Roval CLX32 noise ?

[biketheroad]

A "creak" sound has started coming from ( I think) my rear wheel , a set I bought used last Spring. It's not constant, mainly under load & not in sync w/pedal stroke. More so under load climbing or 18-20 mph cruising.
I've heard of spoke-rub on the drive side as one possibility and hub wear as another. LBS not up for diagnosing, any feedback appreciated.

 

[King Boonen]

Have you checked to see if there’s is any play in the bearings? That’d be my first inclination. Make sure you turn the wheel while doing it.

 

[biketheroad]

Couldn't detect any play but found an account on another forum of CLX 40's crossed-spokes ( ie drive side) rubbing one another due to poor spoke tension . Having truing & tension addressed, we'll see.
Meanwhile I've put my Hed Ardennes back on and all's quiet so I'm sure the "creaking" is coming from the rear wheel.

Thanks for the input

 

[King Boonen]

That's not a bad set of back up wheels!

If it doesn't solve it my next port of call would be getting the bearings out, taking the covers off and having a look. Might need re-greasing, if there's no play I doubt they need replacing.

 

[biketheroad]

Makes sense to get a look at the bearings , guess I was hoping Ceramic meant forever.

 

[biketheroad]

With the wheel trued + tensioned, bearing checked, BB & headset bearings all OK I guess I have a "phantom noise"
I've swapped out wheels & pedals, re-set seatpost w/friction paste and put on new cleats. Checked saddle mount and the bottle cage screw/boss mounts. Quiet & smooth for the first 20 mi. then "creak" began to return - not constant , a few revolutions at a time. Shifting up or down interrupts noise but then it returns. Mostly quiet but from time-to- time it sneaks back.
Next step will be deraileurs… ugh

My favorite century is in 3 wks, hate to think of a day with it
Suggestions ??

 

[King Boonen]

Ceramic is apparently great as long as you make sure they're well maintained.

So the creaking has been isolated to the wheels which is good. If shifting interrupts it my next guess is the freehub. Any play there? If the Ardennes were fine then I think it's unlikely to be the derailleurs.

 

[biketheroad]

I'll check the freehub which I think has the 16T

 

[biketheroad]

So the Roval CLX's are in fine shape ( tuned, trued, bearings lubed & star ratchet inspected ) & not the source of the noise as, after re-mounting the Ardennes and riding a few hours, the intermittent (sp?) noise returned.
Replaced RD5800 ( had been damaged & side plates straightened x2) with new medium cage RD8000

Yesterday, back with the Roval's, the noise returned after 15 miles, but stopped after a few rev's. Maybe squaked again 1-2 times on the remaining 30 miles. Never could discern what changed to cause/clear the noise )
So weird.
Next stop chain ring bolts.

Thanks for reading, offering advice.

 

[deanabt]

Not sure if this is the same, but sounds like it might be. This video is the noise at it's worst, but all characteristics match the description above. I've isolated it top my Roval CLX50s ('19 S-Works Venge, all DA including cassette)...when I swap in my 64s, the sound is not present - everything else has been swapped/rebuilt to help isolate.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw7F17Wesv8
. HELP!

 

[jmdirt]

Carbon frames make chasing sounds tough.

Skewers? I had a 'creaking' noise that I searched for for at least 20 rides that ended up being the front skewer. Different skewer...quiet.

Headset cups? We all check the bearing, but did you check the cups? I had a 'groaning-popping' sound that was the bottom bearing cup in the frame. There was some epoxy slag in the cup and no lube of any kind (30 day old bike!). A little wet sanding to smooth out the epoxy, and a little carbon paste...quiet.

Stem bolts? Dry stem bolts (bars and fork tube) can make random noises. Lube...quiet.

Sweaty bars? The interface between the bars and stem can get sweat in it and make noise. Clean...quiet.

Rear Der? The screw that holds the rear der cage onto the der body can get dry and dirty and make all sorts of noises. Its worse with clutch type derailers and obviously on bikes that are ridden in the dirt a lot. EDIT: I see that you replaced the RD.

Seat post collar/seat tube interface? I had a 'creaking' noise that I was able to pinpoint to the seat post, but even cleaning and lubing didn't make it go away. The third time that I was playing with it I knocked the collar off by mistake and there was a 'roll' of clear coat at the top of the seat tube. I cut it off with a xacto and smoothed it with 250 grit...quiet.

