Wheels for Cobbled Sportifs?

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Fiemme said:
Before giving everyone a bagging for suggesting you use tubulars instead of crappy clinchers to ride the cobblestones of belguim, try giving it a go. I can guarantee that you will understand everyones comments on the benefits of Tubulars over Clinchers once you have used them. Instead of being the in the 99% catergory of people who use clinchers and having no idea about tubulars, try being the 1% that do not use clinchers and reep the benefits.


As for the cost of tubulars they are as cheap if not cheaper than using clinchers.

But it doesn't prevent some in those 99% from spouting BS about tubulars.

Tubular design is a wonderful one and no clincher, with tube or w/o, will duplicate the ride of a nice tubular. Yep, gotta glue them on, which is really easy.
 
Mar 18, 2009
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Thanks again for all of your replies. I am going to take the plunge and try tubulars for the first time. I will have plenty of time to practice on them before next year's sportifs. I have been PMing RDV about building Ambrioso Nemesis wheels. I am not a weight weenie, so the additional weight is not a concern. I am currently 87kg and racing weight is 78-80kg, so the F20s are probably not for me anyway.

I currently have Zipp 303 clinchers with a wireless PT hub. I rarely race anymore, but I enjoy the PM for training purposes. I don't want to invest in an SRM because of cost, and prefer not to use Quarq because of bad experiences with compatibility between FSA cranks and Shimano componentry. So even though hub-based power systems may not be the future of PMs, I am happy sticking with a system that has worked well for me and suits my modest aims. So my next question: would you spend the additional money on a wireless PT hub with this wheel build or just stick to the less expensive non-PT hub? I think one issue may be that the PT hub is only available with a maximum of 32 holes and RDV is suggesting 36 holes.

Another question is bike choice: longer wheel base carbon 'cross bike (Stevens Team Ultegra) or the more comfortable custom titanium Lynskey road bike (which I ride most of the time). Pretty sure I am going to ride the Lynskey just because of its comfort and proven performance over rough surfaces, but any opinions either way would be welcome.
 
May 26, 2010
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elapid said:
Thanks again for all of your replies. I am going to take the plunge and try tubulars for the first time. I will have plenty of time to practice on them before next year's sportifs. I have been PMing RDV about building Ambrioso Nemesis wheels. I am not a weight weenie, so the additional weight is not a concern. I am currently 87kg and racing weight is 78-80kg, so the F20s are probably not for me anyway.

I currently have Zipp 303 clinchers with a wireless PT hub. I rarely race anymore, but I enjoy the PM for training purposes. I don't want to invest in an SRM because of cost, and prefer not to use Quarq because of bad experiences with compatibility between FSA cranks and Shimano componentry. So even though hub-based power systems may not be the future of PMs, I am happy sticking with a system that has worked well for me and suits my modest aims. So my next question: would you spend the additional money on a wireless PT hub with this wheel build or just stick to the less expensive non-PT hub? I think one issue may be that the PT hub is only available with a maximum of 32 holes and RDV is suggesting 36 holes.

Another question is bike choice: longer wheel base carbon 'cross bike (Stevens Team Ultegra) or the more comfortable custom titanium Lynskey road bike (which I ride most of the time). Pretty sure I am going to ride the Lynskey just because of its comfort and proven performance over rough surfaces, but any opinions either way would be welcome.


maybe start new threads for your new questions so as to get concise replies and less confusion
 
Mar 18, 2009
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Benotti69 said:
maybe start new threads for your new questions so as to get concise replies and less confusion

There are no new questions. I am continuing with the wheel build question and the question regarding bike choice was asked in my original post in this thread.
 
May 26, 2010
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elapid said:
There are no new questions. I am continuing with the wheel build question and the question regarding bike choice was asked in my original post in this thread.

No probs, as the wheel question was sorted i thought it might focus posters minds better, as it reads mostly as a wheel thread.
 
May 21, 2010
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Bustedknuckle said:
But it doesn't prevent some in those 99% from spouting BS about tubulars.

Tubular design is a wonderful one and no clincher, with tube or w/o, will duplicate the ride of a nice tubular. Yep, gotta glue them on, which is really easy.

Gentleman, please! The the poster is an Elapid! Yet, you have created from his OP a den of viperidae!
 
Mar 18, 2009
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Elagabalus said:
Gentleman, please! The the poster is an Elapid! Yet, you have created from his OP a den of viperidae!

LOL. Few know of the genus elapid - I am from Australia after all!

@ Benotti - no problems. The title is misleading in respect to bike choices, and the bike choice was a minor question because I was more interested in wheel builds.
 
