::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

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Apr 20, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Nemesis for sure, Montreal with the "Durex" hard anodized finish would be the cheapest option.
F20's are race day only, super light at 360g.

thanks, nemesis it is. unless of course you can recommend something that is better and italian. :D what do you think of ghisallo corsa wooden rims?
 
Mar 19, 2009
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gregod said:
thanks, nemesis it is. unless of course you can recommend something that is better and italian. :D what do you think of ghisallo corsa wooden rims?

They work really well on rough roads, gravel, dirt, cobbles. Wood is too soft on paved roads though. In fact it was a stark difference in ride quality depending on the road, if it wasn't rough they felt really noodley at speed in the turns. Popular with the tweed set I guess, mostly for show.
 
Jan 8, 2012
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. . . lacing quandary

I'm going to build a 24 spoke HED C2 w/White Industries H2 (front) and Sapim Lasers in a cross 2 Crow's Foot configuration, all spokes adjacent to each other. Everything I have been able to find indicates there should be no difference if laced heads in or out (but all the same direction, including the radial spoke.) This will be (an experiment) for road and 'cross as backup/primary/occasional wheel-set. Any recommendations from the experts?

Thanks for your perceptions . . .
 
Mar 19, 2009
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s4442jlp said:
I'm going to build a 24 spoke HED C2 w/White Industries H2 (front) and Sapim Lasers in a cross 2 Crow's Foot configuration, all spokes adjacent to each other. Everything I have been able to find indicates there should be no difference if laced heads in or out (but all the same direction, including the radial spoke.) This will be (an experiment) for road and 'cross as backup/primary/occasional wheel-set. Any recommendations from the experts?

Thanks for your perceptions . . .

You're right it doesn't matter, it's all about aesthetics. No difference between alternating, heads in, or heads out, only the way it looks. I like when people experiment with something other than the standard 2x/3x, lord knows I see enough on the daily. Post a pic when you're done.
 
Jan 8, 2012
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
You're right it doesn't matter, it's all about aesthetics. No difference between alternating, heads in, or heads out, only the way it looks. I like when people experiment with something other than the standard 2x/3x, lord knows I see enough on the daily. Post a pic when you're done.

Thanks (for the encouragement.) This will be a winter project; still waiting on the hubs and final determination on both wheels before ordering the spokes, but will post pics when done.

Any comments or concerns on building the rear in a cross 3 ds - cross 2 nds configuration. This will be 28 spoke HED C2 with White Industries H3 and Sapim Lasers w/brass nipples. My research/understanding is that the ds flange on the H3 is large enough to permit cross 3 with enough head clearance. I believe this to be a better solution to straight cross 2 or radial/cross 2. Being 28 spoke, a crow' foot nds won't work. The main intent for the wheels will be a mix of road (general, 23mm tire, no racing and most likely will do service on the 'cross bike) and 'cross racing (probably tubeless depending how the 23mm rim works w/o tubes.)

Any comments, recommendations, criticisms are welcome.
 
s4442jlp said:
Thanks (for the encouragement.) This will be a winter project; still waiting on the hubs and final determination on both wheels before ordering the spokes, but will post pics when done.

Any comments or concerns on building the rear in a cross 3 ds - cross 2 nds configuration. This will be 28 spoke HED C2 with White Industries H3 and Sapim Lasers w/brass nipples. My research/understanding is that the ds flange on the H3 is large enough to permit cross 3 with enough head clearance. I believe this to be a better solution to straight cross 2 or radial/cross 2. Being 28 spoke, a crow' foot nds won't work. The main intent for the wheels will be a mix of road (general, 23mm tire, no racing and most likely will do service on the 'cross bike) and 'cross racing (probably tubeless depending how the 23mm rim works w/o tubes.)

Any comments, recommendations, criticisms are welcome.


Do 3 cross left side as well..and do inside pulling or 'headout' lacing for the pulling spokes. less bend of the spoke over the flange for the pulling spokes.

AND if yer gonna cross on these things, I suggest Sapim Race or DT comps for the drive side, Lasers or Dt Revs NDS.
 
Jan 8, 2012
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
. . . Post a pic when you're done.
Thanks for the help.

