Rain Bike

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Apr 20, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Not really, the same rules apply to this section of the forum too, don't go off topic. What do your 2 posts here have anything remotely to do with the thread? (rehtorical) If you wanna look at pictures of cars do a Google image search and post to your hearts content in the cafe, not here. 1st and last warning.
taking the liberty to answer your rhetorical question: i was pointing out that i NEVER ride in the rain and snow, which IMO is on the topic, with what i do ride in those conditions. but as per your wishes, i removed the posts. (this was written before i read your PM. sorry)
 
Apr 20, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
... Not many people running two speed with a front der., most modern 2 speeds are going with a dingle fixed ...
i would like to set up my fixie with an extra gear. your set up is cool, but what is a dingle?
 
Mar 19, 2009
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gregod said:
i would like to set up my fixie with an extra gear. your set up is cool, but what is a dingle?
This


or this...



If you want extra gears fixed you should go with a Sturmey 3 speed.

 
Apr 20, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
how do you change gears?

the sturmey is way cool, but i cannot seem to find a place that will sell and/or ship one to where i live.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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gregod said:
how do you change gears?

the sturmey is way cool, but i cannot seem to find a place that will sell and/or ship one to where i live.
Don't even mess with a dingle, they're useless. You either need a rear der. with the limit screws set for a range of two gears, or with the fixed version you'd need to undo your rear wheel and change it that way. Lot of work for not much of a range, that's why I did the two up front, waaay better range, much less hassle.

You can get the Strumey from any decent bike shop in the world. Most places can just special order one, easy. The world is getting smaller, you can get stuff shipped to every corner of the globe now. If you get mail at your house you can get a Sturmey.
 
Mar 13, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
I set this bike up almost exactly a decade ago when I was working at QBP, a second generation Cross Check, first ones were blue. The Parts and gearing have changed over the years, but It's been a 2 speed through it's existence. Not many people running two speed with a front der., most modern 2 speeds are going with a dingle fixed or freewheel, which didn't make sense to me ever as I wanted something for hills and flats, dingles just don't cut it in that regard for gear ratios.

Probably because this setup gives you an imperfect chainline. Not an issue for most, but there'll be more finicky riders who wouldnt ride anything more than 2mm out. I gather your rear cog is spaced in between the two chainrings?

As for having 2 gears, why not do it the old fashioned way with a 2 sided hub. Fidgety but you get the same effect.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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unsheath said:
Probably because this setup gives you an imperfect chainline. Not an issue for most, but there'll be more finicky riders who wouldnt ride anything more than 2mm out. I gather your rear cog is spaced in between the two chainrings?

As for having 2 gears, why not do it the old fashioned way with a 2 sided hub. Fidgety but you get the same effect.
No, not the same effect at all. Stop to flip a wheel over to change gears in the back with a fraction of the gear ratio I've got now with the flip of a barcon, no thanks, more work than a dingle. Imperfect chainline if I'm running a 1/8" SS drivetrain, which I'm not. It's 3/32", and as you said spaced between chainrings. How many mm are you offset when you're in a 53t/18t on a fully geared bike?... More than 2mm. ;)
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Guys, I don't need suggestions on how to change my bike, It's been the same set up for this long, BECAUSE I LIKE IT THE WAY IT IS!!! :rolleyes:
 
May 4, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Guys, I don't need suggestions on how to change my bike, It's been the same set up for this long, BECAUSE I LIKE IT THE WAY IT IS!!! :rolleyes:
RDV, I really do think we know what's better for you. You really need that SA 2-spd. Hey, it comes in turquoise. ;)
 
Mar 19, 2009
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marathon marke said:
RDV, I really do think we know what's better for you. You really need that SA 2-spd. Hey, it comes in turquoise. ;)
Ha! Right..:D Hey, if anyone was at the last Interbike and happen to stumble into the Twin Six booth, there was a Handsome Speedy Devil there built with a Sturmey 2speed kickback, those wheels were built by yours truly. In fact all the Handsome bikes scattered throughout the show had my wheels on 'em.

To clear up this changing gears in the back compared to my set up, it's really all about the gear ratios. Forget about doing any serious climbing with SA's or flip flops, the gearing just isn't there, that's why I shift in the front... ;)
 
Mar 18, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
that's shift lever (singular, not plural). Front der. only. rear tensioner is a PAUL Melvin. 50/34t up front, 18t in the back. ;)
You've inspired me here...

Thinking to run my SS MTB as DS this season now :D

My biggest gripe last season, was getting gapped so badly on flat and slight down sloping sections where I would spin out super quick and "the competition" would just change gears!

One question...I have a crappy no-name chain tensioner but it only runs one cog...not the two-cog setup like the Melvin.

Is the Melvin a "must" to do this or could I run this single cog tensioner?

Tech bits: 26/39 up front, 2 speed der, a 3/32 chain. 16t and/or 18t in the back...
 
May 4, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
To clear up this changing gears in the back compared to my set up, it's really all about the gear ratios. Forget about doing any serious climbing with SA's or flip flops, the gearing just isn't there, that's why I shift in the front... ;)
That's what I figured. I might have to consider that when I redo my winter assault vehicle this year.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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flyor64 said:
You've inspired me here...

Thinking to run my SS MTB as DS this season now :D

My biggest gripe last season, was getting gapped so badly on flat and slight down sloping sections where I would spin out super quick and "the competition" would just change gears!

One question...I have a crappy no-name chain tensioner but it only runs one cog...not the two-cog setup like the Melvin.

