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Saddle to handlebar drop

Hi, I know we see pros run quite deep/extreme drops (ala Adam Hansen style) on their set-ups and I'm just trying to get an idea of what the saddle to handlebar drop range is for us mere mortals. If you can/want, please post your "size". Thanks. To start with, mine is :
Rider height : 168cm;
"Race" Frame : Time VXR size XXS, head-tube-length 12cm;
Saddle to handlebar drop : 83mm;
Note : saddle to handlebar drop was measured by placing a spirit level on top of the saddle and dropping a plum-line at the end of it to line up with the handlebar and measuring the distance from the spirit level to the top of the handlebar.
 
bladerunner said:
Hi, I know we see pros run quite deep/extreme drops (ala Adam Hansen style) on their set-ups and I'm just trying to get an idea of what the saddle to handlebar drop range is for us mere mortals. If you can/want, please post your "size". Thanks. To start with, mine is :
Rider height : 168cm;
"Race" Frame : Time VXR size XXS, head-tube-length 12cm;
Saddle to handlebar drop : 83mm;
Note : saddle to handlebar drop was measured by placing a spirit level on top of the saddle and dropping a plum-line at the end of it to line up with the handlebar and measuring the distance from the spirit level to the top of the handlebar.

Does it really matter what others use? It is physiological and what works for you, works for you.

Build the bike with spacers under the stem and a stem that you can flip over and experiment..move spacers around, flip the stem, etc..
 
Bustedknuckle said:
bladerunner said:
Hi, I know we see pros run quite deep/extreme drops (ala Adam Hansen style) on their set-ups and I'm just trying to get an idea of what the saddle to handlebar drop range is for us mere mortals. If you can/want, please post your "size". Thanks. To start with, mine is :
Rider height : 168cm;
"Race" Frame : Time VXR size XXS, head-tube-length 12cm;
Saddle to handlebar drop : 83mm;
Note : saddle to handlebar drop was measured by placing a spirit level on top of the saddle and dropping a plum-line at the end of it to line up with the handlebar and measuring the distance from the spirit level to the top of the handlebar.

Does it really matter what others use? It is physiological and what works for you, works for you.

Build the bike with spacers under the stem and a stem that you can flip over and experiment..move spacers around, flip the stem, etc..


I was not trying to suggest anything about what a "good" or suitable drop is. I just wanted to see in general what kind of a drop we (mere mortals) use compared to some of the pros. If you can/want, please post your particular drop.
 
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JayKosta said:
All depends on YOUR comfort / power / results.

A large amount of 'drop' can improve aerodynamics, but that's not worth much if it makes you slower overall.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

I slam my stem. I don't like feeling hunched up and having my body feeling squashed. I put more power down when seated because I have no body issues in this position. Just focus on turning my legs over. I can spin 53x11 without any issues whatsoever. For me its about performance and putting the power down rather than aero although you will be naturally more aero if your low at the front. One of my friends had a go on my Trek and he thought he was going to be uncomfortable as hell. But he loved it and has changed his own bike in a much more similar position. I also have no issues with my seat /saddle sores etc. Also no neck issues which a few riders I know have had issues with on rides over 2 hours. IMO get in a good position where you only have to focus on your legs is the way to go slammed or not.
 
Re: Re:

ray j willings said:
JayKosta said:
All depends on YOUR comfort / power / results.

A large amount of 'drop' can improve aerodynamics, but that's not worth much if it makes you slower overall.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Just focus on turning my legs over. I can spin 53x11 without any issues whatsoever.

When you say "spin 53X11", what cadence can you maintain on the flat?
 
I'm currently experimenting with my position on my geared bike as I only use it on the turbo so I can move it around and see how it feels. It's currently "slammed" but I have absolutely no idea what the drop is I'm afraid. So far it seems comfortable, I'm also playing a little with my fixed wheel but as that's my riding bike I don't fiddle with it much.
 
Re:

King Boonen said:
Spin 53x11? To me, spinning is 90rpm+.

90rpm on a 53x11 is 56kph (probably a bit more, that's based on a nominal 27" wheel). That's pro flat stage speed...
With 700cx23mm tyres, 53x11 @ 90 rpm is 60kmh. That's last 10kms of a pro flat stage speed. :rolleyes:

53x11 @ 60 rpm is still 40kmh. Not exactly spinning and still going at a good clip.