Dropout inserts? Bikes with through axles use various inserts in the dropouts, be sure that these are tight.

Saddle under the saddle? The top of most seat posts has a saddle (half circle) shape that the clamp sits in. Clean and lube this...quiet.

You already hit pedals and cleats...

 

[jmdirt]

Add one:

If you have a splined BB spindle, pop the crank arm off, clean, lube...quiet. I've had a small 'crack' going on for a week. Today I decided that it was the pedal spindle, but after cleaning and lubing those threads, it was still there. So I did the BB spindle...quiet. Be sure to remove, clean, lube the pinch bolts too.

This one might not get confused with a rear wheel sound because it was pretty obvious BB area, but its a quick, easy one to eliminate.

 

[NJCT]

Ok, I just got the new SL7, with these wheels, wish I had read this before. My wheels creak so badly friendly don’t want to ride with me !!!

I see all the checks and advice, mine is brand new SRAM SL7 Tarmac - it’s the spokes and it’s a design defect. Once under load above 200w they creak down badly. My weight is 85kg - so heavy but not monstrous - my friend - 63kg - rides and at 300w it happens - clearly flex in spokes and associated weight of the rider.

High quality grease is an option that lasts a ride, I have placed insulating tape around the spoke overlap and that improves it but it’s still there as the tape wears quickly - and goes quiet for a few rides before appearing again.

it’s a design fault and I am trying to reach Specialized to see what can be done - if they are designing new spokes but nothing back yet.

Can I suggest we all write in and start asking:
support@rovalcomponents.com
See if that sparks some change !
SL7 is a wonderful bike - just a shame it’s sound so ugly ....

 

[Andreas Derblom]

Hi guys! I have this same problem with my quite new (6month) CLX64. I hade same noise on my old CLX40. On them I changed the crossing of the spokes from left/right to right/left, that then gave the spokecross a small air-gap of less than a mm. This is because the spokes are a little bended from the original mounting. Before I did this I tried to oil the crossings etc. But it never went away completely, until I did this with the spokes. And now it comes from my new Venge, totally annoying! But now you guys get a clearer view of where the noise comes from, because I tried everything until I discovered it was the spokes. B R Andreas

 

[Hugh Januss]

Random noises are just your bike letting you know it's still there and working for you.

 

[winkybiker]

My CLX50 began creaking from the freehub ramped-stepped engagement rings. The clue would be that freewheeling for a second would silence it briefly, but the noise would return under sustained pedaling like when climbing. They pull part easily without tools and are dead easy to clean and re-grease. Problem fixed.

 

[winkybiker]

Hi guys! I have this same problem with my quite new (6month) CLX64. I hade same noise on my old CLX40. On them I changed the crossing of the spokes from left/right to right/left, that then gave the spokecross a small air-gap of less than a mm. This is because the spokes are a little bended from the original mounting. Before I did this I tried to oil the crossings etc. But it never went away completely, until I did this with the spokes. And now it comes from my new Venge, totally annoying! But now you guys get a clearer view of where the noise comes from, because I tried everything until I discovered it was the spokes. B R Andreas

This wasn't my issue in the end, but I did suspect that creaking from the spokes touching might have been it. I have never been able to understand why wheels are laced so that spokes touch where they cross. Spokes are simple tension-members and should be allowed to be straight. Bending them past each other just creates a rub-point.

 

[textures24]

Hi guys! I have this same problem with my quite new (6month) CLX64. I hade same noise on my old CLX40. On them I changed the crossing of the spokes from left/right to right/left, that then gave the spokecross a small air-gap of less than a mm. This is because the spokes are a little bended from the original mounting. Before I did this I tried to oil the crossings etc. But it never went away completely, until I did this with the spokes. And now it comes from my new Venge, totally annoying! But now you guys get a clearer view of where the noise comes from, because I tried everything until I discovered it was the spokes. B R Andreas

Suspect that my C38s have a similar issue. The noise appears to only engage when the chain is at the largest 2 cogs in the back so always when climbing. My assumption is that the torque on the spokes is greater the closer the chain gets to the hub. With the wheel off, if I lightly squeeze near the crossing points of the spokes I can hear a click as they run against each other. Will be trying some high quality grease and/or tape that can reduce metal friction between them.