recommendations for road wheels

[Christian Schneider]

I am looking to purchase new wheels, but there are so many on the market!
I would like a sub 1600 gram set, clincher. They are going on a Dura Ace 7900equiped Colango. I don't need race wheels, but would like something that helps me get an aero advantage. For everyday long rides in a variety of conditions. Would like to spend less then $1300....any suggestions?
I have American Classics on one bike and older Dura Ace wheels on another.
I am considering: HED Ardennes, Shimano 7850, Mavic R-SYS, Fulcrum 1.

 

[Alfred E. Neuman]

For the type of riding you're talking about doing, I'd stay away from the R-Sys. A little too delicate for an everyday training wheel, and the CF spokes make replacement difficult.

If you're in the states, take a close look at Neuvation wheels. They build up some good hoops at low prices.

 

[steelciocc]

Mike Garcia @ oddsandendos.com

Check out Mike Garcia at oddsandendos.com. He'll "interview" you about your riding style, the type of roads you ride on, performance objectives, etc. and then build you a great set of wheels for less than half of what you're willing to spend.

I have four sets of Mike's wheels and have been extremely pleased with them.

 

[Treddly]

why not have a crack at building your own rather than buying something that is probably overpriced, underperforming and may not suit your needs to match your body type, riding style and performance outputs... the late great Sheldon Brown has a fine web page on Wheelbuilding and Why to start the process.
cheers

 

[Pignone Fisso]

Like "Treddy", I think building your own wheelset will prove very rewarding. With experience you'll be building great wheels. Perhaps not as fancy as many on the market, but that's something you will appreciate when it is time to tune them...you'll be able to do it yourself!

 

[Clayton]

What would be the cost of setting yourself up to build and maintain your own wheels? Surely you could buy a set from a master wheel builder made to suit your needs and it would be better value for money than setting yourself up. I know I am not much of a DIY guy so if I built a set I would be stoked if they span around let alone gave any sort of decent performance

From all reports I would have a close look at the Fulcrums. Although my favourites would be Zip 404's (Ooops!! there goes the budget)

 

[Alfred E. Neuman]

Although my favourites would be Zip 404's (Ooops!! there goes the budget)

Not necessarily.

Neuvation and ROL both build with Zip rims (not the high zoot dimpled variety). You can get 90% if the 303 or 404 performance for around half the money.

 

[Master50]

Shamal

There are so many good wheel makers but my favourites are Campy Shamal. Strong enough for every day, about as light as Non-Carbon wheels get, Roll better on steel bearings than most with ceramic, available with Shimano cassette body. 2009 are also tubeless compatible too.
Semi Aero and available in High Zoot gold or Titanium finish and you can get ceramic bearings in them too. Their 2009 bearings are rust resistant enough to use heavy oil for lubrication. I have been riding on Campy wheels since the Nucleon came out. 1 broken spoke on the Nucleon and even after a run in with a pedal on the Shamals they went on without a wobble. I replaced those 3 bent spokes in 1/2 an hour right back to true.
Great wheels and a pound lighter than wheels built with record hubs and Mavic MA-40 rims.

 

[lampre]

There are so many good wheel makers but my favourites are Campy Shamal. Strong enough for every day, about as light as Non-Carbon wheels get, Roll better on steel bearings than most with ceramic, available with Shimano cassette body. 2009 are also tubeless compatible too.
Semi Aero and available in High Zoot gold or Titanium finish and you can get ceramic bearings in them too. Their 2009 bearings are rust resistant enough to use heavy oil for lubrication. I have been riding on Campy wheels since the Nucleon came out. 1 broken spoke on the Nucleon and even after a run in with a pedal on the Shamals they went on without a wobble. I replaced those 3 bent spokes in 1/2 an hour right back to true.
Great wheels and a pound lighter than wheels built with record hubs and Mavic MA-40 rims.

Eurus and Zonda are also wery nice wheels at a lower price level. Top quality, Ok aerodynamic. (Or you can select one of the Fulcrum mid-range wheels if you don't want to mix shimano and campa labels).

