Alpe, your experiences sound wonderful. That is the great side of mountaineering isn't it? So much out there to climb for the sheer beauty.
To be honest, there are some good and reputable guides..not all are cads. Before my hubby would allow anyone to go he would do at least one or more climbs here in the States or similar to get to know the clients..he took no one that wasn't capable.
Mostly though for the most part he would prefer to guide on alternative peaks, AMA Dablam, Manaslu, even Mera Pk ..smaller but better actual climbing.
To be fair to Scott Fischer, he was flamboyant and a showy type who made some poor decisions. I was around him a few times in K-du...he treated people fairly but in that biz you err on the side of extreme safety...or don't come back.
I would put the blame more on those 'guides' or companies who hire ill-equipped staff or make their money on pushing the 'Everest experience' using the mts name as a way to pitch their greedy business, while treating their employees shamelessly without regard.
It's long been called the 'Everest highway'...sums it up.
Doesn't seem likely to change much in the future ...
btw, most guides don't get rich doing this.
The bigger companies do fine, but there are better ways to make a living...and just go climb for your own pleasure instead of babysitting others..
To be honest, there are some good and reputable guides..not all are cads. Before my hubby would allow anyone to go he would do at least one or more climbs here in the States or similar to get to know the clients..he took no one that wasn't capable.
Mostly though for the most part he would prefer to guide on alternative peaks, AMA Dablam, Manaslu, even Mera Pk ..smaller but better actual climbing.
To be fair to Scott Fischer, he was flamboyant and a showy type who made some poor decisions. I was around him a few times in K-du...he treated people fairly but in that biz you err on the side of extreme safety...or don't come back.
I would put the blame more on those 'guides' or companies who hire ill-equipped staff or make their money on pushing the 'Everest experience' using the mts name as a way to pitch their greedy business, while treating their employees shamelessly without regard.
It's long been called the 'Everest highway'...sums it up.
Doesn't seem likely to change much in the future ...
btw, most guides don't get rich doing this.
The bigger companies do fine, but there are better ways to make a living...and just go climb for your own pleasure instead of babysitting others..