Maybe it's time to dust off that small chainring?
 
bladerunner said:
Bustedknuckle said:
bladerunner said:
Hi, I know we see pros run quite deep/extreme drops (ala Adam Hansen style) on their set-ups and I'm just trying to get an idea of what the saddle to handlebar drop range is for us mere mortals. If you can/want, please post your "size". Thanks. To start with, mine is :
Rider height : 168cm;
"Race" Frame : Time VXR size XXS, head-tube-length 12cm;
Saddle to handlebar drop : 83mm;
Note : saddle to handlebar drop was measured by placing a spirit level on top of the saddle and dropping a plum-line at the end of it to line up with the handlebar and measuring the distance from the spirit level to the top of the handlebar.

Does it really matter what others use? It is physiological and what works for you, works for you.

Build the bike with spacers under the stem and a stem that you can flip over and experiment..move spacers around, flip the stem, etc..


I was not trying to suggest anything about what a "good" or suitable drop is. I just wanted to see in general what kind of a drop we (mere mortals) use compared to some of the pros. If you can/want, please post your particular drop.

About 2cm..less than an inch drop, handlebars level with saddle.
 
Re:

King Boonen said:
Spin 53x11? To me, spinning is 90rpm+.

90rpm on a 53x11 is 56kph (probably a bit more, that's based on a nominal 27" wheel). That's pro flat stage speed...

Not even Froome 'spins' with a 53/11 on the flats. If anybody here 'spins' with a 53/11 on the flats, 90 rpm..go directly to the pro peloton, do not pass go...
 
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winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
JayKosta said:
All depends on YOUR comfort / power / results.

A large amount of 'drop' can improve aerodynamics, but that's not worth much if it makes you slower overall.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Just focus on turning my legs over. I can spin 53x11 without any issues whatsoever.

When you say "spin 53X11", what cadence can you maintain on the flat?

I have no idea . I don't use SRMS's etc. All I can say is that if I am riding with my friends on long flat roads I usually ride in my 53 x 11 bobbin along with them. They are spinning there legs more than me but I am not using as much energy IMO. I don't find it that hard to be honest but they are not going full gas just a good overall speed for the distance they/we are riding. Obviously if the road go's up or is rolling I use a easier gear. I remember PiS%%ing this guy off doing laps at regents park. He almost had a go at me for riding in my 11. I climb in my big ring as well its just something I have always done. I am trying to correct it and spin a bit more but I got up the col d madone " I climbed 2 other cols before on that day much better " in 36 minutes [ 53 27/24] all the way up.
I definitely could go quicker if it was my first climb I. My Legs gave out on the very last part once I did the left turn I blasted up the steep bit and then the days climbing hit my legs, shame because I was definitely going to go sub 35min's . Sorry for the lack of scientific data but like I said I don't have a power meter and just ride on how I feel. If I feel good I go for it if I feel lousy I go for it :D
 
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)
 
Re:

JackRabbitSlims said:
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)

Go fixed!! :D
 
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JackRabbitSlims said:
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)


I rode the steeper parts 53x27 [ and the end part. I was spent ] and the easier sections I was in 53 x24 .
Its a recon cassette 11 x27.
I have no issues going across the cassette, I have been doing it for years with no problems.
 
Re: Re:

42x16ss said:
King Boonen said:
Spin 53x11? To me, spinning is 90rpm+.

90rpm on a 53x11 is 56kph (probably a bit more, that's based on a nominal 27" wheel). That's pro flat stage speed...
With 700cx23mm tyres, 53x11 @ 90 rpm is 60kmh. That's last 10kms of a pro flat stage speed. :rolleyes:

53x11 @ 60 rpm is still 40kmh. Not exactly spinning and still going at a good clip.

Maybe it's time to dust off that small chainring?

I can spin 53x11 at 90 rpm's.

going downhill
 
Re: Re:

ray j willings said:
JackRabbitSlims said:
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)


I rode the steeper parts 53x27 [ and the end part. I was spent ] and the easier sections I was in 53 x24 .
Its a recon cassette 11 x27.
I have no issues going across the cassette, I have been doing it for years with no problems.

Apart from the fact that it is pointless (if your front derailleur works), I can't stand the noisiness of a (big to big) cross-chained gear. The fact that the rear derailleur is fully stretched out doesn't seem ideal either. You do realise that the gears available in the small ring overlap the gears available in the big ring by quite a margin, don't you? There are gears that are virtually identical to your 53x27 and 53x24 available on the little ring (39x19 and 39x17). These would work much more smoothly and more efficiently (you'd be faster). Your desire to always be in the big ring, no matter what, continues to baffle me.
 