Mar 13, 2009
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Well a picture is worth a thousand words:cool:

If you like the Lynskey, ride it, either will do the job but it is what feels better for you for the distance
32 will not be an issue even at 87kg, in my opinion, based purely on being the same weight and a decent enough sprinter to load up lots of gear are enough racing on ordinary roads

Before you actually go make sure you get them tied and soldered , not for strength, but because if you do break a spoke it will not flail out and get tangled anywhere
 
Sep 1, 2011
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elapid said:
I am currently 87kg and racing weight is 78-80kg, so the F20s are probably not for me anyway

I'm 90kg and use Velocity Escapes without any issue. When I was racing as a junior I used mavic GL330's (No one questioned the legalities of not using clinchers) I still have these rims on my training bike. Only last week did I notice a slight crack on one of the eyelets on the rear wheel. These are over 20years old.

F20's or Nemisis (Hard Anodised) rims with 32 spokes laced 3x will be pretty much bullet proof. If the pros can get through the Arenburg forest without breaking them then I guess the 'proof is in the pudding'. If RDV is telling you to go 36 spokes then go 36 spokes. From what this guy has said on other forums he knows his stuff. Buy new hubs if you have to these wheels are going to last a life time. Why bother with a Power Meter if you no longer race. At my age if I get out of bed in the morning and go for a ride I'm doing good. I don't need a power meter to give me that psychological disadvantage that I'm not doing as good as think I am.

As for the frame choice go with the Lynskey Titanium. I'll explain.

The nature of titanium will stand up to the rigors of the cobble better than any other material. Titanium has a flexibility/elongation factor better than steel. Basically it will flex further before breaking. This is why titanuim bikes tend to have a 'softer' ride than any other material. However manufacturers have overcome this flex by building bikes with bigger diameter tubes allowing for a stiffer frame. But it will still flex further before breaking.

By the way congratulation on a wise choice by going with tubulars. You'll never go back. Just start telling the other 99%.
 
Jun 10, 2009
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Fiemme said:
Before giving everyone a bagging for suggesting you use tubulars instead of crappy clinchers to ride the cobblestones of belguim, try giving it a go. I can guarantee that you will understand everyones comments on the benefits of Tubulars over Clinchers once you have used them. Instead of being the in the 99% catergory of people who use clinchers and having no idea about tubulars, try being the 1% that do not use clinchers and reep the benefits.

You do not seem at all switched on if you use Aussie Bank notes to patch that ripped or split clincher. The simple Toothpaste tube works best, and as you said the size and location of the tear depends on your degree of confidence to ride home, you don't have this issue with tubulars. I also have huge doubts about your ability to change an inner tube faster than someone could change a tubular.

As for the cost of tubulars they are as cheap if not cheaper than using clinchers.

Before giving me a bagging, try:rolleyes: reading what I wrote instead of launching into a tirade.

I'm sure a toothpaste tube would work well as a boot, but I don't need to brush my teeth while out riding. A banknote is much more versatile.

If you can tell me where to buy a good tubular for the price of an inner tube, I'll buy a new wheel set tomorrow. Or were you trying to say tco of tubs was lower than clincher as opposed to cost of carrying a spare?:rolleyes:
 
Apr 14, 2010
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For those saying they use tubulars for training as well as racing, do you carry your spare tyre pre-glued (and with the grease-proof paper) every time you ride? And if so, how long will it last like that before the glue sets? If not, what do you do when out training on tubulars and you flat?
 
Dec 21, 2010
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PCutter said:
For those saying they use tubulars for training as well as racing, do you carry your spare tyre pre-glued (and with the grease-proof paper) every time you ride? And if so, how long will it last like that before the glue sets? If not, what do you do when out training on tubulars and you flat?

Yes, I carry an old track tub (Conti Tempo 22) as my "get me home" tub - it get's me home & is pulled off & replaced with one off the spares pile. The old one goes onto the fix-me pile or tossed, depending on it's condition.

I don't bother with keeping it with tacky glue, there is enough to hold it in place for the ride home, even if it is 60-80km, of course no suicidal bombing of descents or hard cornering....
 
Mar 18, 2009
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@ Fiemme - you made me laugh ... so true.

I just returned from my first outside ride for the season: a 60km ride through snow melt, frost heaves, and pot holes on my 'cross bike. Rode without a PT ... and absolutely loved it! So I am going back to RDV's original proposal: 36 spoke Ambrioso Nemesis rims with no PT hub. Hopefully I'll be riding them by late May!
 
Mar 19, 2009
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elapid said:
@ Fiemme - you made me laugh ... so true.

I just returned from my first outside ride for the season: a 60km ride through snow melt, frost heaves, and pot holes on my 'cross bike. Rode without a PT ... and absolutely loved it! So I am going back to RDV's original proposal: 36 spoke Ambrioso Nemesis rims with no PT hub. Hopefully I'll be riding them by late May!