Is the Melvin a "must" to do this or could I run this single cog tensioner?

Tech bits: 26/39 up front, 2 speed der, a 3/32 chain. 16t and/or 18t in the back...
No, a single pully tensioner won't work because it doesn't pick up the chain slack for shifting in the front. Single pully tensioners we're only designed to retrofit bikes with vertical rear dropouts to SS. You could use an old derailleur and set the limit screws to make it 2 in the back, for single I'd use a Melvin though. The beauty of the Melvin is that it's so svelte, you can adjust chain line, pully cage spring tension, and it's purpose built. It can handle up to a 20t difference up front, triple if you want! You could also benefit from another cool little part that Paul does are their Thumbies. For the front shifter mount a barcon on a Thumbie and you've got old school MTB shifting. Paul stuff is a little more money, but worth it. I'd rather give my money to small indies that are designing and innovating stuff for people like us, rather than huge corps that just copy them. You could save a little by substituting the Melvin for a Shimano Alfine tensioner, but why bother, it's just a cheap imitation of the Melvin. The Shimano version doesn't have the tooth capacity, the range of chainline adj, or an adj spring tension for the cage.
 
Jul 17, 2009
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RD your bike is sick bro.

I dig the front derailleur set up.

How long did it take to work out chain length?
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Boeing said:
RD your bike is sick bro.

I dig the front derailleur set up.

How long did it take to work out chain length?
Thanks! Chain length is easy peasy. Put it in the small ring up front and pull the chain until the cage is almost vertical, that's chain length. I actually run two different groups of rings, what you see in the pic is 50/34 which I use for more road riding. So if I'm doing more off-road I switch the big ring to either a 48 or 46, sometimes the small ring to a 36. I have different chains for every set up waiting in the wings.
 
Mar 18, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
No, a single pully tensioner won't work because it doesn't pick up the chain slack for shifting in the front. Single pully tensioners we're only designed to retrofit bikes with vertical rear dropouts to SS. You could use an old derailleur and set the limit screws to make it 2 in the back, for single I'd use a Melvin though. The beauty of the Melvin is that it's so svelte, you can adjust chain line, pully cage spring tension, and it's purpose built. It can handle up to a 20t difference up front, triple if you want! You could also benefit from another cool little part that Paul does are their Thumbies. For the front shifter mount a barcon on a Thumbie and you've got old school MTB shifting. Paul stuff is a little more money, but worth it. I'd rather give my money to small indies that are designing and innovating stuff for people like us, rather than huge corps that just copy them. You could save a little by substituting the Melvin for a Shimano Alfine tensioner, but why bother, it's just a cheap imitation of the Melvin. The Shimano version doesn't have the tooth capacity, the range of chainline adj, or an adj spring tension for the cage.
Thanks for the tips.

Unfortunately I can only order a Paul direct from the states, so with shipping and customs on this end that 80 bucks just turned into 125...

I can get an Alfine for 30 bucks from a Swedish site so I may just try it out, see if I like it, and if so, then invest in the Paul...
 
Nov 30, 2010
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RedheadDane said:
You guys have special rain bikes. Why? You get just as wet either way! :p
I don't know about anyone else but for me...

I have an old bike for use when conditions are poor in winter because the rain tends to wash mud and grime onto the roads where it mingles with grit and detritus and especially salt. The effect of riding through it, is to spray this gunk at force into the drivetrain and brakes.

Rather than have to be cleaning the decent bike all the time, it's easier to hang it up and use one which has cheaper components which can be treated more like consumables.
 
Mar 18, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
...You could save a little by substituting the Melvin for a Shimano Alfine tensioner, but why bother, it's just a cheap imitation of the Melvin. The Shimano version doesn't have the tooth capacity, the range of chainline adj, or an adj spring tension for the cage.
Digging up an old thread to ask a question.

I can get an Alfine tensioner cheap here and want to try it out with a 22t in the rear. Everything I've read officially about the tensioner says 20t is the max in the rear (but you can even get a 22t shimano cog for the alfine hub so it adds confusion).

So my question, is that just a "safe number" with variance/fudge built in and I may actually be able to run a 22t or is it real and I shouldn't even bother over a 20t???




BTW I'll buy a Melvin this summer while I'm stateside, if this little experiment works out...
 
Mar 19, 2009
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flyor64 said:
Digging up an old thread to ask a question.

I can get an Alfine tensioner cheap here and want to try it out with a 22t in the rear. Everything I've read officially about the tensioner says 20t is the max in the rear (but you can even get a 22t shimano cog for the alfine hub so it adds confusion).

So my question, is that just a "safe number" with variance/fudge built in and I may actually be able to run a 22t or is it real and I shouldn't even bother over a 20t???




BTW I'll buy a Melvin this summer while I'm stateside, if this little experiment works out...

Nice! Here's the determining factor for your fitting a large rear cog in the back. If you have horizontal dropouts you have some leeway by being able to pull the wheel back and the cog away from the top pulley. Vertical drops you're playing with fire and risk meshing the cog and pulley. Best gearing for these 2 speed set ups is 18t in the back and 50/34, 48/38, or 46/36 up front, have used them all. Currently running 50/34 and 18 in the back, great top end for flats and rollers, perfect climbing ratio which I've covered some decent mountain passes with. Replacement chainrings and cogs/freewheels are cheap enough, look into downsizing your drivetrain a little bit and experimenting with different ratios to find what works best for the application you're using it for.
 

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