Giro di Barmaher
Stage 13 Modena to Padua 182km
Like many Giri in this competition, we are heading northwards towards the Dolomites. After a tough ITT yesterday into Bologna, GC riders will use today as an opportunity to recuperate. The second weekend is when Grand Tours typically start to get really tough. There will be no heroics today. Attackers have a few opportunities to attack in the last 50km, so there is a chance for a brave rider to take the day. But like almost all my sprint stages, I offer hope, but not too much, and we should see another high speed bunch sprint in Padua.
We need to get from Bologna to within striking distance of the Dolomites, so why not pick the two prettiest cities in the area, and go through a very pretty national park that inspired Percy Shelley to reach for his pen and served as a retirement home for Petrarch? Especially when this park has some hills that will help the stage distinguish itself from a humdrum transitional stage. So all set for a bit of fun. We should see an interesting last 90 minutes here, which is probably the most one can expect in a flat stage in week 2 of a Grand Tour.
Riders will have a brief transfer from Bologna to Modena for the start of this transitional stage. We will leave the region of Emilia Romagna and travel into Veneto, traversing the Po valley and reaching Veneto, within touching distance of some very high mountains. As we can see here, the hills near the end are steep enough. A Category 3, a category 4 and an uncategorised bump come in quick succession. However, there is a 20km pan-flat run-in to the line in Padua, so it will be difficult to keep the pack at bay.
Climbs
Cat 3. Colle Euganie 340m altitude 4.5km @ 7.1%
Cat 4. Castelnuovo 293m altitude 3.3km @ 7.9%
Modena has been selected for its beauty, but also so that we can pay homage to the town’s car manufacturing tradition. An ancient town, it is known as "the capital of engines", since the factories of the famous Italian sports car makers Ferrari, De Tomaso, Lamborghini, Pagani and Maserati are, or were, located here and all, except Lamborghini, have headquarters in the city or nearby. The university of Modena, is the second oldest in Italy, and sixth oldest in the world.
Riders will roll out from the famous bell tower (Torre della Ghirlandina), which along with the cathedral and the piazza, are another UNESCO World Heritage site.
Riders will roll through the Po valley, and then hit the Euganean hills, which form a regional park, and will provide the biggest spectacle of the day beside the start and finish (both on and off the bike).
The Euganean Hills have been celebrated for their picturesque beauty and their hot springs. Here, at Arquà, which now bears his name attached to it, Petrarch found peace and harmony towards the end of his life. He discovered the village in 1369; there, he stated in his letter to posterity, "I have built me a house, small, but pleasant and decent, in the midst of slopes clothed with vines and olives,"—a house that may be seen there today.
The Euganean hills, like an archipelago of steep-sided wooded islands rising from the perfectly flat agricultural plain, inspired the setting of Percy Bysshe Shelley's Lines Written Among the Euganean Hills; Shelley likens the hill he has found himself upon, at first to an island in "the deep wide sea of Misery", then he sees that
Beneath is spread like a green sea
The waveless plain of Lombardy,
Bounded by the vaporous air,
Islanded by cities fair—
which brings his thoughts to Venice "thou hast been/Ocean's child, and then his queen;/Now is come a darker day," and finally to a wish for an idyllic retreat.
Vaporous air might be a bit rich, but sprinters should be struggling for breath over these climbs. But like I say, it should come (more or less) back together for the finish in Padua.
Though under an hour from Venice, Padua seems a world away with its medieval marketplaces, Fascist-era facades and hip student population. As a medieval city-state and home to Italy’s second-oldest university, Padua challenged both Venice and Verona for regional hegemony. A series of extraordinary fresco cycles recalls this golden age – including in Giotto’s remarkable Cappella degli Scrovegni, Menabuoi’s heavenly gathering in the Baptistry and Titian’s St Anthony in the Scoletta del Santo. For the next few centuries Padua and Verona challenged each other for dominance over the Veneto plains. But Venice finally settled the matter by occupying Padua permanently in 1405.
As a strategic military-industrial centre, Padua became a parade ground for Mussolini speeches, an Allied bombing target and a secret Italian Resistance hub (at its university).
We will finish in front of the Duomo. Because it looks very nice.
Man of the Stage
For five centuries the name of Palladio has been synonymous with architecture. Born in Padua on 30 November 1508, Andrea Palladio designed villas and bridges in the Veneto countryside, town palaces and theatres in Vicenza, and churches and convents in Venice. After his death in 1580 his works and his famous treatise, Four Books of Architecture, strongly influenced the architecture of Northern Europe, from Great Britain to Russia, before crossing the ocean to become a model for public buildings and country residences from the Americas to Australia.
Andrea Palladio gave his name to an entire style of architecture, Palladianism, whose most obvious features – simple lines, satisfying symmetry and mathematical proportions – were derived from the architecture of antiquity and particularly that of Rome.
We will pass some of his villas during this stage, which are collectively a UNECSO World Heritage site.
This man was another truly great Italian.
Munch for the Bunch
In my opinion, this is truly the most wonderful part of Italy, if not the world for food. Veneto and Emilia-Romagna are choc-a-bloc with world-famous cheeses, desserts, vinegars, wines, cured meats and main meals.
But I have decided to go for something a bit more rustic.
The cotechino is a charcuterie product famous in Padua, similar to salami, but requiring cooking; usually it is boiled at low heat for about four hours. Its name comes from cotica (rind), but it may take different names in the different production areas. According to tradition, it is served with lentils on New Year's Eve, because lentils—due to their shape—are 'credited' to bring money for the coming year.
For good luck, we are going to serve both with polenta, which has historically been the staple of northern Italian diets.
This trio (cotechino, polenta and lentils) can be found in many restaurants in Padua. An optional glass of Montegrande Colli Euganei Cabernet will be offered to the riders, but I doubt the GC boys will partake. Apart from Purito.