 

[schism]

I have r sys on one of my bikes they are great. Unfortunately mavic currently have my front wheel (due to manufacturing/design fault) and I won't see the replacement until the end of the month or mid april. I did get a free set of aksium from them.

 

[rcotto]

i currently roll Spinergy Stealth PBO's. the spoke technologie allows for a plush ride and they're bullet proof. i ride mine daily around pothole ridden metro detroit and i hit a goose last season head-on w/my front wheel @ 30mph (yeah, it was grizzley for both of us) but the wheels stayed true with no cracks in the carbon (keep in mind i'm also 200lb). carbon aero rims, 44mm, white or black spokes, all w/in your budget.

 

[DanBurros]

Ksyriums SL's are great wheels, and can be had at a decent price if you look around, or have a good shop you like to frequent. I love the ride, and the instant acceleration they have. I ride a Serotta steel frame, so the ride may be harsher on some other frames/frame materials (Maybe? Just speculating.), but I've never "loved" everything about a wheelset more.

 

[cody251]

I would like a sub 1600 gram set, clincher. I don't need race wheels, but would like something that helps me get an aero advantage. For everyday long rides in a variety of conditions. Would like to spend less then $1300....any suggestions?

YES! www.williamscycling.com

Based out of Stockton, Cali. They are priced well, and owner Keith Williams is super cool (he usually answers the phone). Great deal and also very durable/high quality. I have the System 19, the super-light climbing wheel. I ride them everyday I ride and have about 3k on them. I periodically put them on the truing stand and have yet needed to tweak them. I'm a 165lb rider. I have several friends and teammates that ride the System 30's, several have 5k+ and two seasons of racing and they are rock solid. Also, one of them uses the beefed up 30x wheels for Cross racing with great results. I have bent one sys 19 wheel but that was when it came loose from the top of my car on the freeway at 70mph and was hit dead on by a truck.

The System 30's fit your needs perfectly and at 1540g for the set, they are light! Aero wheels, hybrid ceramic bearings, and durability with the combo of price and weight, you can not beat them. Cyclingnews gives them great reviews.

Another option is the new carbon clincher the System 38. 1596g, hybrid ceramic bearings, and $999.

I know I sound like a Williams rep but I really just have lots of experience with them and have and great results.

Good luck and let us know what you choose.

-Cody

 

[Matt.Booth]

I have a Pair of Fulcrum Racing 1s, awesome set of wheels. Areo Light and great for climbing. They are campag so bacially the technolgy is some of the best in the world. Bearings are smooth and the rims are rigid. The only downfall would be the braking surface. They do get all the crap off the brake pads rather quickly. Might as well be honest.

 

[Flamme Rouge]

I have a pair of Campys Eurus wheels and cannot praise them enough.
They're great for everyday training and absolutely excellent for climbing.
Although I'm not sure you will have compatibility problems with your DuraAce equipped bike.
I'll also recommend HED Bastonge wheels. I've not ridden them but several teammates do and swear by them.

 

[Alfred E. Neuman]

I'll also recommend HED Bastonge wheels. I've not ridden them but several teammates do and swear by them.

Second on the Bastongne. And also the Ardennes. Both well under his price point and weight requirements. Only drawback might be the 23mm rim width if he's using other wheels as well, could be caliper issues.

 

[Coz Boogie]

Ahhh...the search for the elusive "perfect wheel". As the OP said there are so many choices out there.

Here's my take:

1. Learn to build and true your own wheels. I built up all of my rims up until about 5 years ago. It is a very rewarding process. If you can also trouble shoot and true your rims you'll be your own best mechanic.

2. Some websites offer demo programs wherein they'll ship you out a pair of wheels to try for a day. If you've come to a decision but just aren't sure consider the demo program.

3. My LBS will also let you try out rims too...see if stores in your area offer it.

4. Ask other riders.

5. Some girls you date and some you marry. Make sure you're getting what you really need. There are a lot of sexy wheels out there but they are impractical for everyday use. You don't need to put 404's on a commuter.

