Indurain,
Not sure if you've built these are already, but I have something similar that works exceedingly well.
Fronts = Radial, DT Rev, 32 hole, w 320g alu rims, super lightweight AM Classic micro hub.
Rear Left = Radial, DT Rev, 12 holes, brass nipples, 320g rims. AM Classic Hi flange hubs.
Rear Right = X3, DT Rev, 24 holes, brass nipple.
Its old trick I learned from HI-Engineering. You have 2x the spokes on the right, which takes up the tension from the dishing and the torque from hub. This comes pretty close to equal tension L/R. Hi-E made special hubs that were drilled accordingly, but are no longer available. However, AM Classic makes 18h hubs. Stick em in a drill press and drill out a few more holes, pretty easy.
I have 2 sets of like this (the older ones with Velocity rims, about 420g, which have held up for more than 40,000k, with only minor maintenance) These use the original Hi-E hubs which are incredible. The new ones have about 5000k on them with no issues. (I'm 6'3" and 200 lbs)
A few weekends ago the rear derailleur broke off, got sucked into the right rear and stopped me cold. Bent the hell out of a few spokes, but was still able to ride next day once I replaced the derailleur). I did replace the bent spokes once i got back to civilization.
High spoke count distributes the stress across the rim, so the unsupported sections are a small, hence I get away with a light rim and light spokes.
Light rims tend to flex more, so they'll take a hard hit and bounce back rather than getting damaged.
Building this spoke pattern is a real trip to wrap your head around the first time. Hi-E gave me full plans and still spent an hour or swearing away. But after that, I found them really easy to build and tensioning them is simple.
Hope this helps you. Have fun.
Olaf
Not sure if you've built these are already, but I have something similar that works exceedingly well.
Fronts = Radial, DT Rev, 32 hole, w 320g alu rims, super lightweight AM Classic micro hub.
Rear Left = Radial, DT Rev, 12 holes, brass nipples, 320g rims. AM Classic Hi flange hubs.
Rear Right = X3, DT Rev, 24 holes, brass nipple.
Its old trick I learned from HI-Engineering. You have 2x the spokes on the right, which takes up the tension from the dishing and the torque from hub. This comes pretty close to equal tension L/R. Hi-E made special hubs that were drilled accordingly, but are no longer available. However, AM Classic makes 18h hubs. Stick em in a drill press and drill out a few more holes, pretty easy.
I have 2 sets of like this (the older ones with Velocity rims, about 420g, which have held up for more than 40,000k, with only minor maintenance) These use the original Hi-E hubs which are incredible. The new ones have about 5000k on them with no issues. (I'm 6'3" and 200 lbs)
A few weekends ago the rear derailleur broke off, got sucked into the right rear and stopped me cold. Bent the hell out of a few spokes, but was still able to ride next day once I replaced the derailleur). I did replace the bent spokes once i got back to civilization.
High spoke count distributes the stress across the rim, so the unsupported sections are a small, hence I get away with a light rim and light spokes.
Light rims tend to flex more, so they'll take a hard hit and bounce back rather than getting damaged.
Building this spoke pattern is a real trip to wrap your head around the first time. Hi-E gave me full plans and still spent an hour or swearing away. But after that, I found them really easy to build and tensioning them is simple.
Hope this helps you. Have fun.
Olaf
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