stingerrace RS 42mm
Selle italia Nekkar plus 58mm
Ritchey Streem 48mm

....the Selle Italia SLR range is all below 46mm....some with less padding will be close to 42mm...and very comfortable saddles btw ( well at least for my butt )...good luck with the post...

Cheers
 
or just buy the same saddle again

removing a seized seat post:-Seat posts can at times bond very effectively inside of a frame. This is especially true of an aluminum post and a steel frame. The bond is a result of an exchange of ions between the two materials. You can help prevent this bonding by keeping the post greased where it enters the frame. The various anti-seize materials are also effective and tend to be more resistant to water and corrosion.

When inserting an aluminum post into a carbon frame, it is important to apply a barrier between the two surfaces. This is also true when installing a carbon post into a steel or aluminum frame. A “galvanic reaction” occurs between the two different materials and this acts to eventually bond the post to the frame. Use a light coating of grease, anti-seize, or other lubricant to create a barrier between the two surfaces. It is also a good idea to occasionally necessary to remove the post, clean the surfaces, and the reapply lubrication.

It is sometimes possible to remove the stuck post. However, be aware that there will be cases where the post is simply bonded permanently to the frame.

Begin by removing the post binder bolt entirely from the frame. Mark the post where it meets the frame. This will help track progress as it comes up. Some posts may simply twist side to side, but not come upward.

The bond material is typically of an alkaline base. It can help to use a mild acid to weaken the bond, such as lemon juice or a cola such as Coke® or Pepsi®. Allow some time for the acid to work.

In any case, a penetrating oil or light lubricant is better then nothing. Attempt to twist the saddle back and forth after allowing the fluid to penetrate. If the saddle twists, pull upward and note if any upward progress is being made. The post may eventually heat up from the work, so allow it to occasionally cool off.

If it is impossible to twist the saddle by hand, more leverage may be required. Remove the saddle from the bike. Remove the wheels from the bike. Mount the bike upside down with the post clamped in the hard jaws of the vise. This will allow the frame to be used as a lever. It may be useful to have someone pull upward while you twist the frame side to side. If the post is very tight still, use care not use the rear dropout for leverage as this may bend the rear triangle.

If the post is still stuck, it may be possible to cut the post off and then cut it out of the bike. Cut the post close to the frame. The original post may be cut out completely with a “jab saw.” This is a hacksaw handle that allow cutting inside a blind hole. Cut the post in four places. Use care not to cut into the frame. After cutting, hit the post to collapse it. Remove the pieces. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove a carbon post by cutting it out.

It may be necessary to hone or finish the inside of a steel frame after removing a stuck post. There may be corrosion still inside the frame. It is not recommended to hone or sand carbon frames, however.

If it is a thin-walled post, it is may be possible to mount another post inside the stuck post. The first post becomes a “shim.” You will need to create a compression slot in the back of the post to allow the binder to hold the new and smaller post.


^^lifted from the Park Tool website.
 
Aug 4, 2011
3,647
0
0
Visit site
"Mount the bike upside down with the post clamped in the hard jaws of the vise. This will allow the frame to be used as a lever. It may be useful to have someone pull upward while you twist the frame side to side"

Please be careful if you try this with a carbon frame. You could easily crack or snap you frame.
 
Jul 4, 2009
9,666
0
0
Visit site
....oh when using penetrating oil/lemon oil or whatever you decide to use, apply it to the bottom of the post as well ( assuming you can access it....as in thru the bottom bracket lug and down the seat tube...with the bike upside down of course...)....

Cheers