Finished . . . waiting for salt-free roads (Spring) to ride. Crows Foot front on H2 with radial heads in (didn't like the way they layed up with all heads out). 682 grams w/all brass nips and veloplugs.

picture.php


picture.php


Did cross 3 DS and cross 2 n/DS with H3 hub; liked the heads in pulling spoke angle better. Will see how they ride/stay true and change DS spokes to Race if needed. 854 grams again all brass nips and veloplugs.

picture.php


picture.php
 
s4442jlp said:
Thanks for the help.

Finished . . . waiting for salt-free roads (Spring) to ride. Crows Foot front on H2 with radial heads in (didn't like the way they layed up with all heads out). 682 grams w/all brass nips and veloplugs.

picture.php


picture.php


Did cross 3 DS and cross 2 n/DS with H3 hub; liked the heads in pulling spoke angle better. Will see how they ride/stay true and change DS spokes to Race if needed. 854 grams again all brass nips and veloplugs.

picture.php


picture.php

That's nice but not really 'crow's foot. Real crow's foot is on a 24 or 36 hole , groups of 3 spokes, repeated 4 or 6 times each side with a radial spoke, and 2 crossed spokes 'surrounding' each radial spoke, the groups on a single side, not alternating with spokes on the other side.

http://www.terminalvelocity.demon.co.uk/WheelBuild
 
Mar 13, 2009
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Couple of opinions please:

Campagnolo Record Hub vs C4?
There was a re buzz around the C4's a while back, how are they going with a bit of service time


Lightweight tubular rim (Mavic Reflex or Ambrossio F20) with 32/36 spokes

or

Heavier Rim like Nemisis, Hed C2 or Velocity Major Tom with 24/28
 
Notso Swift said:
Couple of opinions please:

Campagnolo Record Hub vs C4?
There was a re buzz around the C4's a while back, how are they going with a bit of service time


Lightweight tubular rim (Mavic Reflex or Ambrossio F20) with 32/36 spokes

or

Heavier Rim like Nemisis, Hed C2 or Velocity Major Tom with 24/28

Are these strictly race wheels or as a really nice set of everyday wheels?
 
Mar 13, 2009
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42x16ss said:
Are these strictly race wheels or as a really nice set of everyday wheels?

"Yes"

I have deep Carbon Tubs for my pure race wheels, but this is for my race bike. So windy race days but also the once or twice a week where I take the race bike out for "serious" training, as opposed to ticking over distance (eg Tuesday night we go to an old open Velodrome for intervals)
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Notso Swift said:
Couple of opinions please:

Campagnolo Record Hub vs C4?
There was a re buzz around the C4's a while back, how are they going with a bit of service time


Lightweight tubular rim (Mavic Reflex or Ambrossio F20) with 32/36 spokes

or

Heavier Rim like Nemisis, Hed C2 or Velocity Major Tom with 24/28

Record hubs are a great deal for the money, but you're limited to 32h 3x only, not there's anything wrong with that. C-4 has been under the radar for a minute, curious to see what happens with them because I've heard their hubs are a steal for a domestic (US) produced hub.

Ambrosio F20 only comes in 32 and 28. Since we already know that you'll be using them for some races, I suppose the next questions would be; rider weight, pedaling style mash or spin, conditions of roads being ridden and raced???. This info would determine spoke count, lacing pattern, and rim choice.
 
Mar 13, 2009
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90kg sprinter, but not hard on equipment, I do not have a great snap, but I can spin it out - I can spin 140 easily, but I wind up to it
Roads in for the crits are very good, smooth tarmac as you would expect
On road races they are highly variable, often with a coarse open chip surface, but that would be races, so you sacrifice some life. When training the surface is good, no broken or potholed areas, that is what the training bike is for

Something I have just thought of, the 23 mm rims for the Velocity and C2's would be a PITA, as my tubs are 20.5mm, so swapping wouldn't be a lot of fun because I like my brakes adjusted a bit more accurately than "open or closed" on the caliper!

Open to other rim suggestions as well, same sort of things as listed
 
Dec 7, 2011
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Opinions on H Plus Son TB 14

I'm interested in people's opinions of the following build:

32 hole Ultegra hubs with H Plus Son TB 14's (suggestion was 2 cross for the front and 3 cross for the rear). They're to be used for everyday training, no racing and I'm about 80kg.

The few reviews I've seen on the TB 14 are good, will this build be up to what I need them for? I'm not rough on my gear.
 