Yes, you will. ;)
 
Sep 1, 2011
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dsut4392 said:
Before giving me a bagging, try:rolleyes: reading what I wrote instead of launching into a tirade.

I'm sure a toothpaste tube would work well as a boot, but I don't need to brush my teeth while out riding. A banknote is much more versatile.

If you can tell me where to buy a good tubular for the price of an inner tube, I'll buy a new wheel set tomorrow. Or were you trying to say tco of tubs was lower than clincher as opposed to cost of carrying a spare?:rolleyes:

I've been km's from home when some bogan threw a full beer bottle in front of my wheel. This literally ripped my tub to pieces. This has happened on more than one occasion. I could not fathom the idea of going training with only an innertube. Yes running tubulars is less expensive than clinchers as far as I am concerned. And as for the tube of Toothpaste as a boot, it has got to be cheaper than a fiver.
 
PCutter said:
For those saying they use tubulars for training as well as racing, do you carry your spare tyre pre-glued (and with the grease-proof paper) every time you ride? And if so, how long will it last like that before the glue sets? If not, what do you do when out training on tubulars and you flat?

Yes, glue dries in about 15 minutes. Put on preglued spare in the event of a flat, fresh-ish glue and residual on rim stick together, pump up, finish ride. No I don't do any 50 MPH corners, reglue properly when I get home, easy.
 
Jun 10, 2009
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Fiemme said:
I've been km's from home when some bogan threw a full beer bottle in front of my wheel. This literally ripped my tub to pieces. This has happened on more than one occasion. I could not fathom the idea of going training with only an innertube. Yes running tubulars is less expensive than clinchers as far as I am concerned. And as for the tube of Toothpaste as a boot, it has got to be cheaper than a fiver.

If it's full bottles being thrown they're actually trying to be mates, you just need to work on your catching skills:D

But seriously, it's a dangerous world out there, you should probably carry at least two spare tubs, after all you might cut both of them;)

There may come a time when I get a tire cut or torn too badly to ride home, thankfully it hasn't happened yet. If it ever does happen, the roadside assistance I have for my car actually covers me when I'm riding my bike too, though I've not had cause to use it (RACT).

Regarding toothpaste being cheaper than a fiver, you do realise you can still spend the fiver later don't you?:confused:

As for whole of life cost, I'd be interested in seeing the math. Where is it that tubulars save you money? E.g. How do you get ahead buying a Conti GP4000 tubular for $95 vs Conti GP4000 clincher for $54 (for the sake of picking a tyre made in both variants, which also happens to be my clincher of choice - both today's Wiggle price, both 10% off their regular price). Where do you make your $41 back?
 
Sep 1, 2011
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dsut4392 said:
If it's full bottles being thrown they're actually trying to be mates, you just need to work on your catching skills:D

But seriously, it's a dangerous world out there, you should probably carry at least two spare tubs, after all you might cut both of them;)

There may come a time when I get a tire cut or torn too badly to ride home, thankfully it hasn't happened yet. If it ever does happen, the roadside assistance I have for my car actually covers me when I'm riding my bike too, though I've not had cause to use it (RACT).

Regarding toothpaste being cheaper than a fiver, you do realise you can still spend the fiver later don't you?:confused:

As for whole of life cost, I'd be interested in seeing the math. Where is it that tubulars save you money? E.g. How do you get ahead buying a Conti GP4000 tubular for $95 vs Conti GP4000 clincher for $54 (for the sake of picking a tyre made in both variants, which also happens to be my clincher of choice - both today's Wiggle price, both 10% off their regular price). Where do you make your $41 back?
G

GP4000 Tubulars cannot be repaired so I don't use them.
I use Conti Gatorskin Sprinters which out perform GP4000 Clinchers. And yes I have used clinchers and yes I have used GP4000 Tyres and Yes the ride quality of Tubulars is far better than clinchers and also allows for better cornering than GP4000 Clinchers or any clinchers for that matter. The Sprinters are the same price as the GP4000 Clinchers and i don't need the added expense of rim tape, an innertube and tyre levers to remove the clincher. Just $5 worth of tubular glue. Which you could buy for me as you seem to have a spare fiver.

I do sincerely apologise for giving you a bagging. But i have heard all the excuses over the years of how "Good" clinchers are and all the crap from industry trolls about how great clinchers are. Industry trolls seem to believe in the slogan "say it loud enough and long enough and the masses will come". I am one that cannot believe the influence this has had on the cycling public of Australia. It isn't hard to fit tubulars and it isn't hard to repair tubulars and they do allow you to corner better and when you flat they stop the rim from coming in contact with the road and reduce falls. I sincerely hope you try using them one day a realise what you are missing out on.

If you learn to repair the tubulars, even using Conti Competitions at $90 you will easily save the difference over a season of racing and training, as the repaired tyres will become training tyres.

