Stage 6: Ciudad de Panamá - Ciudad de Panamá (Rod Carew International Stadium), 155km
GPM:
Cerro Peñón - Las Lajas (cat.3) 1,5km @ 8,6%
Santa Librada (cat.3) 1,3km @ 7,5%
So we arrive in the capital and by far the largest city in Panama, its eponymous city, for stage 6 which is a slightly hilly out-and-back type stage which was born out of a sort of one-day race idea from a while ago. It isn’t far from Capira to Panama City, but it does entail skipping the potential use of, say, La Chorrera as a stage host. Nevertheless I think this is the way that the race could go, Panama City being obviously the capital and largest city and where the majority of Panamanian sport is centred makes it the obvious place to bring the race to its conclusion, so we’re on our way there now.
Founded by the conquistador Pedro Arias Dávila in 1519, around 17 years after the Panamanian isthmus was first discovered by the Spanish, Panama City is the capital and by far the largest city in the small Central American nation, with 1,5m urban populace and almost 2m - accounting for almost half the total population of the country - in its extended metropolitan area. It was initially an important point for the Spanish conquistadores in that it was their primary access to the Pacific coast of South America, given the narrowness of the Central American isthmus at this point, and it was from here that they launched their expeditions into eastern Colombia, modern Ecuador and Peru, and that they transported their many winnings in terms of precious metals from those provinces back to Europe. It dwindled in importance because of the success of Spanish conquest in Peru, becoming little more than a transit point, but retained importance because of the volume of freight coming through it. However, this also made it a target, and the British corsair Henry Morgan, who had been granted licence to attack and seize Spanish vessels, seized Portobelo (on the northern coast of the isthmus) and, after gathering forces from successful raids in Venezuela, attacked Ciudad de Panamá by traversing the isthmus with a band of 1400 men, and razing the city to the ground.
After Spain and Britain signed a peace treaty the following year, Morgan was summoned back to London and the city was rebuilt a few kilometres to the west of the original site; the rapid growth of the 19th and 20th Centuries have seen the site of the old city - now known as Panama Viejo - consumed by the sprawl of modern Ciudad de Panamá, however the ruins of the old city have been preserved and, since 1997, have been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The importance of Panama City was increased by the development of the Transcontinental Railroad in 1855, which linked the Caribbean to the Pacific via high speed travel rather than horse-drawn stage wagons. This was a large part of why the province of Panamá was subsumed within Gran Colombia, but after its secession following the Thousand Days’ War, it became the centre of a new, US-backed, trade route-dependent independent state, i.e. modern Panama. Part of the arrangement included the French engineer Philippe Bunau-Varilla, who had been declared envoy extraordinaire, signing over a ten-mile-wide strip of land between the two oceans for the construction of what is now the country’s most famous landmark, the Panama Canal, in exchange for American guarantees of the security and independence of the nation. Dams were closed in 1913, creating the Gatun Lake - at the time the largest artificial lake in the world - and two narrower canal strips, and the following year the Panama Canal opened fore business. At the time it was considered a huge foreign policy triumph, although later on US control of the canal has become an irritant and a stumbling block in relations internationally for both countries on a number of occasions, most notably in 1964 when Panamanians rose against the number of US military outposts denying them access to areas along the frontiers of their own capital city and dominating them financially, resulting in the US Army suppressing the uprising with the killing of 22 Panamanian protestors. This event became known as Dia de los Mártires (“Day of the Martyrs”) and was a key influence behind the 1977 decision to transfer ownership of the canal to Panama.
The opening of the canal became a major factor in the development of the city, which expanded exponentially with growth to cover the increased amount of traffic coming through the small Central American nation, as well as the increased technology improving health and social care in the city. This prosperity led to the country becoming a financial centre in the later Cold War era, although this came at the cost of massive corruption and the nation became known as a haven for money laundering, at least until the US-backed deposition of dictator Manuel Noriega in 1989 (one of the few US interventions in Central America at the time that includes anything defensible, if we’re honest). While the reputation has not exactly been helped by the recent Panama Papers leaks, revealing many western leaders and higher-ups primarily on the conservative side of the political spectrum hiding assets, filtering money through shell companies and taking donations from suspicious sources, there has nevertheless been a major effort to clean up Panama’s reputation on that front since the deposition of Noriega.
