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Race wheel depth advice

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Jun 19, 2009
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Exactly. Those Eastons and most other super deep rims are happiest in a straight line under ideal wind conditions. Can't imagine anyone suggesting a 90mm deep wheel set for dual purpose RR/TT, maybe the rear but not the front.

Yes, but if you lack any deep rims and want to use them for both; odds are you will be 90 percent road racing. Get some shallower Zipps and lose another couple hundred grams. You'll get your mileage out of them and better use/$$. Then buy some a used disk from someone for your rear, cheap.
 
Jul 24, 2009
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ImmaculateKadence said:
Are those wheels fairly new? I've always gone straight for Mavic and not very familiar with HED.

HED came up with 23mm wide rims and they called this new aluminium extrusion "C2" (Clincher version 2?). The theory being that 23mm tyres on existing 19-21 mm rims caused the tyre to bulge out from the rim, giving a profile sort of like a lightbulb.

This is supposed to be bad for aero, but apparently the new shape also gives better handling and lower rolling resistance too.

The Bastognes that you mentioned use the new C2 rim. All reviewers seem to love the feel but the are very rare in NZ, never seen, let alone tried, them myself. :(

The price is on the high-side for a training wheel (OEM Shimano wheels are cheap and decent) and the rim depth is a little on the low side for a racing wheel. I don't quite know where they fit in the big picture.
 
Oct 29, 2009
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ihavenolimbs said:
HED came up with 23mm wide rims and they called this new aluminium extrusion "C2" (Clincher version 2?). The theory being that 23mm tyres on existing 19-21 mm rims caused the tyre to bulge out from the rim, giving a profile sort of like a lightbulb.

This is supposed to be bad for aero, but apparently the new shape also gives better handling and lower rolling resistance too.

The Bastognes that you mentioned use the new C2 rim. All reviewers seem to love the feel but the are very rare in NZ, never seen, let alone tried, them myself. :(

The price is on the high-side for a training wheel (OEM Shimano wheels are cheap and decent) and the rim depth is a little on the low side for a racing wheel. I don't quite know where they fit in the big picture.

Thanks for the response. The bulge sounds odd when compared to what I'm use to riding, but if it increases handling and lowers resistance, I would give them a try. Aero wheels with much depth aren't really necessary in my case, as I'm not a serious road racer. I'll race some road throughout the year, but I mainly stick to XC racing. I would use these wheels primarily for large non-race events and a few crits. The crits are why the stallion build appeals to me. If I'm not going aero, the stiffness will be nice in the closing sprint.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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Oldman said:
Yes, but if you lack any deep rims and want to use them for both; odds are you will be 90 percent road racing. Get some shallower Zipps and lose another couple hundred grams. You'll get your mileage out of them and better use/$$. Then buy some a used disk from someone for your rear, cheap.

I wasn't asking for advice, respond to the OP. I would never recommend prebuilt Zipps, but their rims I do like for custom builds. Adding a used rear disk to the quiver is a good idea though. All this doesn't matter anyway, seems that cabmab just signed up to ask about a $2k wheel set, then never came back for the for the advice. Turned into a wheel builders convention, then about HED somehow tricking people that 3mm wider rims are the best thing cheese whiz, both of which have their own threads.
 
Feb 1, 2010
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Bustedknuckle said:
The OP was looking for a wheelset to do both RR and TT. Maybe a 60/90 would be a good combo for him, or 60/60. I don't think either would make a huge difference unless it's really windy.

Altho no fan of Zipp, the 808 is actually 82mm...22mm, less than a CM in depth, when compared to the 60.

I'd love to see some more people comment on the 60/90 v. 60/60 option. I'm debating between a set of HED Stinger 6's, or a Stinger 6/9. Specifically, do people think that a 6/9 setup would be a versatile enough to have it be one's sole all-around racing wheelset? The combo weighs 1411g in comparison to the 6/6 which weighs 1326. The HED rep who i posed the question to had this to say:

"The only advantages to using S6 front and rear are that the wheelset is a little lighter, and a little less geeky looking. S9 on the rear will make you go faster (or use less watts, since we’re talking road racing, not TT). S4 on the front would be if you are obsessive about weight, or know that you’ll be riding in decent winds (12mph or more)."
 
Mar 19, 2009
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RideFaster said:
I'd love to see some more people comment on the 60/90 v. 60/60 option. I'm debating between a set of HED Stinger 6's, or a Stinger 6/9. Specifically, do people think that a 6/9 setup would be a versatile enough to have it be one's sole all-around racing wheelset? The combo weighs 1411g in comparison to the 6/6 which weighs 1326. The HED rep who i posed the question to had this to say:

"The only advantages to using S6 front and rear are that the wheelset is a little lighter, and a little less geeky looking. S9 on the rear will make you go faster (or use less watts, since we’re talking road racing, not TT). S4 on the front would be if you are obsessive about weight, or know that you’ll be riding in decent winds (12mph or more)."

I'd do the Stinger 6 front and rear, simply because it is more versatile. Pick up a used rear disk for the handful of TT's per year and that's it. I run 58's front and rear so when the road season is over I rip the slicks off and glue on some knobbys for CX, same wheelset.

You don't subscribe to all that marketing BS speak of a certain wheel will make you faster, save watts, or do your dishes, ...do you? Slight variations from wheel to wheel isn't going to make you faster, only your legs and lungs.