May 21, 2010
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Llewellyn said:
I'm interested in people's opinions of the following build:

32 hole Ultegra hubs with H Plus Son TB 14's (suggestion was 2 cross for the front and 3 cross for the rear). They're to be used for everyday training, no racing and I'm about 80kg.

The few reviews I've seen on the TB 14 are good, will this build be up to what I need them for? I'm not rough on my gear.
interested by these too
 
Sep 1, 2011
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Something I have just thought of, the 23 mm rims for the Velocity and C2's would be a PITA, as my tubs are 20.5mm, so swapping wouldn't be a lot of fun because I like my brakes adjusted a bit more accurately than "open or closed" on the caliper!



Try using the Velocity Escape. Same profile as the Major Tom but 19mm x 19mm. You could also use the Pro Elite. However the size of the rim falls outside of the UCI benchmark and may not be legal.
 
Llewellyn said:
I'm interested in people's opinions of the following build:

32 hole Ultegra hubs with H Plus Son TB 14's (suggestion was 2 cross for the front and 3 cross for the rear). They're to be used for everyday training, no racing and I'm about 80kg.

The few reviews I've seen on the TB 14 are good, will this build be up to what I need them for? I'm not rough on my gear.

Why on earth do 2 cross for 32 hole? The difference in spoke lengths means the weight difference is the weight of about 1 spoke AND 2 cross isn't as strong as 3 cross. Othwrwise if built well(3 cross front) it will be a fine set. Use brass nipples also.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Llewellyn said:
I'm interested in people's opinions of the following build:

32 hole Ultegra hubs with H Plus Son TB 14's (suggestion was 2 cross for the front and 3 cross for the rear). They're to be used for everyday training, no racing and I'm about 80kg.

The few reviews I've seen on the TB 14 are good, will this build be up to what I need them for? I'm not rough on my gear.

I've built up a couple sets of TB14's this winter, so far so good. I actually pleaded for months with Ambrosio to make a wider version of their Excellight or Excellence and they were not having it, two months later H Plus Son releases the TB14 to the public, go figure. We'll see how they hold up to my battering this season, but they should be great just based on the quality of manufacture.

Do the front 3x as well, no reason for a 2x on a 32 hole wheel.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Notso Swift said:
90kg sprinter, but not hard on equipment, I do not have a great snap, but I can spin it out - I can spin 140 easily, but I wind up to it
Roads in for the crits are very good, smooth tarmac as you would expect
On road races they are highly variable, often with a coarse open chip surface, but that would be races, so you sacrifice some life. When training the surface is good, no broken or potholed areas, that is what the training bike is for

Something I have just thought of, the 23 mm rims for the Velocity and C2's would be a PITA, as my tubs are 20.5mm, so swapping wouldn't be a lot of fun because I like my brakes adjusted a bit more accurately than "open or closed" on the caliper!

Open to other rim suggestions as well, same sort of things as listed

The effort it takes to dial in brakes to work with different width rims is almost zero. I regularly go back and forth from 19.5 to 23 wide rims, it's the difference of maybe two turns of the barrel adjuster, not hard at all.

Tubular - Velocity Major Tom 28h 2x front, 32h 3x rear.
Clincher - Velocity A23 28h 2x front, 32h 3x rear.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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SpannerBender said:
Velocity A23 28h 2x front, 32h 3x rear on DA 7900s with Revolutions what I am looking to get made up. 12mm or 14mm nipples best on the A23 rims?

Revolutions only if you're light enough, front, non drive side, but no Revs on the drive side, use Comps. 12mm nipples brass, not aluminum.
 
SpannerBender said:
Velocity A23 28h 2x front, 32h 3x rear on DA 7900s with Revolutions what I am looking to get made up. 12mm or 14mm nipples best on the A23 rims?

Agree with above post..no Revs or Sapim Lasers on the RH rear unless you are about a buck 25 in weight. Brass nipps, no ALU...for any wheel.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
Agree with above post..no Revs or Sapim Lasers on the RH rear unless you are about a buck 25 in weight. Brass nipps, no ALU...for any wheel.

Exactly! Weight savings between aluminum and brass nips isn't even worth mentioning. The best way to cut the lifespan of a wheel set by 1/3rd or more is to use aluminum nipples. Even adding all kinds of lubes and such to keep it from oxidizing or chemically welding itself to the rim doesn't matter, one will eventually fail then the rest soon to follow. SAY NO TO ALUMINUM NIPPLES!!!