Question about brake calipers sticking

[egtalbot]

hi all. I have a pair of Shimano 105 9 speed brake calipers with about 3000-4000 miles on them. Today I replaced the brake pads with ones designed for carbon wheels since I will be using those in some races. I had to do a very minor cable adjustment to account for less wear on the pads, but otherwise was about as straightforward as you can imagine.

The thing is, now the rear caliper doesn't "snap back" all the way, which often leaves one side rubbing the rear wheel a bit. The problem is not the new pads grabbing, they don't just stay stuck on the wheel. The caliper itself is not returning all the way to an open position. I cannot see anything obvious wrong with any of the parts of the caliper. The spring looks intact and in position. If I loosen the brake cable, then without that pressure against it, it snaps back no problem when I squeeze the calipers by hand.

So, I am trying to figure out what to try next. My first thought is to try putting the old pads back on, even though I can't see how that will make a difference. It's the only thing I changed, though.

If that doesn't work, I am thinking replacing the cable is the next thing to try. It's a pretty new cable, but possibly something it is part of the problem.

any other thoughts on what to try?

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[AllOut]

Sometimes the cable housing entering the top of the caliper will slip out and interfere with the brake release. Just a thought.

 

[the truth.]

hello eg


3 things
first simple is the break centered? make sure by losening the 5 mm allen key at the back that the pads are the same distant to the seat stays,

2 as above the cABle is rusted up and the spring tension isnt enough to pull the cable back- replace cable

3rd if it is old 105 the pivot will have an allen key at front and 10mm nut at back (new just allen at rear). grit can get in and prevent full motion. losen (not dismantle)- spray oil to clean , grease and tighten with some lock tight dripped onto bolt .

 

[egtalbot]

hello eg


3 things
first simple is the break centered? make sure by losening the 5 mm allen key at the back that the pads are the same distant to the seat stays,

2 as above the cABle is rusted up and the spring tension isnt enough to pull the cable back- replace cable

3rd if it is old 105 the pivot will have an allen key at front and 10mm nut at back (new just allen at rear). grit can get in and prevent full motion. losen (not dismantle)- spray oil to clean , grease and tighten with some lock tight dripped onto bolt .

appreciate the response. Yes, the brake is centered. I tried loosening and tightening a couple different times. The cable is definitely not rusted, I last replaced it this summer, maybe 1000 miles ago. But it's possible it's cable-related anyway. To respond to Allout, I confirmed the cable is not slipping where it enters the caliper (at the barrel adjuster).

This has the allen at front and nut at the rear, and you know, it DOES sound like there might be a little grit in there. I get the same lack of full snapback if I squeeze the caliper by hand, and I can definitely hear a little bit of grit in there if I put my ear close, more so than when I do the same thing with the front brake.

So I will loosen the pivot - what kind of "spray oil" are you talking about, I haven't really used spray products on my bike before. For the grease, will just a standard Phil Wood grease like I used for pedals, bb, etc work?

Again, thanks for the response!