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winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
JackRabbitSlims said:
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)


I rode the steeper parts 53x27 [ and the end part. I was spent ] and the easier sections I was in 53 x24 .
Its a recon cassette 11 x27.
I have no issues going across the cassette, I have been doing it for years with no problems.

Apart from the fact that it is pointless (if your front derailleur works), I can't stand the noisiness of a (big to big) cross-chained gear. The fact that the rear derailleur is fully stretched out doesn't seem ideal either. You do realise that the gears available in the small ring overlap the gears available in the big ring by quite a margin, don't you? There are gears that are virtually identical to your 53x27 and 53x24 available on the little ring (39x19 and 39x17). These would work much more smoothly and more efficiently (you'd be faster). Your desire to always be in the big ring, no matter what, continues to baffle me.

To be Honest winky , it baffles me to. Its not a desire, I have no issue riding on the small ring ,Its not a macho thing, I mean most of the pro peloton are on compacts on a hilly stage. Most of the chaps I ride with use compacts. it just seems easier on the big ring, my legs turn over easier if that makes sense.
I keep saying every year that I will try some small ring climbing , give it a real go. Once the weather gets nice I will spend a few weeks just riding in the small ring and see how it go's. My knees are good though, no issues so far touch wood or my head :D
 
Re: Re:

ray j willings said:
winkybiker said:
ray j willings said:
JackRabbitSlims said:
^^ You don't need to go all SRM....a very simple bike computer will give you speed & cadence.

53 27/24 - :confused: :confused:
http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html

I know it's not apples with apples, but Pro Triathletes work hard on their flexibility (Yoga, Pilates etc) so that they can stay in that super low, aggressive, aero (slammed) position for long periods of time and maintain their power output.
If you're looking to get nice and low (for whatever reason) it has to be comfortable and you shouldn't be sacrificing power to do so.

It's 5am here and can't be bothered measuring my bikes for you OP - sorry.
Various drops....Commuter (Bianchi Pista SS) has the largest drop.....but I'm not worried about speed, power, performance on that one....just looks ;)


I rode the steeper parts 53x27 [ and the end part. I was spent ] and the easier sections I was in 53 x24 .
Its a recon cassette 11 x27.
I have no issues going across the cassette, I have been doing it for years with no problems.

Apart from the fact that it is pointless (if your front derailleur works), I can't stand the noisiness of a (big to big) cross-chained gear. The fact that the rear derailleur is fully stretched out doesn't seem ideal either. You do realise that the gears available in the small ring overlap the gears available in the big ring by quite a margin, don't you? There are gears that are virtually identical to your 53x27 and 53x24 available on the little ring (39x19 and 39x17). These would work much more smoothly and more efficiently (you'd be faster). Your desire to always be in the big ring, no matter what, continues to baffle me.

To be Honest winky , it baffles me to. Its not a desire, I have no issue riding on the small ring ,Its not a macho thing, I mean most of the pro peloton are on compacts on a hilly stage. Most of the chaps I ride with use compacts. it just seems easier on the big ring, my legs turn over easier if that makes sense.
I keep saying every year that I will try some small ring climbing , give it a real go. Once the weather gets nice I will spend a few weeks just riding in the small ring and see how it go's. My knees are good though, no issues so far touch wood or my head :D

If you don't use the small ring it would make much more sense to run a single ring up front to have a better chain-line for your lower gears.

Would same weight too!
 
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JackRabbitSlims said:
ray j willings said:
I know KB , but I don't want my bike to look like a hipster bike. Plus I will have a go on the small ring once we get some consistent weather in London.
I


just to be safe, run a triple up front.......will also help with your freaky chain line action - win / win ;)

Don't forget though Pantani blasted up Alp d huez on his 53. [so did I ] Bertie rides in his big ring a lot as well.
If a bike wasn't mean to go 53 /24/27 it wouldn't but it does and I love it and what about Wi fli . Bertie used that so he could stay in his big ring. I may try a wi fli on one of my bikes at some point.
Went for a nice ride today climbed all round Highgate " the hills" for 2 hours [ that's all I need to do] anyone who knows London can tell you that they are pretty steep and floated around 53/24 from the bottom to the top. I love it . I am a big ring maniac when it comes to climbing :D
Still I must be doing something right . When I climbed the col d eze I went past everyone :D was just a few Minutes off of T Martins TT time and I could have gone quicker if I knew the climb better and judged the tempo better. "man" I'm going to start doping :D Yeah I'm boasting ;)