As for catching the beer on one ocasion I did manage to catch a full can of Coke that was thrown at me. As caught I up with the offenders at the next set of lights I poured it out over his car. I then proceeded to get my head kicked in as the three guys in the car jumped out and decided to teach the "Lycra Cladded ******" a lesson. I now train early in the morning as Bogans don't get out of bed until after lunch.
 
Jun 10, 2009
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Fiemme said:
G

GP4000 Tubulars cannot be repaired so I don't use them.
I use Conti Gatorskin Sprinters which out perform GP4000 Clinchers. And yes I have used clinchers and yes I have used GP4000 Tyres and Yes the ride quality of Tubulars is far better than clinchers and also allows for better cornering than GP4000 Clinchers or any clinchers for that matter.

Ride quality of tubulars was not something I disputed. It was the claim that a support car was needed to change a clincher I took issue with.

Fiemme said:
The Sprinters are the same price as the GP4000 Clinchers and i don't need the added expense of rim tape, an innertube and tyre levers to remove the clincher. Just $5 worth of tubular glue. Which you could buy for me as you seem to have a spare fiver.

No worries, want to swap the spare tubular you carry for my spare fiver? :D

Rim tape is a one-off cost, and the 3 wheelsets I have bought most recently have come pre-taped anyway. Tyre levers are also a one off if you need them at all. I have no problems getting the tyre off without them, whether on my road bike (GP4000 on Dura Ace C24 CL) or various mtbs (Conti Mountain King 2.4 tubeless on Stans Crest rim, Maxxis ignitor 2.3 on a tubeless converted Mavic 317, Maxxis Larsen on Sun Ringle DS1 rims etc).

Fiemme said:
I do sincerely apologise for giving you a bagging. But i have heard all the excuses over the years of how "Good" clinchers are and all the crap from industry trolls about how great clinchers are. Industry trolls ...snip

It isn't hard to fit tubulars and it isn't hard to repair tubulars and they do allow you to corner better and when you flat they stop the rim from coming in contact with the road and reduce falls. I sincerely hope you try using them one day a realise what you are missing out on.

If you learn to repair the tubulars, even using Conti Competitions at $90 you will easily save the difference over a season of racing and training, as the repaired tyres will become training tyres.

Apology accepted.

But I still can't let go of the assertions about cost savings which you're not backing up. You're talking about saving money from repairing a tubular, but each time you do so you're using patches and glue, which would have to be at best a marginal cost saving over patching an inner tube. And that's before you get into how long it takes to make the repair.

Sure, you get less pinch flats with tubs if you're racing over cobbles, but in real life I'm not racing let alone on cobbles (apologies for the thread hijack btw) and can't remember the last pinch flat I had on my roadie - it would be quite a number of years ago (more than 4). Yes they happen, but aside from racing (where you can't necessarily see the road or change your line), they're a result of inattention, carelessness or poor bike handling. Flats from shards of glass, nails and staples I've had my fair share of, but they would happen with tubular tyres just the same.

Neither of these sorts of flats are making me throw out my clincher, it's a couple of minutes roadside to swap a tube and reinflate, then a couple of minutes at home to patch the tube for later reuse.

I've have had flats from cut sidewalls (rear once on a gravel road, front once on unknown highway debris (it was dark) riding at the front of a paceline at 30mph (living in UK at the time)) - I kept it upright both times, had insignificant rim damage, and tubular tyres would have suffered the same flat and likewise been for the rubbish bin not training.

Nothing stops you riding a clincher till the rubber is all gone any more than a tubular.

Fiemme said:
As for catching the beer on one ocasion I did manage to catch a full can of Coke that was thrown at me. As caught I up with the offenders at the next set of lights I poured it out over his car. I then proceeded to get my head kicked in as the three guys in the car jumped out and decided to teach the "Lycra Cladded ******" a lesson. I now train early in the morning as Bogans don't get out of bed until after lunch.

:(I have had a full VB thrown at me once, luckily it missed (they were oncoming at about 80km/h), and it was a can not a bottle. Had a soft drink in a maccas cup thrown at me commuting on pacific hwy north of sydney many years ago, emptied my water bottle on the guy's lap when I caught him at the next lights. Would have taken at least two changes of lights for him to get through and he didn't catch up to me again.
Thankfully where I live now, even though bogans are everywhere north of the "flannellette curtain", most of them are friendly. They'll have a verbal go but rarely in an angry way.
 
Jun 10, 2009
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Gaear Grimsrud said:
You one of those people with a life?

:D That's debatable - I used to have enough hours free to tinker in the shed, but now I'd rather be playing with my 7-month old when I get home from work than getting covered in rubber cement.
 
Liquigas will be using tubolar 25 for Gent wevelgem

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