Casco Viejo, Panamá
https://dvzpv6x5302g1.cloudfront.net/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/137/Trelleborg_launches_SafePilot_P3_for_Panama_Canal_transits.png
Panama Canal[/i]
Starting in the old town (Casco Viejo, the old quarter of the new city, as opposed to Panamá Viejo), this stage is essentially a double-scaling of the isthmus, as we cross from the Pacific to the Caribbean coastal city of Colón, located near the site of the old port of Portobelo which as mentioned above was sacked by corsairs prior to the raid on Panama City. The distance is around 80km, but subtracting a few for the neutral zone it ends up being around 75km on the road, most of which is rolling, with a few ramps and repechos but nothing worthy of giving mountains points for. Colón is traditionally seen as Panama’s second city and was on Manzanillo Island before expanding on to the mainland, absorbing some of the US bases along the Canal. It was founded with the help of the USA in order to provide an Atlantic terminal of the then Panama Railroad. It was known to Anglophones as Aspinwall, after the railroad’s founder, but to Hispanophones as Colón in honour of Columbus, as he had ‘discovered’ the northern coast of Panama. It was burnt to the ground in 1885 as part of the Colombian Civil War, the arm thereof known as the Panama Crisis. Technically speaking it was temporarily an exclave during the early days of the Panama Canal, being surrounded by a ring of US forts and military zones other than along the sides of the canal; this remained the case until 1936 when the Americans ceded a strip of land to enable the Panamanians to construct a highway connection - the one that we are using to enter and exit the city, in fact.
[img]https://megaconstrucciones.net/images/urbanismo/foto34/colon-4.jpg
During the Cold War, Colón was a free trade zone, which encouraged a melting pot of ethnicities and groups within the city in the usual fashion that such trade areas create, and to this day it is the city with the largest Afro-Caribbean population in the country with many established and revered families of black Caribbean origin settling here; the US occasionally implemented checkpoints to control access, which often upset Panamanians as they were being controlled and restricted in access to parts of their own country. This resulted in rioting that ransacked the city’s municipal hall, and then as relations with the US became frostier under the dictatorships of Torrijos and Noriega, the city fell into a decline which has only recently been reversed, with a huge amount of investment undertaken since 2014 to redevelop and modernise the city’s amenities.
Many of Panama’s best known or best heralded athletes have originated in Colón; these are predominantly baseballers and soccer players as you may expect as well as boxers (this is of course a very popular sport among the Caribbean Latin nations, with Cuba, Mexico and Puerto Rico all having very proud histories in boxing), but there is an interesting curio in the form of
George Headley, the son of two Caribbean workers who had arrived in Panama to assist the canal construction product, whose family moved to Jamaica when he was 10 years old; known as ‘the black Bradman’ in reference to the legendary Australian batsman of the time, Headley became an elite cricketer, and the talisman of the West Indies team of the era (for those that don’t know, the Caribbean islands - along with mainland former British possessions such as Belize and especially Guyana - contribute a combined team to world cricket; it is very much the case that in the Caribbean, baseball is
the sport in Spanish-speaking lands, but in the former English, French and Dutch colonies cricket predominates, however small population sizes preclude these nations from individually competing with the likes of South Africa and India, so they combine into a regional super-team); he remains to this day the only Panamanian to play test (the highest level of international, the multi-day format) cricket. At the time he played, many of the islands were still under colonial rule and white English expatriates dominated the team, but Headley became the first Afro-Caribbean to captain the side when he led them out in 1948. He spent much of his later career as a professional in English ‘county cricket’ (the highest national league) and his son Ron was born in England; he would go on to represent Jamaica and the West Indies, but Ron’s son Dean played test cricket for England, making them the first three-generation cricketing family at that level. Many Panamanians are somewhat divorced from Headley’s successes, however; cricket is very much a minority sport restricted to a few towns with large West Indian populations, and as most of his life was spent in Jamaica he is seen more as a Jamaican who was born overseas than as a Panamanian. More widely revered at home would be
Irving Saladino, a long jumper who won the Pan-American and World titles in 2007, before he became the first ever Panamanian Olympic gold medallist when he won the event at the 2008 Beijing Olympics - and the first man from any Central American nation (other than Mexico for those that use that definition) to take such an accolade. It was Panama’s first medal of any colour at the Olympics in 60 years, and the parades and fêtes upon his return home were massive; Rubén Blades gave a personalised performance, and legendary Panamanian boxer Roberto Durán was called upon to give a presentation where they would re-enact the medal ceremony.
