Anybody here a pro on headsets?

[Boeing]

the above FSA is ok but a lighter and stronger solution is to....

well if it is a carbon steer you might want to consider epoxying an alloy steer adapter washer to the inside of the steerer tube. the fork mfg should have that available as they are becoming more and more standard. not only will it hold the star tight, It will also strengthen against potential compression failure from over tightening stem

 

[dsut4392]

the above FSA is ok but a lighter and stronger solution is to....

well if it is a carbon steer you might want to consider epoxying an alloy steer adapter washer to the inside of the steerer tube. the fork mfg should have that available as they are becoming more and more standard. not only will it hold the star tight, It will also strengthen against potential compression failure from over tightening stem

Thanks for that tip. A quick google got me nowhere, but I'll see if I can dig anything up from the supplier I bought the bike from (Ribble) as I doubt I'll get anywhere with Dedacciai themselves.

 

[luckylegs]

Apart from the brand name mine looks identical.

Where are you applying the carbon friction paste? On the outside of the steerer I assume?

If trying it inside the steerer (to stop this bung slipping), be very careful you don't get it inside the bung on the surfaces that wedge against each other. Can make the thing stick together rock solid so it is very hard to remove (don't ask me how I know).

I applied the friction paste inside the steer tube to keep bung from slipping. Didn't apply much, so hopefully no paste got inside the bung parts.

Another trick I didn't try yet is roughing-up the metal bung expanders with file or sandpaper to help keep it in place.

 

[luckylegs]

the above FSA is ok but a lighter and stronger solution is to....

well if it is a carbon steer you might want to consider epoxying an alloy steer adapter washer to the inside of the steerer tube. the fork mfg should have that available as they are becoming more and more standard. not only will it hold the star tight, It will also strengthen against potential compression failure from over tightening stem

That should work, just make sure you are happy with the height of the steer tube before epoxying metal shim as you won't be able cut after.

 

[Master50]

First
Once the headset is properly adjusted the cap and expander plug could be removed as they are no longer intended to be involved with the adjustment. Some weight weenies remove them. The stem is supposed to do hold the final adjustment. If the plug and cap are moving then the stem is loose on the fork tube. Assembly paste is used between the stem and fork tube and torqued to the spec of the stem manufacturer. Assembly paste can be used between the expander and the fork tube as well as could JB weld or epoxy to permanently affix the plug. You can't shorten a fork if you permanently install the plug.

The top cap does provide a small benefit as a stopgap should the stem get loose but it's function in adjusting your headset is related to preload on the bearings. and keeping crud out of the fork as well as to help protect you in a crash. Open tubes can act like a punch if you hit them hard enough and a really good reason to plug your bars ends.

You also need to very carefully check that the bearings are correctly oriented as the cage can interfere with adjustment if placed in the races upside down. I had trouble with a headset that was caused by an upside down retainer in the lower races.

 

[Boeing]

That should work, just make sure you are happy with the height of the steer tube before epoxying metal shim as you won't be able cut after.

no doubt about that. forgot to add that rather important info

thanks

 

[Guttercat]

First
Once the headset is properly adjusted the cap and expander plug could be removed as they are no longer intended to be involved with the adjustment. Some weight weenies remove them. The stem is supposed to do hold the final adjustment. If the plug and cap are moving then the stem is loose on the fork tube. Assembly paste is used between the stem and fork tube and torqued to the spec of the stem manufacturer. Assembly paste can be used between the expander and the fork tube as well as could JB weld or epoxy to permanently affix the plug. You can't shorten a fork if you permanently install the plug.

The top cap does provide a small benefit as a stopgap should the stem get loose but it's function in adjusting your headset is related to preload on the bearings. and keeping crud out of the fork as well as to help protect you in a crash. Open tubes can act like a punch if you hit them hard enough and a really good reason to plug your bars ends.

You also need to very carefully check that the bearings are correctly oriented as the cage can interfere with adjustment if placed in the races upside down. I had trouble with a headset that was caused by an upside down retainer in the lower races.

Awesome. Great info and thank you much.

 

[dsut4392]

That should work, just make sure you are happy with the height of the steer tube before epoxying metal shim as you won't be able cut after.

I don't see the problem. Cutting through a wee little alloy shim would be easy enough with a hacksaw, let alone a Dremel (TM)