6. Google.

7. There have been some good answers here so take it all in and let us know what you end up doing.

late,
Coz

 

[Quijibo]

well if you want a bit of an aero advantage, the R-SYS is the last wheelset you should be looking at.

Easton makes a terrific wheel, the EA90 aero would be one to look at.

 

[Halvor]

I recommend the Fulcrum wheels, they're really nice, but take a look at Fulcrum Racing 3 too. Racing 3 and 1 are almost the same wheels (aerodynamics and weight), but they are very different in price! ATM on Wiggle you can get Racing 3 for 350?-ish, Racing one for 615-ish!!! Good luck choosing wheels

 

[jezzery the jester]

Get yourself a pair of hand built wheels.
Use rims , hubs and spokes that suit your style ,your weight and the condition of the roads you ride.
Save yourself some dollars get some hand built wheels bespoke to your needs built by your local wheel builder,time to forge a relationship with said person.
Ive had the privillage of riding many wheel and tyre combinations ,have found most factory wheels harsh, as in unforgiving.
Most radial front wheels flex too much laterally after 1000 miles.
Current set up self built ,mavic open pros 36h on d/ace7700 sapim db spokes X3 with michlin hi lite pro 23c.
I do watch air pressures usally 95 psi rear and 90 front,the quiet roads in my neck of the woods can not be described as smooooth.
Good luck to you.

 

[parawolf]

Out of the box; Fulcrum, Reynolds or Easton.

Custom made:

Shimano 7850/7900 hubset with DT competition spokes to brass nipples with mavic open pro double eyelit rims. Radial front, 3x rear.

Or for bling custom:

Edge Composite rims (1.38 or 1.68; pick clincher or tubular)
Tune Hubs
Sapim CX-Ray; built same as above.

Here endth the lesson.

 

[pharaonic]

My wheels

A few posters have mentioned the Campag wheels. I'll add that I think they're fantastic.

I've got older Sciroccos and Zondas and the newer (alu spoke) Eurus. My faves are the Sciroccos (very strong, stiff and great value) and Eurus (stiffer and lighter). I found the Zondas a bit flexy - I notice the rear wheel rubbing the brake when I'm out of the saddle. The new model might be better (seems to be similar to the older Eurus).

One feature of the Campag wheels (and the Fulcrums) that set them apart from other manufacturers is the spoking on the rear wheel - they have twice as many spokes on the drive side (where there is less dishing). This evens out the spoke tension and reduces the chance of spoke breakage. Seems to me all wheels should be built like this.

 

[parawolf]

One feature of the Campag wheels (and the Fulcrums) that set them apart from other manufacturers is the spoking on the rear wheel - they have twice as many spokes on the drive side (where there is less dishing). This evens out the spoke tension and reduces the chance of spoke breakage. Seems to me all wheels should be built like this.

Does nothing to even out the spoke tension. You would run the same tension on the NDS or DS regardless.

It's marketing guff; just like zircal or whatever Mavic make up to fudge over their massive alu spokes are not that aero on their very expensive wheelsets.

 

[pharaonic]

Spoke tensions....

Does nothing to even out the spoke tension. You would run the same tension on the NDS or DS regardless.

It's marketing guff; just like zircal or whatever Mavic make up to fudge over their massive alu spokes are not that aero on their very expensive wheelsets.

I beg to differ, at least on the spoke tension question. A rim is kept in its horizontal location by the balance of the lateral forces applied by the spokes on the two sides of the wheel. The spokes on the DS are less dished than those on the NDS. This means that a single spoke on the DS has to be under a greater tension than one on the NDS if their lateral forces are to balance (as is the case on normally laced wheels - just grab a handful of spokes and squeeze to see this). By putting a greater number of spokes on DS of the wheel the tension in the DS and NDS spokes can be brought closer together.

As to what happens when the wheel is under load - that's anyone's guess...

 

[Quicksilver]

Go for HEd Ardennes or Fulcrum racing zero, Mavic to agriculturial, Shimano no style.