Roval CLX32 noise ?

Apr 22, 2017
A "creak" sound has started coming from ( I think) my rear wheel , a set I bought used last Spring. It's not constant, mainly under load & not in sync w/pedal stroke. More so under load climbing or 18-20 mph cruising.
I've heard of spoke-rub on the drive side as one possibility and hub wear as another. LBS not up for diagnosing, any feedback appreciated.
Apr 22, 2017
Couldn't detect any play but found an account on another forum of CLX 40's crossed-spokes ( ie drive side) rubbing one another due to poor spoke tension . Having truing & tension addressed, we'll see.
Meanwhile I've put my Hed Ardennes back on and all's quiet so I'm sure the "creaking" is coming from the rear wheel.

Thanks for the input
That's not a bad set of back up wheels!

If it doesn't solve it my next port of call would be getting the bearings out, taking the covers off and having a look. Might need re-greasing, if there's no play I doubt they need replacing.
Apr 22, 2017
With the wheel trued + tensioned, bearing checked, BB & headset bearings all OK I guess I have a "phantom noise"
I've swapped out wheels & pedals, re-set seatpost w/friction paste and put on new cleats. Checked saddle mount and the bottle cage screw/boss mounts. Quiet & smooth for the first 20 mi. then "creak" began to return - not constant , a few revolutions at a time. Shifting up or down interrupts noise but then it returns. Mostly quiet but from time-to- time it sneaks back.
Next step will be deraileurs… ugh

My favorite century is in 3 wks, hate to think of a day with it :mad:
Suggestions ??
Ceramic is apparently great as long as you make sure they're well maintained.

So the creaking has been isolated to the wheels which is good. If shifting interrupts it my next guess is the freehub. Any play there? If the Ardennes were fine then I think it's unlikely to be the derailleurs.
Apr 22, 2017
So the Roval CLX's are in fine shape ( tuned, trued, bearings lubed & star ratchet inspected ) & not the source of the noise as, after re-mounting the Ardennes and riding a few hours, the intermittent (sp?) noise returned.
Replaced RD5800 ( had been damaged & side plates straightened x2) with new medium cage RD8000

Yesterday, back with the Roval's, the noise returned after 15 miles, but stopped after a few rev's. Maybe squaked again 1-2 times on the remaining 30 miles. Never could discern what changed to cause/clear the noise )
So weird.
Next stop chain ring bolts.

Thanks for reading, offering advice.
Jan 11, 2013
Not sure if this is the same, but sounds like it might be. This video is the noise at it's worst, but all characteristics match the description above. I've isolated it top my Roval CLX50s ('19 S-Works Venge, all DA including cassette)...when I swap in my 64s, the sound is not present - everything else has been swapped/rebuilt to help isolate.
Carbon frames make chasing sounds tough.

Skewers? I had a 'creaking' noise that I searched for for at least 20 rides that ended up being the front skewer. Different skewer...quiet.

Headset cups? We all check the bearing, but did you check the cups? I had a 'groaning-popping' sound that was the bottom bearing cup in the frame. There was some epoxy slag in the cup and no lube of any kind (30 day old bike!). A little wet sanding to smooth out the epoxy, and a little carbon paste...quiet.

Stem bolts? Dry stem bolts (bars and fork tube) can make random noises. Lube...quiet.

Sweaty bars? The interface between the bars and stem can get sweat in it and make noise. Clean...quiet.

Rear Der? The screw that holds the rear der cage onto the der body can get dry and dirty and make all sorts of noises. Its worse with clutch type derailers and obviously on bikes that are ridden in the dirt a lot. EDIT: I see that you replaced the RD.

Seat post collar/seat tube interface? I had a 'creaking' noise that I was able to pinpoint to the seat post, but even cleaning and lubing didn't make it go away. The third time that I was playing with it I knocked the collar off by mistake and there was a 'roll' of clear coat at the top of the seat tube. I cut it off with a xacto and smoothed it with 250 grit...quiet.

Dropout inserts? Bikes with through axles use various inserts in the dropouts, be sure that these are tight.

Saddle under the saddle? The top of most seat posts has a saddle (half circle) shape that the clamp sits in. Clean and lube this...quiet.

You already hit pedals and cleats...
Add one:

If you have a splined BB spindle, pop the crank arm off, clean, lube...quiet. I've had a small 'crack' going on for a week. Today I decided that it was the pedal spindle, but after cleaning and lubing those threads, it was still there. So I did the BB spindle...quiet. Be sure to remove, clean, lube the pinch bolts too.

This one might not get confused with a rear wheel sound because it was pretty obvious BB area, but its a quick, easy one to eliminate.
Feb 27, 2021
Ok, I just got the new SL7, with these wheels, wish I had read this before. My wheels creak so badly friendly don’t want to ride with me !!!

I see all the checks and advice, mine is brand new SRAM SL7 Tarmac - it’s the spokes and it’s a design defect. Once under load above 200w they creak down badly. My weight is 85kg - so heavy but not monstrous - my friend - 63kg - rides and at 300w it happens - clearly flex in spokes and associated weight of the rider.

High quality grease is an option that lasts a ride, I have placed insulating tape around the spoke overlap and that improves it but it’s still there as the tape wears quickly - and goes quiet for a few rides before appearing again.

it’s a design fault and I am trying to reach Specialized to see what can be done - if they are designing new spokes but nothing back yet.

Can I suggest we all write in and start asking:
See if that sparks some change !
SL7 is a wonderful bike - just a shame it’s sound so ugly ....
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