Because the main thoroughfare in Colón is a dual carriageway, we can have an intermediate sprint and then pull a 180º when we reach the Atlantic coast, before retracing our steps; it’s literally 28km before riders would run the risk of riding into the bunch facing the other way so we should be fine in this respect. On the return journey there is 1,9km @ 4,2% into Nueva Italia but I don’t think that merits a cat.3 status at this point in the race - maybe in stage 1 if there had been no other climbs. For essentially 60km after Colón we retrace our steps from the earlier part of the stage, so there’s not so much to say about this; the interesting part comes in the last 20km after we reach the outlying suburb of Alcalde Díaz. The last 20km are where the intrigue in the stage lies, as we shake it up a bit and take a couple of punchy ascents to break things up.
View down to Panama City from Cerro El Peñón
Cerro El Peñón is the highest point in Panama Norte province, a little over 400m above sea level. While the road to the summit is not paved and the last part is accessible on foot alone, there are a couple of roads from the Las Lajas barrio that will enable us to get a decent percentage of the way up. We’re actually climbing the easier side, on Calle Doctor Esteban y Serna, but a kilometre and a half at 8,6% is more than enough to tempt some moves you’d say, given we’re just 15km from home. The descent on Calle Hermanos Grimm (yes, quite) is pretty steep - 1300m at 10,3% - but also mostly very straight. We then briefly head onto wider roads again before departing for the hills again with our final climb to the small hilltop barrio of Santa Librada Rural, between Valle de San Francisco and Santa Librada proper, being 1,3km at 7,5% topping out 7km from home. This time the descent is shallower and on a wider road - but is much more technical, with a number of hairpins and twists and turns.
The finish comes after a sequence of sweeping, wide open bends on a flat road before the last 600m are slightly uphill (at 2,5%) to hopefully ensure a safe sprint of however many riders remain. We are not finishing in the city but instead in its outskirts, at the national baseball stadium, known as Estadio Nacional de Panamá, or the Rod Carew National Stadium, after another Colón native and Panama’s best known sporting hero, the former Minnesota Twins and California Angels first/second baseman and designated hitter who is a member of both teams’ respective halls of fame along with the Caribbean, Hispanic Heritage and National (i.e. international, as this is the US one) Baseball Halls of Fame, the latter as a first-ballot Hall of Famer, an even more prestigious club of those nominated in their first year of eligibility, i.e. meaning there is almost unanimous agreement of their worthiness. He is also a recipient of the Roberto Clemente Award in recognition of his charitable and community work. Born on a racially-segregated train in the Panama Canal Zone, therefore technically speaking on US territory, he was named after the doctor who happened to also be travelling on the train and helped deliver the baby when his mother fell into labour unexpectedly. He emigrated to the US at age 14 but segregation was still a thing there at the time; obviously through his career the colour barriers around society started to break down but his move from the Twins to the Angels was largely precipitated by racist comments made by the Twins’ team owner. Retiring after nearly 20 years of active career - that in and of itself interrupted before it began by six years of military service - he later returned to the Angels as a coach for several years in the 90s, and both teams who he played for have retired his number 29.
A few years into Carew’s retirement, the Panamanian authorities wanted to replace the now-outmoded Estadio Juan Demóstenes Arosemena, which had served as the national stadium for baseball since 1938’s Central American and Caribbean Games, but had long since been turned into almost exclusively a baseball venue and its seating capacity reduced from 25.000 on all sides to just 7.000, which was proving insufficient for demand given the growth of the city; the Estadio Rommel Fernández, which was built for the 1970 Central American and Caribbean Games, serves as the national stadium for soccer, athletics and other field sports, did not have the configuration to accommodate baseball satisfactorily. Land on the outskirts of the urban sprawl was chosen and construction began; in 1999, the Estadio Nacional Rod Carew was opened. It is officially speaking a multi-purpose stadium, but is used primarily for baseball, with the configuration of the stadium and that it is named after a baseball player giving away that priority. It is used to host many matches in the domestic league as well as all matches played by the national team, as well as hosting events such as the 2019 Caribbean Series, when the Panamanian champions re-entered the competition, and spring training games for MLB teams. It has also been used for a number of concerts, largely for international overseas stars when making rare appearances in the country, although local music hero Rubén Blades has also appeared.
This one is likely to see a sprint, but simultaneously it should be pretty reduced; the punchy climbs should get rid of many, and the fact many will have lost beaucoup time in the last few days might mean the breakaway gets to duke this one out. We shall see.